topofmurrayhill Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 Suprised that it's that far into the pillar!A little surprising and definitely freaky-cool looking. If you think about it, this isn't so different from paraffin shrinkage. A paraffin pillar would make a sinkhole this shape and at least as deep. The tortoise shell palm just crusts over as it cools to form this whacky void instead. Break through with 2 or 3 holes as the pillar cools off and you can easily fill it with wax.It's just a little price to pay for the unique aesthetic. The starburst and feather are supposed to be less prone to voids. They also have a higher melt point, so I expect there might be other interesting differences to be found in the way they work. I ordered some feather palm to check out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judy, USMC Posted March 18, 2010 Share Posted March 18, 2010 If you think about it, this isn't so different from paraffin shrinkage. That's exactly what I was thinking. The 4786 I work with definitely shrinks and forms a conical void in my containers. Of course I help it along by spinning-the-wick once a top semi-solid layer of about 1/8" forms. Hmmm, have to play with some glass glow next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted March 18, 2010 Author Share Posted March 18, 2010 The LX 20 NST2 saga continues.End of burn 12. All burns have been 3 hours.No sign of hitting any air pockets. I think this is one of the candles that I excavated to see what the void was like. I dumped all those pieces of wax back in the pour pot, leaving a big open space. My concern is that such a big plug of repour wax could form cavities of its own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 Burn 13 for LX 20 NST2.The other photo shows holes in the bottom of a tortoise shell palm candle for filling the void that forms with this wax. The final poke and second pour is done after all the wax has solidified and the candle is just about cooled off. Some wax has also been cleared from around the wick, allowing it to be cut short of the bottom of the candle.If you're careful not to nick the wick, something like an exacto craft knife is handy for poking through the wax crusts. The pieces of wax can be allowed to fall in and take up a little of the space.I'm finding that the repour wax can form a void of its own near the center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrbd Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 what's this one wicked with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 what's this one wicked with?There are two of them, LX 18 & 20 NST2 made with flat-top molds. I was curious how much the flat top would change how the candles start off.I'm still fiddling around to see how the burns could be more consistent, especially with CSN. I don't like this business with flames getting small and the tips of wicks shriveling up. It's not a pleasing sort of burn quality and doesn't give you as much control over wicking for how you want the candle to burn down.For some reason, my original LX never did that once it got going. I wonder if it's because I didn't trim it at first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrbd Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 There is so much that goes on that I just don't understand. I am taken a break and waiting for your posts . I recently burned two candles with the HTP 126 one is still burning the other blew out on one not even an inch down . I wrecked the hell out of it so I don't know what happened. Then I burned 3 more one with CDN 10 burned ok until it started melting the sides at the end scent was great . 2 with cdn 12 still going not melting the sides. Go figure. Anyway I will keep reading and see what happens with yours. Thanks for trying the CSN since they will be easy to get my hands on. Do you find they curl as much as the CDNs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted March 19, 2010 Author Share Posted March 19, 2010 (edited) I haven't tested the American wicks at all so far. Of the German ones, the Wedo wicks seem to be the way to go. LX NST2 has held up the best. CSN has not been as robust, but they both seem to work way better than CDN. I don't think it would hurt to get your hands on some CSN and try it out.Truth be told, every wick I've tried seems to have at least a little trouble in this wax. Offline I've puttered around with less fragrance and different fragrance. The exact behavior varies with the FO, but the overall pattern has been the same. I think it's mostly about the composition plus maybe the MP of the wax.I've gotten some feather palm in and am curious about whether the wicks work any differently in it. I've also picked up some spooled CSN so that I don't have to be melting wax coatings off sample wick assemblies.This wax sure is pretty when you nail the pour. The candles below are about as perfect as I can get it to look. Edited March 19, 2010 by topofmurrayhill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrbd Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 This wax sure is pretty when you nail the pour. The candles below are about as perfect as I can get it to look.very nice . great job ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted March 20, 2010 Author Share Posted March 20, 2010 Continued in Tortoise Shell Palm Testing 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.