ldoebler Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 I am new at this, and I was wondering if wick tabs are necessary to make jar candles? Some "how to" websites tell you to just glue the wick directly into the bottom center of the jar. Have you tried this? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charmcandleco Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Wick Tabs are not a necessity. But you do of course have to have some sort of glue for your wicks. You can use hot glue, wick tabs, glue dots, silicone based high temp. glue. If I were you I would not use glue dots. They tend to come unglued pretty easy. As for wick tabs I have never used them. I have used hot glue and the silicone glue. Out of these for now I use the hot glue. Just make sure you get High temp glue though. IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deb426 Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 By wick tab do you mean the metal piece that anchors the wick to the bottom of the jar or do you mean something like a glue dot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BarbaraC Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 GE silicone 2 clear is what works the best for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charmcandleco Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Thats a good Question Deb426. I didn't even think about her talking about the anchors. I just assumed she was talking about the wick stickers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topofmurrayhill Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 It does sound like she's talking about metal wick tabs.Those are considered necessary. I can imagine a few bad things that could happen with the wick glued directly to the glass, so it's probably best if you don't do that. For container candles, most people buy wicks that are already tabbed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustpuuppy Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 The tabs are easier and safer. The websites you mention will probably wind up getting sued out of existence, as will you, if you follow their advice, most likely.Glueing the wick to the bottom of the container means that the candle will burn all the way down and the flame will come into direct contact with the glass. This could shatter the glass and release a flaming gelatinous mass that will ooze across Aunt Edna's antique coffee table.The wick tab extinguishes the candle before it can get to the glass. Thus preventing the slow roasting of Aunt Edna.But you don't HAVE to use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charmcandleco Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 This is a little off topic. But your post dustpuuppy reminded of an incident I ran into with a customer. I had sold her a candle. She contacted me and was complaining about how bad it had sooted up the jar. I know that all waxes through out some soot but none of my soy candles have ever put out as much soot as she was talking about. I asked her to bring it in so I could look at it. She did which surprised me. I got to looking at it and the wick no joke was rolled up in a ball. It was about three inches to long. Lucky I put warnings on them stating that you have to trim the wicks for safety reasons. Because no joke if she would have keep burning that thing any longer it would have shattered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardLOZ Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 We generally use hot glue, which works really well for soy. We have had some minor issues with palm as it is poured way hotter than the soy, so to some degree what you use may also depend on the wax that you are using also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandleindulgence Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Hello,I highly recommend using Glue Dots. These are fast and efficient. I have tried to use the glue gun and IMO you don't always get the wick secure to the jar and it takes too long. I have been using Glue Dots for 12 years and will continue to use.HTH, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 This isn't just an issue of sticking a wick to the bottom of a container - it is a product safety issue!Use an adhesive that will SECURELY hold the wicktab to the container and not soften or let go when the wax becomes liquid and the inside container temperature rises (especially if the candle is powerburned without benefit of having the wick trimmed by a customer). If the adhesive softens enough to allow liquid wax to be drawn up into the wick, the wick will continue to burn regardless of the height of the neck of the wicktab where it should self-extinguish. If it softens enough to let go, the wick can wander to the side of the container and cause a safety issue and lots of soot on the side of the container (*see photo in the thread link below*). NONE of the glue dots I have used will hold reliably when the wax becomes liquid and hot.an incident I ran into with a customer. I had sold her a candle. She contacted me and was complaining about how bad it had sooted up the jar. I know that all waxes through out some soot but none of my soy candles have ever put out as much soot as she was talking about. I asked her to bring it in so I could look at it. She did which surprised me. I got to looking at it and the wick no joke was rolled up in a ball. It was about three inches to long. Lucky I put warnings on them stating that you have to trim the wicks for safety reasons. Because no joke if she would have keep burning that thing any longer it would have shattered....And this is WHY we have to pay extra attention to safety issues when making candles - because SOME people ARE IDIOTS and have enough money to hire lawyers for product liability suits when they manage to cause damage or injury to themselves by NOT following instructions or using basic, common sense. Contrary to popular belief, a warning label & instructions will NOT protect a chandler from a product liability suit, which is why we carry product liability insurance, use self-trimming wicks, high-temp adhesives and wicktabs with high necks! All an attorney has to do is demonstrate that other candles, even if burned under the same conditions, will not exhibit the same behavior as caused the problem for their client... *Whack* Judgement for the plaintiff! *faint*This is a topic recently discussed *HERE*. It has also been discussed in many threads, accessible by searching the forums with the site or Google search tool. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deb426 Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 I still think the original poster was asking about metal wick tabs instead of adhesive. Maybe he or she could clarify the question so we can answer appropriately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charmcandleco Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 This isn't just an issue of sticking a wick to the bottom of a container - it is a product safety issue!Use an adhesive that will SECURELY hold the wicktab to the container and not soften or let go when the wax becomes liquid and the inside container temperature rises (especially if the candle is powerburned without benefit of having the wick trimmed by a customer). If the adhesive softens enough to allow liquid wax to be drawn up into the wick, the wick will continue to burn regardless of the height of the neck of the wicktab where it should self-extinguish. If it softens enough to let go, the wick can wander to the side of the container and cause a safety issue and lots of soot on the side of the container (*see photo in the thread link below*). NONE of the glue dots I have used will hold reliably when the wax becomes liquid and hot....And this is WHY we have to pay extra attention to safety issues when making candles - because SOME people ARE IDIOTS and have enough money to hire lawyers for product liability suits when they manage to cause damage or injury to themselves by NOT following instructions or using basic, common sense. Contrary to popular belief, a warning label & instructions will NOT protect a chandler from a product liability suit, which is why we carry product liability insurance, use self-trimming wicks, high-temp adhesives and wicktabs with high necks! All an attorney has to do is demonstrate that other candles, even if burned under the same conditions, will not exhibit the same behavior as caused the problem for their client... *Whack* Judgement for the plaintiff! *faint*This is a topic recently discussed *HERE*. It has also been discussed in many threads, accessible by searching the forums with the site or search tool. HTH None of the glue dots I have used are reliable enough for me ether. Thats why I use the hot glue and silicone adhesives. The wick stayed in place it never moved. Its just that the lady never trimmed the wick. No joke you should have seen the thing. I guess all I can do is hope that nothing like this happens again. Which I know it probably will. Man it almost just makes me not want to sell to her again. After reading your post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charmcandleco Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 I still think the original poster was asking about metal wick tabs instead of adhesive. Maybe he or she could clarify the question so we can answer appropriately.I think your right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glint Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 (edited) Hi,I really like using small tabs in my candles. I pour a small layer of wax in the bottom of the container and allowed it to cool slightly before placing the tab in. Then center the tabbed wick and use the soft wax as an anchor. This also prevents the tab from being visible from the bottom of the jar if you're not using a sticker on the base. The tabs come in a variety of sizes, so you just have to see which size works best with the wick you're using as well as the container.Lacey Edited August 19, 2011 by Vicky_CO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 (edited) Using the wax to hold your wick tab will NOT prevent the tab from moving nor will it seal the wick at the bottom to prevent continued drawing of fuel when the wax becomes soft and liquid at the end of the candle. This defeats the purpose of a wick tab. This is NOT a safe practice. Edited August 18, 2011 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bart70 Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 (edited) Hi,I really like using small tabs in my candles. I pour a small layer of wax in the bottom of the container and allowed it to cool slightly before placing the tab in. Then center the tabbed wick and use the soft wax as an anchor. This also prevents the tab from being visible from the bottom of the jar if you're not using a sticker on the base. The tabs come in a variety of sizes, so you just have to see which size works best with the wick you're using as well as the container.LaceyI did the same thing in one of my testers once (was out of glue sticks and needed to make up a tester quickly). Once the melt pool got to the bottom of the candle, the wax holding the tab at the bottom become liquid, the tab then wandered over to the edge of the jar, then the jar shattered!I admit that I did knew this was a risk at the time, made sure it was very carefully monitored when it got near the bottom, and ensured I was present when it did it. Not sure of how good the outcome would have been if it was at Aunt Edna's and on her antique table, without being closely watched.I agree with Stella - to not secure properly is a very dangerous practice. I have seen the result first hand.The wick tab must be secured, and with a product that has a higher melt point than the wax being used (keep in mind that Palm is a lot hotter than Soy so what may be suitable in Soy may not work for Palm)Bart Edited August 19, 2011 by Vicky_CO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 It's okay, Bart. I just noticed the tiny print link in the bottom left of the reply.... this is a spammer trying to direct traffic to its site to sell a book on candlemaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bart70 Posted August 18, 2011 Share Posted August 18, 2011 (edited) Sneaky little beggars.......LOLI guess the book is not going to be too big a success if this is the quality of the content.....:rolleyes2:rolleyes2Bart Edited August 18, 2011 by bart70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.