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Oh, great. Yet another wax to try.


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About the worst thing a wax company could do is change a formula sold under the same name and not make that very clear. Given how much that can mess up your candles, I wouldn't be shy about calling that fraud, and all the more so if they won't admit they changed it. Ignoring a small customer's issues is bad, but over 1000 lbs? Not sure if the legal costs would be worth it, but they certainly should replace that wax.

I have to agree that they do use too much hype. Especially for a raw material. Botanical oil I see all over, though it still seems like that should refer to EOs and not vegetable oil. Molecular Blueprinting, though? I'd think that meant doing chromatography or something to ensure consistent amounts of different components (molecular weights or crystal types). But, they don't say, so it might as well read "All our waxes have That Special Something!".

Proof is in the trying, though. I bought a small amount of Advanced and it's OK, I'll probably try the new one, too. Unlike some hyped products, it should be pretty clear in short order whether it's any better. Took a half dozen candles and a read of this board to figure that Advanced is fine if you want it to look more like paraffin, and be finicky about fragrances.

That "fragrance program" bit is so frustrating, though. They purport to give you help about what fragrances work, but then you find it only applies to companies selling fragrance wholesale. Thanks, NGI...

Anyone had any luck getting suppliers to give CB-Advanced compatibility information? (even if none will say what mfgrs they use)

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CBX... That's my new proposed abbreviation
PERFECT!! :yay: Thanks, Top, for the heads up on who's got it in stock!! I hope whenever someone finds it in stock at other suppliers, they'll post it here so we can all get our hot little paws on some to test...:)
...by the case...

Aztec has it in 5 lb. samples, too. Last on the list...

http://www.candlemaking.com/store/5lb-Sample-Size-P2057C42.aspx

Edited by Stella1952
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Anyone had any luck getting suppliers to give CB-Advanced compatibility information? (even if none will say what mfgrs they use)

I use CB-135 so my first stop at any supplier is their wax section. If they carry 135 I'm more comfortable ordering samples from them hoping that they test in the wax they sell.

At one time Candle Science was testing their oils in 135 ... but that information has been removed from the site. Since they provide info on how to make a soy candle using 464 I would assume that may be what they are using for testers now.

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Yeah, that's why I was specific. Personally I'll wait for someone to offer a 10 lb bag.

Too bad The Candlemaker's Store isn't selling EcoSoya.

WSP has a 10# sample.

It's listed as 0.20 sample for $17.95

"0.2 sample is approximately 10 lbs."

http://wholesalesuppliesplus.com/StoreCategory.aspx?CatalogID=3&GroupID=319&CategoryID=494&CategoryName=Soy+Wax

(3rd one down)

Edited by CareBear
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EAC in Pittsburgh, PA has it in stock now. I am probably going to get 10#tomorrow:)

https://earlyamericancandlesupplies.com/wax/soy-wax/eco-soya/ecosoya-cb-xcel/prod_1397.html

IDK about the price though:( For 50# of CB-excel it's $1.35 vs $1.07 for C3

i tried pouring my C3 when it became the consistency of thick syrup and no more blooming problems. My wax colors are bright and shiny and no annoying white spots.:yay: I am thrilled.

So, now I don't know if it is worth paying the extra money for the same look and ?who knows how the throw will be.

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Got 2 test ones poured. Used 1.5 oz per pound( i know high but testing higher loads) I like to keep it around 1 oz pp but tech specs say it will hold 12% so wanted to try a bit more than usual.

Used a 12 oz status jar and a 16 oz mason. Heated to 170 poured at abot 130 so far cooling open air it is 70 degrees in the room. Heated glass to 115 degrees. Used lilac from Just scent.

The container blend def. feels a bit more oily than c3. Coloring did take a few more drops of liquid than c3. Pics to follow after they cool a bit.

Started wuith HTP 104.

i know its a jumble running on about 2 hours sleep..... Trying to get all the data out there.

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Colling openly at 70Degrees produced a MINOR crack around wick. No other cracks in top. Top is a touch ( i mean very little rough nothing that you would notice unless you are eyeballing it.)

Side wall adhession is great. Have 2 tiny frosting marks( about the size of a pen point in several places)

Cold through is about the same as c3 and straight parrafin ( just scent lilac) Have not burned it yet.

Biggest thing im looking for cooling like it was is a hidden void. Will get it test burned when i get back today.

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Ok sry about the pics camera hit the floor and no longer works......Anyways. Test burn went well htp 104 looks to be a tad to big for the mason jar (16 oz).

The wax solidifies smooth. There were no hidden voids so far. One odd thing i did notice is, the underside of the container totally frosted. There is MINOR frosting on the candls nothing abnormal.

Hot through could be a bit better( just scent lilac.. throws good in c3 and paraffin.( NOt a major decrease in throw but i can notice it.

I may make another test with a bit for fragrance ( although i like to keep em at 1 oz per pound)

So far i really can't justify the bit more the xcela costs over c3 there just isnt enoughdifference.

Gonna try to play with more fragrances this weekend.

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The wax solidifies smooth. There were no hidden voids so far. One odd thing i did notice is, the underside of the container totally frosted.

I'm just wondering, did you cool them on a counter? It may be worth a try to put one on a rack and another on newspaper. Can't find it in my notes ... but the little grey cells are telling me. I was losing the frosting pattern on the bottom of the Glass Glow palm containers when they were cooled in direct contact with the counter. Maybe the fast cooling is producing the frost?

And I'm thinking that keeping the FO @ 1oz pp and finding a smaller wick might improve the hot throw.

You have my thanks for keeping us posted on your testing!

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Judy, the overloaded fragrance wE just a test to see what would happen. Today. Imgetting seepage of fo on the unburned one. I'm going to step the fo load down to my standard 1 oz and retest. Hopefully tonight I can get several different fragrances made to test.

Was rereading the tech sheets, it says noheating of jars is required so I think I'm going to mess around with that too. I have 10 lbs of it to play with so we will see what comes of it.

Anyone else get any to try? What are your thoughts?

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Well my results are in....and I will continue to use C3.

The last time I poured C3 at 125 degrees(a lower temp than I normally poured at) I noticed a difference in brighter colors and absolutely NO frosting. And, I have a great hot throw with C3.

I don't warm up my jars and I don't add anything to my wax.

When I poured the new wax..Excel, I poured it at 125 degrees and I still got frosting on alot of the candles.

The only thing I did differently was that I added the UV protection powder to all of the candles.

I selected fragrances and colors that had very bad frosting issues in the past..such as black cherry bomb(which actually only had 1 small squiggle tht you can see in the picture) & Red Apple Peel(which had mild frosting on all 4 of the jars).

What is weird is that the Black Cherry Bomb's color looks great and that color and fragrance frosted really bad before.

For the heck of it, I poured two jars at a higher temp to see if any frosting would occur -coco mango(peach color) & caribbean(bluish-green color) and all 4 of the coco mango jars had frosting and the hot pour for the caribbean frosted bad and just a few spots on the other jars. So, pouring at a lower temp helped the ONE candle(Caribbean) but not the other candle-coco mango. Hmmm!

I did not test throw yet because I just poured them yesterday.

But I can tell you that it doesn't matter because I am not going to buy anymore of this wax.

I only bought 10# and I used 5# yesterday.

I will make fragrance and dye free with the rest of the wax.

It is not worth the extra money if it still has frosting issues.

I will continue to use C3 and pour at a low temp and maybe add some coconut oil to help minimize the chances for frosting.

I never tried the coconut oil but it is worth a try.

Actually, I have Caribbean burning right now and it has a great throw:)

But it is still no good if it is not pretty:/

I hope this helps others who were thinking about switching.

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Thanks a million for your testing and great pics, SoyChick.

Seems like every soy is finicky ... but these tops don't seem to be as cratered as others. But if that's the only advantage it may not be worth the extra $$$.

Please let us know about the hot throw once they get cured!

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Hello all,

This is my first post on this site, just found it a while ago and have been reading a lot.

I got some of this new wax and I just made a bout 15 candles, 8 secnts and colors, with it. Pored all at about 140-150 and have only 1 set of candles, hot cocoa in brown redi-glow, that I can see any frosting in. The tops are smooth but there was some minor holes in the top from air pockets, only 1 per candle. Nothing a heat gun could not fix easily.

CT is nice and HT, as far as I can tell, TL in bathrooms and small room, appears to be pretty good. But then the last wax I was working with was ESA.

Will try to get some pictures of them posted.

Jim R.

BTW - Semper Fi Judy. 1833 in Camp Pendleton CA. Out in 1990.

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