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Making the switch to soy...help!


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I've decided to start making soy candles. (Currently I'm a 4627 user). I am overwhelmed with the choices, probably even more so than when I chose a paraffin wax a year ago.

My *only* wax experience is with 4627, and CS Glass Glow (which I've dabbled in once or twice).

I'm ready to get some waxes to start testing, and I know soy is a completely different ball game.

In my last CS order I got 10# of 464 to try...I tried pouring a tester yesterday...:rolleyes2 It smells wonderful today, but I messed the tops up I guess because I bumped my table when they were setting up.

Anyhow, I'm reading over the old posts here, and I know soy wax preferences are as varied as there are waxes.

Anything in particular I need to read/know before I dive deeper (yes i know read read and test test test)?

I do have a question about the 464 before I go any further than that, I heard there are issues with this wax and hot weather? (like outdoor venues or shipping?) Just thinking ahead and trying to avoid future problems...

I am definitely wanting a 1 pour container wax at this point, and I'd like to maybe try some tarts.

Any suggestions, advice, recommendations, resources, etc, I'm all ears.

Oh, and supplier wise, I'm in the FL panhandle.

Thanks in advance!

dana

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I think the 464 is one of the easiest waxes to work with. Easy to wick and all. Soy and perfect tops usually dont happen in the same sentence.

also hot weather and soy of ANY kind does not mix. Soy wax is soft and usually has a lower melt point than paraffin.

tootie

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Hi Tootie! I've read a lot of your posts regarding your work with 464, testing, etc. So glad you've shared all your trials and successes!

So.......if soy doesn't do well in any kind of heat, for those who use soy......... what do you do in hot weather, for those of you who sell/show/ship???

I thought about doing a blend, but thought maybe I should start with just the soy first. I have no idea, I'm completely overwhelmed.....

My soy candles look even worse today, lol, seems they are oozing oil, my FO I can only assume, since my a/c is off? Whatever it is, they are a complete disaster, lol....

Gonna try to pour again and see if I can do any better.

I'm pouring the 464 it in 6oz tins with ECO wicks (I don't have any CD). I don't use dye and I try to keep my FO at 6%.

Thanks!

Dana

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One of the differences between 415 and 464. 464 has a lower melting point than 415. So if you are concerned about shipping with 464 you are probably better off with a soy without additives. Unless you experiment with beeswax which in turn will raise the melting point even higher.

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One of the differences between 415 and 464. 464 has a lower melting point than 415. So if you are concerned about shipping with 464 you are probably better off with a soy without additives. Unless you experiment with beeswax which in turn will raise the melting point even higher.

This is correct. The 464 is the LOWEST melt point of all the soy's I think. I have played with the 415 and 444 and did not like either of them and I have a high tolerace for the looks of soy and to me they were just not good at all.

as for heat and all I think MOST of us are more or less "off" in the heat of the summer. As for shipping if you have to ship I use USPS and I ship on Mon or Tues so it will get there by weeks end. I always ship priority mail. If you use UPS or any of the other carriers just ship EARLY in the week so it will be delivered by friday.

If I was doing shows I would only do indoor shows in the summer. Maybe someone else who sells in the summer months can give ya some more suggestions.

Oh and if you do experiment with bees wax (I tried and didnt get it to work) DONT use it with the 464.

tootie

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I currently use a soy wax that is 100% soy wax and is called container soy wax and comes in pastilles. For that wax I use RRD47 wicks but am about to experiment with bigger LX ones that are coming this week.

It's a nightmare with smooth tops using just that and nothing else. All I can say is get friendly with your heat gun because that is the only way I've had perfect tops using this type of wax and I'm a perfectionist.

What I have done lately is blend it with a palm veggie blend and it's made the tops smoother. Try different percentages to see what works for you. I haven't tried the kind you have mentioned in your post but just ordered some Ecosoy CB advanced that I expect this week and will be trying tonnes of different wicks as well to see what works.

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Try different pour temperatures too. That may help your tops look better. There is no one perfect technique or "rule" for soy wax. You just have to find what works for you and your climate. Good luck, I hope you like working with the soy. My advice about the tops, find a temp that works and embrace some "irregularities" as character of soy, after all, it is natural.

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Oh and if you do experiment with bees wax (I tried and didnt get it to work) DONT use it with the 464.

tootie

What did the bw do? LeeAnn~

The manufacturer does not recommend using bees wax. There was a LONG thread about the 464 when we were testing it. Search 464 and you should find it.

tootie

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Thanks everyone for the advice.....huh, I don't even HAVE a heat gun yet :D but I am looking forward to getting some new waxes to play with.

I surely appreciate everyone's advice!

I'm sure as I get started I'll have more and more questions!!!!

Dana

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I have been using the 415 soy for about 5 years, with about 3-4% beeswax, and pour cool, and have nice looking candles just about every time.

Heatguns are not that expensive and are one of the best tools you can have for candlemaking. :D

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Most times you can get a range of different candles from 1 pour with the 415. I add CO and most of my 8oz tins are smooth all over but the jars can vary between smooth and lumpy. Just get your heat gun and go over the bad ones the day after.

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Most times you can get a range of different candles from 1 pour with the 415. I add CO and most of my 8oz tins are smooth all over but the jars can vary between smooth and lumpy. Just get your heat gun and go over the bad ones the day after.

The same thing with the c-3.( not lumpy) have cracks on some, some don't!

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