Jola Posted March 17, 2009 Posted March 17, 2009 I've been doing heaps of research on CP soap making and it wasn't until a day or two ago I even heard about insulting it once it goes into the molds. Is it something that is an absolute must? What exactly does it do? I've already made 3 batches... they look ok and I didn't insulate any of them. :rolleyes2 Quote
topofmurrayhill Posted March 17, 2009 Posted March 17, 2009 To keep things simple, let's just consider small batches that are made with oils, NaOH and water--no ingredients that could cause overheating.Generally it's good to keep heat in the mold because it helps the saponification process along. Insulating the mold contributes to that by retaining the heat and keeping the drafts off. It isn't always necessary, but it's a common thing to do.One other consideration is whether the soap goes through the "gel" stage in the mold. That's when it melts from the heat of saponification, taking on a dark translucent look until it cools off and goes back to normal. Whether that happens depends on bunch of things, especially the temperature of the soap batter, the size/construction of the mold and the temperature of the room.Some people aim to have the soap gel completely in the mold. Other people leave it to chance. Some even avoid it. With many of the recipes that people commonly use, you can choose whichever approach you prefer. However, you really can't go wrong with having your batch go through the gel stage. It assures thorough saponification and a uniform look and consistency to the soap. So that's another way that insulating can be useful.If the soap you made seems fine, it probably is. Enjoy it. In the future, you could try covering up the mold with towels or something and see how that works. Some people even put a heating pad under it. Quote
debratant Posted March 17, 2009 Posted March 17, 2009 Do you use a wooden mold? Your batches are fine eventhough you didn't insulate. Sometimes I do, sometimesI don't. I have a wooden mold with a lid, and honestlyI think wooden molds hold the heat alot more. I havea beach towel that I use to wrap the mold in. For me...I can kinda tell if my batch is going to need alittle help. If I can feel it heating up in the mold beforeI put it in it's spot I won't cover it. If I don't feel muchheat, I'll cover it. Quote
Jcandleattic Posted March 17, 2009 Posted March 17, 2009 Basically in a nutshell, insulation will help ensure a full gel. Soap does not have to gel to become soap, so NO you do not HAVE to insulate. In fact a lot of my gm soaps go right into the fridge after pouring. preferring not to insulate or gel. To gel soap is a personal preference and not a must. Quote
Flicker Posted March 17, 2009 Posted March 17, 2009 I am for the most part a non geller. I soap room temp and actually avoid gel UNLESS a scent will cause a reaction and a partial gel or I know the color ends up better if I gel it. This soap in this pic below is soaped room temp and not gelled at all:And this one here is fully gelled:If I don't gel that pink it looks dirty gray Both soaps are made with the exact same recipe aside from the gelling and feel identical in the end of the cure process Quote
ChrisR Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 All my soaps are made with 100% fresh goat's milk and I never let them gel, so they stay a cream/ivory color. They go right into my freezer the minute they are poured. Quote
Wildcrafter Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 I used to insulate. For years, like a sheep, after reading you have to without knowing why. The "books" said I had to or the soap would be ruined. The "books" can sure make soap making harder than it is and can make a person insecure about even trying to make it.Then I decided to make my own decisions and try different things. I don't insulate anymore. Some of the soap gels, some don't. Either way, the soap turns out incredible. I use wooden molds if that make any difference. Quote
Scented Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 Only difference I've found is that if I don't gel, it has to stay in the mold a lot longer than I like. If I gel, I can usually pull it within 24 to 36 hours. Quote
8-GRAN-ONES Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 I did not gell at all when I first started making soap..I now gell most of my soaps..it seems that they get harder, faster..and there just seems to be a smoothness about them, that with not gelling I don't get..Does that make sence?And maybe gelling has nothing to do with it..But that is my observation..Scented..I made soap last night about 6pm..and this morning about 8 I unmolded..it was still a little warm..but I cut it..and it just did great..and it gelled..and is already pretty hard..forgot to add...I wrapped it up in blankets..and the scent is Tonic from SW..and it smells delish...I am in love with this scent.. Quote
chuck_35550 Posted March 18, 2009 Posted March 18, 2009 I use pasteurized goats milk from wally world in my gm soaps and they don't gel either. They turn different colors depending on the fo (pumpkin spice colors a tan and creme brulee turns chocolate because of the vanilla). I cure those suckers and have never thought about putting them in the freezer. I never sell them until they have had at least two weeks of cure time and usually never have them long enough to be more than several months old until they are sold. Why do you freeze? Sorry I took over the thread. Quote
ChrisR Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 Chuck I put my log molds in the freezer just to make sure they don't gel on me. I used to put them in the fridge, but some would partial gel and I HATE that. I take them out the next day, let them sit about an hour, unmold and cut. Quote
Karen M Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 I've been doing heaps of research on CP soap making and it wasn't until a day or two ago I even heard about insulting it once it goes into the molds. I would never insult mine or anybody elses' soap! Just kidding, this made my day I needed a laugh, thanks Jola, and happy soaping!! Quote
Meridith Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Whether or not I force gel depends on the soap I am making and the mold I am using. If I'm making a milk soap, I try to avoid gel but sticking my mold in the fridge. If I am using my slab mold and its real cold out, because the ceilings in my shop are so high and the building is so old and drafty , I will insulate my mold or pop it into a warm oven so it will gel all the way the through. Othewise, I have a problem with partial gel. I don't usually have to worry about it if I'm using one of my wood log molds. They are pretty good at hold the soaps heat in by themselves. I do cover all my batches too in order to try to avoid ash. Quote
chuck_35550 Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Oh cool, I never thought of putting the mold in the fridge or freezer. Learn something new everyday.Thanks Chris Quote
Imblebee Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Even put in the freezer the minute after pouring I sometimes get gel... Quote
Jola Posted March 20, 2009 Author Posted March 20, 2009 I would never insult mine or anybody elses' soap! Just kidding, this made my day I needed a laugh, thanks Jola, and happy soaping!!hahah! It cracks me up how many grammatical and spelling errors I have now. I worked in editing for over 4 years. Ever since I was laid off I've slacked off considerably! lol Quote
thecandlespastore Posted March 25, 2009 Posted March 25, 2009 Its beome a habit for me to pop all of my batches in the oven when I soap. All except the PVC pipe soaps which will gel regardless anyway. I personally like to gel because when I go I can usually cut my recipe within 10 hours of making it. When I do not gel I have to wait a little longer. Or the soap acts funny and feels crumbly. I can't actually remember a time when I have not gelled in the past few years. Quote
chuck_35550 Posted April 10, 2009 Posted April 10, 2009 Yeah, partial gels are not good. My Kelsei goes in the oven for the gelling process and just sits out on the counter for milk soaps. I mix my oils and soap at fairly cool temps (about 80 degrees) and feel the side of the mold for heat at different times during the 24 hour period before turning the bars out. Quote
Meridith Posted April 18, 2009 Posted April 18, 2009 Can someone explain what gelling is?When oils and lye are mixed together, they begin a chemical reaction called saponification. During this process, the soap mixture goes through and exothermic process and produces its own heat which will create what's called the "gel stage" and really does look like a gel/vaseline or turn translucent. Once it cools down, it will become more opaque looking and will begin to harden up as the soap goes through its cure and the rest of any of the liquid evaporates. As has been said, gel is not necessary but a properly cured bar really is. Quote
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