a newbie needs help with container candles!

[cliklm]

I thought I'd attempt to make some container candles with soy wax but I'm having lots of problems! I am using a 16 oz apthocay jar. I'm adding my dye and fragrance at 185 degrees and I'm pouring at 135 degrees. I cooled it in a covered box.

1) My first attempt was 5 cups of EZSoy. (I don't have a scale so I measured out 5 cups of wax flakes), 1 oz. fragrance, maple dye chips (I had to use several to get the color dark enough) and I used an HTP1212 wick. The color turned out terrible, the wax was severly frosted on the top, wet spots on the side of the container, and they burned down like a tunnel.

2) My second attempt was again using 5 cups of EZSoy but I added 1/3 cup of beeswax pellets, 1 oz. fragrance, 1 yellow dye chip, and size 24 LX wick. The color turned out nice, nice smool top with no frost, still a few wet spots, but these had a thin circular crack about 1" out from the wick. When I test burned it tunneled on me again!

So, I guess I have multiple problems. Can anyone recommend the wick size and how do I eliminate the cracks and wet spots?

Kathy

[Stella1952]

I don't have a scale so I measured out 5 cups

First, you need a scale. Ingredients should be weighed for accuracy. Volume measure just isn't accurate enough.

I am using a 16 oz apthocay jarI am using a 16 oz apthocay jar

IMHO, a 16 oz. apothecary container is a large size to start. Candles have to be tested all the way down and it takes a long time to burn a 1 pounder! What is the diameter of the jar inside?

they burned down like a tunnel...it tunneled on me again

How long did you burn your candles before deciding they were tunneling? Generally, candles are tested by burning in stages - 1 hour per inch of inside diameter. It is not at all uncommon to not reach FMP on the first or even second test burn. Soy burns down, then out. Many candles do not catch up with hangup on the side of the container until the last half of the candle because the container heats up more as the candle burns down into it.

color turned out terrible, the wax was severly frosted on the top

Some FOs & colors cause more frosting than others... dark brown is a frequent froster. You did not mention which FO you were using, but this could have had an effect also. Reducing frosting in EZ Soy (415) can be problematic. If you search the veggie wax forum for tips on using 415 or EZ Soy, you may find some great ideas that have worked well for others.

wet spots on the side of the container

Did you wash the container before pouring? There is residue left on the glass after manufacturing that can cause the wax not to adhere well to the glass. It also helps to warm the container (~110°F) prior to pouring.

a thin circular crack about 1" out from the wick

The beeswax hardened the wax slightly and also raised the melt point. It does help to make a smoother top... If the candle cools unevenly, this can also cause circular cracking around the wick.

Is there a reason you switched from the HTP to the LX wick? Generally it's helpful to stick with one type wick in a range of sizes to test so you can ascertain how the different sizes affect the burn. Changing the formula does not help either because additives (the beeswax) affect how the candle burns. When testing, it's good to be very methodical so that you can tell what caused a difficulty. Many folks omit FO & dye until they get the wicking down, then add one thing at a time, adjusting the wicking as needed to arrive at the proper balance.

These are just some general hints - I don't use your wax but others will be along to give you more specific info about your wax. HTH

[cliklm]

First, you need a scale. Ingredients should be weighed for accuracy. Volume measure just isn't accurate enough.

Okay--I better purchase a scale!

IMHO, a 16 oz. apothecary container is a large size to start. Candles have to be tested all the way down and it takes a long time to burn a 1 pounder! What is the diameter of the jar inside?

Yes, leave it to me to start with the 16 oz The inside diameter is 3 1/4 inches.

How long did you burn your candles before deciding they were tunneling? Generally, candles are tested by burning in stages - 1 hour per inch of inside diameter. It is not at all uncommon to not reach FMP on the first or even second test burn. Soy burns down, then out. Many candles do not catch up with hangup on the side of the container until the last half of the candle because the container heats up more as the candle burns down into it.

I burned them for 4 hours and saw they were not properly burning.

Some FOs & colors cause more frosting than others... dark brown is a frequent froster. You did not mention which FO you were using, but this could have had an effect also. Reducing frosting in EZ Soy (415) can be problematic. If you search the veggie wax forum for tips on using 415 or EZ Soy, you may find some great ideas that have worked well for others.

I used pumpkin souflee on the brown candle and pear on the yellow candle. It's a light color so I thought that would be best.

Did you wash the container before pouring? There is residue left on the glass after manufacturing that can cause the wax not to adhere well to the glass. It also helps to warm the container (~110°F) prior to pouring.

I did wash the jars but did not heat them--good point!

The beeswax hardened the wax slightly and also raised the melt point. It does help to make a smoother top... If the candle cools unevenly, this can also cause circular cracking around the wick.

Is there a reason you switched from the HTP to the LX wick? Generally it's helpful to stick with one type wick in a range of sizes to test so you can ascertain how the different sizes affect the burn. Changing the formula does not help either because additives (the beeswax) affect how the candle burns. When testing, it's good to be very methodical so that you can tell what caused a difficulty. Many folks omit FO & dye until they get the wicking down, then add one thing at a time, adjusting the wicking as needed to arrive at the proper balance.

I had ordered the HTP wick thinking that was the correct size to use but when it tunneled I thought perhaps the wick was burning too fast. So I had several sizes of LX and after checking various websites I thought perhaps the LX 24 would be a good wick size. I think I'll start another test and follow your suggestion leaving out dye and FO and work on the wicking first - and perhaps start with a smaller container

These are just some general hints - I don't use your wax but others will be along to give you more specific info about your wax. HTH

I appreciate your advice! I started making beeswax pillars last year (just for my use and for family and frieds) but I thought I'd like to try some container candles. I should have known not to start so agressively with such a large container!

Kathy

[Stella1952]

Well, it's hard not to get excited and make a big 'un!!

According to the WickIt wick recommendation chart you are at the low end for LXs with that diameter container. You might try a bigger one, but do remember that it isn't unusual for it to take a few test burns before getting a FMP with soy wax, especially with a large diameter candle. Four hours won't tell you much unless the wick is a torch or just lays down and dies.

I don't know about the HTP wicked one, but I think you should keep on burning the LX 24 - it might do just fine. You could melt them down in the oven & rewick, too.

Hope you're having fun! That's the main idea!!

Edited December 9, 2009 by Stella1952

[cliklm]

Stella--thanks for the advice and encouragement! Yes, I am having fun Hopefully, I'll be posting some success stories soon!

Kathy

[Howard]

Yep! Did what you did. Started with a 1 pound square canning jar. bought a pound of wax, FO and guessed at wicking from a craft store...mistake. Did not try color. It looked fine but smoked and burned right down the middle. Then I got enlightened...Saw the Candle Science video and read posts here and decided to just follow the exact recipie in the video. Worked out great so I went to smaller glass and now I have made 30 candles!

Have fun and good candleing!

[jennyjo]

EZ Soy was my first wax, too, so let me see if I can help. First off, when I did an apothecary jar that size, I always had to use two wicks for that size of jar. With EZ Soy, I found that CD wicks work the best. I am not sure where I would start with the double wicks, but maybe two CD 8 0r 10s and then go up from there. It works best if you put them about one inch apart. For you being new at this, I would start working with some jelly jars first until I got the hang of it. I think maybe CD 12 and 14 would be a good starting place for those. You said you poured at 130 and that is the reason you got so much frost. You want to pour the EZ soy once it gets slushy...thats usually around 100 degrees. I heard someone describe it once like thick tomato soup, and that about what it looks like. Just be patient. Once you get the hang of it, it isn't so bad.

And also, don't forget to let your candles cure for a week or so before testing the scent throw. Soy takes a while. Some fragrances will cure quicker and some will take much longer. Its all in experimentation.

Also, before you do anything else, go buy a scale at Walmart or the kitchen supply store. You want a digital kitchen scale. Weigh your wax and your oil. I recommend 1-1.25 ounces of fragrance per pound of soy. And a little hint: one pound of prepared soy wax will yield three jelly jars almost perfectly. The colors just take practice, but soy is hard to get dark colors so it's best to settle for pastels, otherwise the color can clog the wicks up.

Good Luck!

[cliklm]

Howard and Jennyjo,

Thanks for the tips. I've been sick for a few days but this weekend I'm taking another stab at container candles. I ordered some tins and jelly jars and decided to start smaller and tiptoe into this instead of making a big spash! :tiptoe: I'm also going to take the good advice on testing.

Kathy

[topofmurrayhill]

I liked jennyjo's post. She just told you everything you need to know to get off to a better start.

You did begin with a difficult container that needs two wicks for practical purposes. People sometimes claim to have one-wick designs for that size candle, which I suppose could be OK just making it for yourself but not so good if you ever want to give it away or sell it. Without trimming the wick and burning the candle just right it tends to work badly.