larrycat Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 A friend of mine asked me to fill a 4" x 4" jar for her. I used Golden Brand 464, McIntosh FO & red dye. I used Eco 14 and double wicked. I followed CS's instructions on heating, to 180, stirring & pouring at 140, to the T!!Here's my problem. Once the candle cooled it had a terrible looking cracked top, and around the bottom of the jar there are red swirls, obviously the dye!! Also, there are some white areas near the bottom on 3 sides of the candle. These didn't appear until the next morning. After several attempts to zap with the heat gun, the top was slightly better, although rather grainy looking!What the heck did I do wrong??? It is a larger candle, but I never used this wax before and probably won't again, if I can't get this problem resolved. ANY help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racolvin Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 If there are swirls of red dye still obviously visible then you didn't stir enough.As for the initial cracked top, what was the ambient temp and humidity in the room where you poured it and left it to cool?The white areas are probably frosting and I'm afraid that's just something you have to live with - its soy. As for the graininess you saw after using a heat gun, this is also a characteristic of soy that happens when the wax hasn't crystallized properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logcabinmomma Posted October 7, 2008 Share Posted October 7, 2008 One other thing not mentioned- did you wash the container really well first? It sounds like you have a combination of problems.Stir stir stir stir. Like keep stirring after you add the FO and color. I cool to about 150 before pouring 464. Pour in a warm room. Pour into clean jars. I get very smooth tops and haven't had any problems with cracking. With the frosting, using liquid dyes I can get a pretty good red. Try using less red drops and add a touch of brown in with it to deepen in. That may help alot.-Kristi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrycat Posted October 8, 2008 Author Share Posted October 8, 2008 I thought I stirred it enough, but anything is possible. The ambient temp of the room is 68 degrees. I hit the jar with my heat gun just before pouring and the jar was very clean. I'll try pouring at 150, rather than 140 and see how that works! Thanks for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logcabinmomma Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 I heat my candle room to just over 70 when I'm pouring... every little thing helps with frosting. :rolleyes2 -Kristi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8-GRAN-ONES Posted October 8, 2008 Share Posted October 8, 2008 Did you heat your wax high enough before adding Fo & dye..I stir at least 3 min after adding fo and dye...always look and make sure you have no wavy lines in your oils..that is a sign of not enough stirring too.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrycat Posted October 8, 2008 Author Share Posted October 8, 2008 Did you heat your wax high enough before adding Fo & dye..I stir at least 3 min after adding fo and dye...always look and make sure you have no wavy lines in your oils..that is a sign of not enough stirring too..Yes, the wax melted to 180, per CS's website before adding the FO and dye. Should I have increased the heat?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPENDA Posted October 9, 2008 Share Posted October 9, 2008 Regarding wax/wick use recommendations at various sites:It has been my experience that these guidelines are frequently inaccurate. Might be good starting points, however, I've yet to find a dependable guide. I suspect this is because of the large number of potential variables concerning variations in wax lots, specific fragrance and/or dye idiosyncrasies, temp. and jar condition differences. The list goes on and on.VERY frustrating because it would seem like a simple process. Folks here are very generous with their hard-earned knowledge and have saved me lots of time and money.:smiley2:Just my thoughts...I know in the beginning I trusted the "guides" because that seemed to make sense. However, my most accurate knowledge came from tips here and trial and error. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrycat Posted October 9, 2008 Author Share Posted October 9, 2008 I couldn't agree with you more....guess I should have searched this site before I made these candles! Thanks, Again!!:rolleyes2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stacien Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Unfortunately 464 is very temperamental with its surroundings when pouring. 68 degrees is relatively cool which will cause it to cool faster. 464 has to subtly cool or the crystallization will leave big clumps instead of a tight bonding which makes that smooth surface. A lot of people use different techniques such as putting the candles in the oven. Kind of a proofing method. Or covering them with a thermal container so that the heat is trapped within. You have to find a method that works for you, but keep the area above 70 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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