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Posted

I have done a lot of research on here and have read that your tests should result in a an inch per hour for melt pool and about a 1/2" melted wax depth. Is it ok that if I achieve the diameter of the melt pool in the required time but the melted wax depth is more than 1/2"? There is no smoking and great scent throw, no mushrooming (I was surprised to see none)

Another chandler I PM'd told me not to ruin a good thing and if the jar was not extremely HOT, (it's lukewarm) , and there are no other ugly characteristics that I shouldn't worry about it or change it.

After 2 hours the depth is more like an inch. But it's not hot.... at all. It just worries me. On another scent the depth of wax stayed at 1/2" after 4 hours.

Posted

I think the 1/2" is a basic indicator to go by. It could be slightly more or slightly less than 1/2". I have some scents that create a deeper melt pool than others. Sometimes thats okay and others you may want to wick up or down. But if its close to 1/2" and you have a nice burn going, the jar is not hot to the touch, and a good scent throw than you may not need to do anything.

Posted

I would be less worried if it had no other side effects. Like the smoking or soot you mentioned, mushrooming, and so on. Another thing to consider is... Is the depth of melted wax increasing the longer the candle burns? I mean after 4 hours of a burn, is there 4 inches of melted wax or does it stay consistent at the same amount you mentioned. Like Vicki asked. Is this your first burn? And definitly, ALWAYS, burn your candle all the way through before making adjustments.

Posted
Vicki, I think she is saying the the depth is an inch (1/2" more). That's how I understood it anyway.

I could be wrong.

I just missed that part

She needs to wick down if she has a 1" depth in her melt pool other wise half way through the jar she is going to run in to some serious problem.

Here is some of the possible problems

Using up the FO to fast and have no scent left at the end

Last half of the candle being nothing but a melt pool .

Using up the wax to fast. The burn time will greatly reduced.

The jar the last half of the candle getting way to hot.

Soot will start in the last half from having to large of a wick and it will mushroom like crazy.

If her jar tapers in these problems will be worse if it tapers out less of a problem.

There are a lot of factors involve here but you should never have that deep of a melt pool on the first burn and never with in the first 2 hours of the first burn. I can see it as being fine in the last half of the candle but not the first of the candle.

Posted

For us to help you effectively, what wax, dyes, FO & amt., additives, etc. are you using in what style/size container?

Without enough info, we're shooting in the dark... mentioning NOW that you are doublewicking has a lot of bearing on the issue, so give us the lowdown first!!

I don't know if this would change the melt depth or not but this is a double wicked 4" jar?

Well, CERTAINLY it would! That's TWICE the heat!!

Let's start over with ALL the pertinent info and perhaps we'll get somewhere!! ;):)

Posted

On the advice of some others on here I did a 50/50 blend of CBAdvance and IGI4630. It is a large jar, about 3" wide at mouth, 4" rest of the jar. I used 1 oz pp of Fragrance. I used 1tsp vybar pp. and about 3 drops of liquid dye. 2 red one blue. It is Lavender Fields from JBN. And used 2 CD10 wicks spaced about and inch apart from one another.

Posted

When I double wick I like to try to base it on other jars with the same wax and scent, but different size. So let's say I have a 3" inch jar that works great with... a CD10 wick. ( This is JUST an example) And the jar I am going to double wick is 4". Like Stella said, there is twice the heat with double wicks so automatically it's going to be hot in there. So for me I figure I should wick down a few as a starting point. Doesn't mean I am going to stay that low, it just gives me an idea of what to start with. A Double wicker with CD10's just seems too large to me, considering how it did in a 3" jar. So I would maybe divide that in half, which would take it to a CD5 but I have yet to find one. I would start at CD4's and if those didn't quite make it I would go up to CD6's.

I have wicked a 4" apothecary BTW way and CD4's worked well for me. Some scents took a CD6, but only a few. HTH

This is just my procedure. Every one has different ways.

Posted

I actually have a 4 incher I need to test anyway. It's wicked exactly how I explained above. I will light it up, go do my errands and show you the results after an hour, 2 hours and so on if you want. (No I am not leaaving my candle alone, I meant errands in my house, LOL)

Posted

I was also wondering if I double wick, normally should the melt pool change. So instead of a single wick taking 4 hours to reach the diameter, a double wick should take 2?

Posted

OK, so this is after 2 hours of burning. The jar is just warm to the touch, not hot at all, my melt depth has stayed consistent at this depth. No Soot, No Shrooms. Great Scent Throw.

lol2.jpg

002.jpg

Posted
Stella do those work for you? I was wondering about that a long time ago.

Yes, or I wouldn't have recommended them. The range I gave is dependent on the container shape and particular FO.

So instead of a single wick taking 4 hours to reach the diameter, a double wick should take 2?

No. The amount of time it takes to reach FMP should remain relatively constant - that's why double-wicking is very tricky. You either have a single wick that puts off X amount of heat required for a FMP after X amount of time or you use two (or three or five) wicks to achieve the exact same thing. The RESULT should remain the same.

Posted
this is after 2 hours of burning. The jar is just warm to the touch
If that's a 4" jar, reaching FMP in only 2 hours with the depth shown in the photo, I would consider that candle overwicked. By the time it reaches halfway down in the jar, that puppy is gonna be hot! I'd feel a lot better if the photos were taken after 6 hours of burn (4 hours, cooled, then relit). Wicking for the last half of the candle is the key.
I'm gonna have to try a cd20 by itself.

Remember that CDs are slightly less efficient than CDNs, so you might need to have a larger size, BUT this is a parasoy blend sooooo... Have several sizes larger and smaller available for best testing results... Good luck! :)

HTH :)

Posted

This is the only jar I have had to go up to cd4's in a long time. I didn't really want to. MOST of my jars take only 2 cd2's. I have been burning this candle again today, meltpool is slower and more shallow in depth today. The jar is barely warm. It's been 3 hours and the MP hasn't even reached the diameter of the jar yet.

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