Is Glass Glow a One Pour wax?

[hsteveberry]

For those of you experienced with Glass Glow Palm, Is it really a one pour wax? Or will I need to wreck my containers in a similar fashion as we do pillars?

Thanks

Steve

[RichardLOZ]

Steve

You will need to "wreck" your containers to eliminate any possible cavities that have formed as the wax is cooling. After than you can either do a repour to cover the wrecked top or use your heat gun to smooth the tops.

Personally I prefer the look of a repour as the heat gun changes the crystal structure of the wax and in my opinion it does not look as nice, however having said that I do usually heat gun as it is generally easier than doing a repour.

[Stella1952]

Ditto to Richard's reply.

[hsteveberry]

Thanks Richard. I thought that might be the case even though they claim it is single pour.

I m trying my first Glass Glow containers today. I'll post some pics of the results (if they aren't a disaster).

Steve

[Stella1952]

Steve, try not to be TOO horrified at what wrecking does to the surface *faint* - try to be neat and gently level the worst of the boulders & boogers left behind before heatgunning. It'll all come out fine. Have fun!!

[RichardLOZ]

Steve

Good luck with it Just remember that this is only the start of playing with the Glass Glow. Now you are going to get to the most frustrating part - the wicking. How easy of difficult that is will be dependant on your containers. Me being the stubborn type of course make it more difficult for myself than it has to be.

I hate double wicking and I was determined to get glass glow working in a 10 oz apothecary jar. needless to say many many pounds of wax later I still dont have it working, so I changed containers to one about 2.75 inches in diameter, and what do you know it sure works much better.

I am still not giving up on the apothecary, just may have to go up to the 16 oz jar to give some depth so that the sides have a chance to catch up. I think that the 10 oz is just not deep enough to allow the hang up to catch up.

Good luck with it and let us know how it is going for you.

[Candybee]

The one pour wax refers to waxes that need a second pour because they form a wide sinking well around the wick as it cools. So a second pour is required to level the candle.

Palm wax is a true one pour wax as you don't need a second or even third pour as some other waxes to fill the well. The wax will cool and have a level top.

However, because of the crystalization process that occurs as palm wax cools it forms air pockets inside the candle and these must be released as already mentioned by Richard and Stella. Thats where your wrecking the candle comes in.

I prefer to heat gun the top as I make many cases of candles at a time and doing a repour is problematic for me. I find the tops look fine when heat gunned.

Edited March 5, 2010 by Candybee

[Stella1952]

I make many cases of candles at a time and doing a repour is problematic for me. I find the tops look fine when heat gunned

I agree. When I tried the second pour, it takes a mighty steady hand not to splash or get droplets on the inside of the glass, which would need to be heatgunned off anyway. I also had problems keeping the second pour within the confines of the first so as not to create a pour line visible from the side. While I DO prefer the natural crystal pattern to the heatgunned crystal pattern, as soon as the candle makes a FMP, the showier crystals are back, so it all ends up good.

[Candybee]

While I DO prefer the natural crystal pattern to the heatgunned crystal pattern, as soon as the candle makes a FMP, the showier crystals are back, so it all ends up good.

I've noticed that too. Not just after I burned my candle but also in my wax meltor as leftover wax cooled the beautiful patterns come back. So I don't worry about leaving palm wax in my meltor to reheat it again later. But I do add more new wax into my meltor when reheating the old.

I have also seen palm lose some of its pattern if I reheat the wax from a scented palm candle I am remelting. This happened to me when I remelted a few candles down so I could rewick them. When I did that I also added a small amount of fragrance oil at around 2%. The candles I was remelting already had 6% FO in them. I think the extra oil may be the culprit but I'm not sure. Its possible the FO already in the wax could have also reacted when reheated causing the crystal patterns to not form as well.

[hsteveberry]

Here they are. My first GG Palm containers. I like the pattern but must improve my cooling methods. It looks like the bottom of one and the top of the other didn't cool at the same rate.

[Stella1952]

VERY PRETTY, Steve. In both candles, the ones on the right cooled too quickly on the bottom, but I didn't notice anything amiss with the tops.

GOOD JOB!! :yay:

[Candybee]

I found it helped me to put my candles on cooling racks so the bottoms came out the same as the rest of the candle. They look pretty good for your first try.