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Trying to Single Wick a 4" apothecary with cd wicks in cb 135...


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Lorrie

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You might also try Lorrie, she has offered advice if needed. She sells the soy you're using. Hopefully I'll be testing right along with you by next week.

ChandlerWicks, my account is under 30 day's so I can't search for Lorrie to ask her about my wax. How would I look her up?

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I would start a thread with her name in it. She came on the other thread we were on to offer help: Pour Temps for El Millenium. Or her website as Beth posted.

QUOTE=Aimee81;942036]ChandlerWicks, my account is under 30 day's so I can't search for Lorrie to ask her about my wax. How would I look her up?

Edited by ChandlerWicks
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This 4 inch apothecary has plagued me for a while now, while I am not using CB135 but IGI 4630 it does behave like a soy wax more than a paraffin (IMHO).

I am now testing a CD-22, nice large flame and it just might make a FMP but it is not eye appealing to me and I know once the flame dips below the glass sooting will be an issue. The double wick is more appealing and easily makes a FMP. The issue is the wick drown during the second half of the candle burn. I can't figure it out. This is true with CD, HTP and LX wicks, a great first have of the candle burn and then they die out. I've tried 3 sizes of each of the above wicks, all do the same thing. After this CD-22 test I will go back to double wicks and revisit the CD-4 and CD-5. Testing ECO wicks comes to mind but I know nothing about them.

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I am not using CB135 but IGI 4630 it does behave like a soy wax more than a paraffin (IMHO)

The issue is the wick drown during the second half of the candle burn...

I am now testing a CD-22, nice large flame and it just might make a FMP but it is not eye appealing to me and I know once the flame dips below the glass sooting will be an issue.

The paraffin content makes a difference. This topic deserves its own thread given that you are using a parasoy rather than straight soy. People familiar with your wax may not reply to a thread about CB135.

Pic on left: 8 oz apothecary jar (4 inch diameter) with EL Millenium soy wax CD 22 wick. Lit for 7 hours 45 minutes and this was the final result.

Pic on right: same jar and same burn time but using EL Container Blend Soy wax CD 22.

In both pics I showed the largest hangup on the jars. The other side of Container jar had jus a sliver of hangup. Other side of Millenium jar had about 1/4 inch hangup.

Both look fine for a first burn for this size container. The one on the right 'shroomed slightly, probably because of the length of time of the burn. Try burning for 1 hour per inch of candle diameter.

Edited by Stella1952
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I hope you're able to reach Lorrie so you can get an answer to your question.

rjdaines CD-4s are my new best friend!

the reason I let the candle burn past 4 hours is because there was only about 2 inch diameter melt pool in 4 hours. In a 4 inch diameter I didn't think 2 inches in 4 hours was a good first burn, maybe wick up or 2 wicks?
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I notice a lot of people talking about the cd-4? Are you guys double wicking with cd-4s? If so I am kind of amazed. The only successful double wick I have had on 4" apothecaries were cd 10, 12, and 14.

and RJ, if you go with Ecos start with double wicking with a pair of eco 10s

Edited by 001
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Perhaps it depends on type of wax/FO% & quality of FO?

I notice a lot of people talking about the cd-4? Are you guys double wicking with cd-4s? If so I am kind of amazed. The only successful double wick I have had on 4" apothecaries were cd 10, 12, and 14.

and RJ, if you go with Ecos start with double wicking with a pair of eco 10s

Edited by ChandlerWicks
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I primarily use c3 at 5-7% no dye. Smaller wicks for me end up not getting a fmp and drown later on with 3.5-4 hour burns. I also noticed that some of you are burning for 6 hours or more at a time, this is really not realistic for a customer. Most consumers burn candles for less than 3 hours. 1 hour per inch max. This is why a lot of people think Blankey or other major candle companies tunnel.

Now if you're doing a candle with a draft lid is a little different, you can slightly under wick and still get a great melt pool.

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I agree that waiting 6 hours to get a FMP in a 4 inch container is a bit long, however, I do not see this using either 464 (CD-5) or 4630 with (CD-4 or CD-5) double wicks. The time to FMP is closer to 3 hours. I have not used C3, so I can't say but using two CD-10s, 12s or 14s seems way outside my experience. A single CD-14 can do a 3.5 inch container with a variety of waxes. Now, my life is not a bed of roses with these wicks because at some point (usually half way) the double wicks start to drown out, maybe I am trimming them too severely.

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464 has a significantly lower melt point over C-3 (464 I believe is around 100, c3 is around 120) In 4630 I know cd3 and 4 work double wicked. I get a fmp at around 2 1/2 hours and it holds at around 1/2" through power burns with the 10, 12, and 14. I have also used two eco 4's in 4630 fairly successfully. 4630 is what I PL with if they prefer paraffin.

I've noticed though that people in the hotter regions have less trouble single wicking than ones in cooler region. I have never been able to single wick any veggie wax over 3" with a cd-14 even with very long burns. I also keep my home between 68-70. I had a candle swap with several people in much warmer regions and their candles did nothing but tunnel for me, but I know they work in other parts of the country. Just something to note.

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464 has a significantly lower melt point over C-3 (464 I believe is around 100, c3 is around 120) In 4630 I know cd3 and 4 work double wicked. I get a fmp at around 2 1/2 hours and it holds at around 1/2" through power burns with the 10, 12, and 14. I have also used two eco 4's in 4630 fairly successfully. 4630 is what I PL with if they prefer paraffin.

I've noticed though that people in the hotter regions have less trouble single wicking than ones in cooler region. I have never been able to single wick any veggie wax over 3" with a cd-14 even with very long burns. I also keep my home between 68-70. I had a candle swap with several people in much warmer regions and their candles did nothing but tunnel for me, but I know they work in other parts of the country. Just something to note.

Candle Science lists the melting point of C3 as 100F and Peak's list the melting point of 464 and 4630 as 115-120 and 125, respectively. At 100F, C3 would be problematic here in AZ and shipping would be dodgy. Now if that is no the true MP, what I said does not apply. Viscosity of the wax also plays a roll in which size wick one need. Here's a piece of the puzzle I have not mentioned yet. I can wick straight-sided container of the same diameter with not trouble so it's this container. Will try the doubles again with 4630 and these jars. If I fail, I will just use them for 464 with double wicks (CD-5).

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The candle science website needs to be updated the manufacturer states it is 125-130 but in my experience it is completely liquid at 120. Now 464 was a mess for me in hot climates, when I shipped to phoenix and LV in August it slumped bad (one candle ended up in the lid) c-3 made it with a slight slump (same package) 444 made it without much of a problem either.

I do agree with you there is something about those jars that make them hard to wick. This is why I am diligently looking for a 4" wide tumbler that holds more than 12 ounces of wax. I know libbey makes them but I have yet to find a supplier that stocks them.

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The candle science website needs to be updated the manufacturer states it is 125-130 but in my experience it is completely liquid at 120. Now 464 was a mess for me in hot climates, when I shipped to phoenix and LV in August it slumped bad (one candle ended up in the lid) c-3 made it with a slight slump (same package) 444 made it without much of a problem either.

I do agree with you there is something about those jars that make them hard to wick. This is why I am diligently looking for a 4" wide tumbler that holds more than 12 ounces of wax. I know libbey makes them but I have yet to find a supplier that stocks them.

Ahhh, thanks for finding that additional melt into and, yes, 464 can be a problem here in the summer. I add a little 444 in with it come summer time but need to test 444 it see if I can replace 464 with it. As far as the containers, I bought some 3.5" from Michael's for testing and reuse Slatkin 3.75" for testing. Have not found a supple of true 4" containers yet.

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I think we need to pressure some companies to start carrying them, I did look at the b2b catalog from Libbey and theirs are actually 3.75" wide but even those would be acceptable to me.

http://b2b.libbey.com/catalogs/b2b/catalog.html

Page 5 has them, they also have a 4.75" 18 and 26 ounce jars which would be great too for a 16 and 22-24 ounce candle.

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I think we need to pressure some companies to start carrying them, I did look at the b2b catalog from Libbey and theirs are actually 3.75" wide but even those would be acceptable to me.

http://b2b.libbey.com/catalogs/b2b/catalog.html

Page 5 has them, they also have a 4.75" 18 and 26 ounce jars which would be great too for a 16 and 22-24 ounce candle.

I think those Endessa glasses look very cool

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Yeah, the cylinders I am looking for (I call them tumblers because of blankey) The jar store has them but they are fairly expensive. 2.54 for the large ones. I just was looking for them without he lids (or... without those lids, I don't think they "fit" the style) I think Michaels has them, I might go get a dozen or so and test em' out. I do want to move in that direction for 2012.

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