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Hi, newbie here-Glass Glow advice, please!


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Hi, everyone...I've been lurking here for awhile admiring everyone's beautiful candle pics-well, you guys really got me interested in the Palm Wax Glass Glow!I ordered some (from Peak), & went to work on 2 of them last night.The problem is, I cooled them on a cookie rack, & covered them with a towel, to cool them slowly, but while the tops of both are beautiful & shimmery, the sides are almost completely solid :-( There's only a couple of teeny tiny patches that shimmer like the top, barely noticeable unless you're looking for them!Im so let down :-( I poured at just under 200, btw.Is there a step that I missed?Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

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Did you heat your jars before pouring? If I miss that step I lose all crystalization everywhere except for the top.

No, I didn't-that's interesting, thank you!!How do you do this?Do you heat them in the oven?If so, what temp & how long?Sorry for all of the questions!Also, would this be safe for thinner glass, too?

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When I do the glass glow and the frost palm both, I heat my oven to 200 degrees. Just before I put in the FO and dye, I put both the pouring pitcher and the glass containers in the oven, after everything is mixed, ( I can't give you a time period!) I take them out and pour the wax. After I pour I put a box over the containers and cover it with a towel, (covering with a towel probably is not necessary, but I do it anyway.) I have never had one not turn out. The candles are always beautiful.....now if I could just get the wicking down! LOL I hope that this helps, as I have only been working on this for the past 6 months and there are others with far more experience. I wish that I had found the craft server when I first began and maybe would have not caused myself so much heart ache! Good Luck, Debbie

P.S. I also pour at 200 degrees. I read somewhere that it was suggested to pour between 165-185 degrees. If you do this, you will get a whole bunch of jump lines, so apparently this was not real good advise.

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Hi,

I was just wondering what all of you that use this wax thought about the hot throw, is is ok or great? Just wondering thought about it but saw that it can only hold 3% f.o.

Thanks,

Valerie

I use 1 1/2 oz per lb. of wax. It has a great hot throw!

Debbie:smiley2:

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  • 4 months later...

Okay. I have some questions too. I am IN LOVE with Glass Glow. I'm using all PEAK FO's and 8 oz apoc jars. PEAK's suggested using the 6" RRD wick, but they are tunneling. :angry2: However, I'm just on the first burn. Do I wick by the wax, the FO or the jar?? :confused: ((I'm used to the old true blue GB444 and mason jars)) Help me please!!

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If you search the forum for palm wax and glass glow, you'll learn a lot about how DIFFERENT palm wax is from paraffin and soy wax. It burns down, then out. When testing, you have to burn the container at least halfway down before you even begin to get an idea about how the wick is working. It is normal for a palm wax candle to not achieve FMP on the first, second - sometimes even third burn. As the candle burns down, the container heats up and concentrates more heat, allowing the candle to "catch up."

Keep testing! Good luck.:)

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This is weird but...about 3 years ago I ordered some palm wax from swans (I think) anyway I knew NOTHING about palm wax. So I made a candle with it. I dont remember what temp I heated to or poured at....BUT I turned out a beautiful candle!! It had the shimmer and was really pretty through the glass (9oz hex jar) I tested that candle (dont remember which wick either) and it did burn down first. I thought it was gonna tunnel but it didnt ,it did catch up...what is wierd is I didnt have to do anything special...no heating jars or anything.

So I wonder if it is just the glassglow that is difficult to work with or have they changed the palm waxes maybe...:confused:

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If you search the forum for palm wax and glass glow, you'll learn a lot about how DIFFERENT palm wax is from paraffin and soy wax. It burns down, then out. When testing, you have to burn the container at least halfway down before you even begin to get an idea about how the wick is working. It is normal for a palm wax candle to not achieve FMP on the first, second - sometimes even third burn. As the candle burns down, the container heats up and concentrates more heat, allowing the candle to "catch up."

Keep testing! Good luck.:)

Stella, what wick would you use for a 12 oz metro jar with the glass glow?

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Hi Newbie :)

One other thing that might be important for you as well. I love GG palm and have had much fun with it. While I agree that you pour hot (I think someone mentioned at about 200 degrees), make sure you check the flash points on whatever FO you use.

Some have flash points that are lower than 200 degrees, for those I tend to pour around 170 -175 just to be careful. Don't want to have a candle that doesn't smell great.

Of course that could be my paranoia LOL.

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Stella, what wick would you use for a 12 oz metro jar with the glass glow?

I saw that Stella hasn't replied yet so if you don't mind I can get you started.I ued to make GG in the 12oz. metro's too..I usually used a csn 14 but a couple of scents required a 16. HTH...:smiley2:

Kimmeroo:smiley2:

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Thank you. I bought some wicks from CS and they recommened CSN 12 but I accident ordered the CSN 14. That's why I asked to see if they work. So do I need to wick up with this wax or is it because of the jar?

I found it was because of the fo's. I don't make candles anymore so I really can't ellaborate on anything else..I only tested GG for 3months then we moved to a different county..I didn't want to start all over again building customer base...etc..good luck with it.:smiley2: If you need a test burner...I am here! LOL!!:cheesy2: J/K..

Kimmeroo

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Stella, what wick would you use for a 12 oz metro jar with the glass glow?
Sorry I missed your question, msalex... lemme check the records... for a 12 oz. metro, I used.... ummmm.... a CDN 12 and 10 (depending on the FO...). I was not happy with the metro containers I had for a couple of reasons: thin glass which heated up too much & tight lids which will break a scallop out of the top lip if "snapped on" too vigorously - so I don't use metros any more. You'll have to test with your wax/FO combo to see what works best for you, but the suggestions given in this thread should give you a good starting point.
I bought some wicks from CS and they recommened CSN 12 but I accident ordered the CSN 14. That's why I asked to see if they work. So do I need to wick up with this wax or is it because of the jar?

It's best practice to try several sizes of wicks before making a decision, especially with a new container or wax. When I tested the metro jars, I used CDN 10, 12 and 14 - the 12 was the best of the three for my candles. If you don't have a sampler pack of the CS CSN wicks, it really pays to have extra in various sizes on hand when testing.

I use 1 oz. PP FO for my GG and other palm wax projects. No problems with that FO load at all. HTH :)

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