Jump to content

power burning soy candles & melt pool


Recommended Posts

Thanks Stella...for your thoughts for me in the Power Burning Post in General Candle making section.

This has all got me thinking more about my power burning. I do power burn alot.

I use KY125, in the 10 & 16 oz Apothocary, no dye, and usually 1.5 oz. fo per lb, I use either 2 HTP 104's or 2 CD14 and for warm and cozy I use 2 60cotton in the 10 oz jar. In the 16 oz jar, with the fragrances that I can acctually get to work which is mininmal I use 2 CD 14 and warm n cozy 2 60 cotton.

Now when power burning...should I be concerned with a 3/4-1 inch melt pool? have tried 2 htp 83's in the 10 oz, but that is way to cool!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Powerburning is not the best way to test wicking and hot throw. It should only be performed (as a test) to see how the candle will perform if burned incorrectly by the customer.

I don't use apothecary style jars nor do I double-wick, so I am not the best person to reply here. I'm sure someone will chime in...

Basically, you are looking for a full melt pool on the second burn. The first burn should last about 1 hour per inch of jar diameter. Because soy wax burns slowly, it is not unusual for it not to achieve a full melt pool on the first burn nor is this actually desirable. If you wick to achive a quick full melt pool, by the time you reach the end of the jar (and testing should be conducted ALL the way to the bitter end of a container), the candle may be overwicked, producing smoke & soot and allowing the jar temperature to become too high (175° is the max container temp at full melt pool for ASTM standards).

I use CDN wicks because they are specially treated for use with veggie waxes. Two CD 14s sounds like a lotta wick to me. Perhaps you might consider lowering your FO concentration to 1 oz. per pound. If you do not get a good throw with that, you are burning money. ;) It is possible that your wicking difficulties stem from this factor. HTH :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Cherish:

Even though I no longer make double wicked apothecary jars, I use to. I also use the Kysoy125. I agree with Stella, if the fragrance and color you are trying to burn are not hard to burn ones, the 2 - 60 cottons are too hot of a wick.

Personally, I do not apply the inch diameter per hour theory to testing my candles. What I have found, especially with sox wax is, as long as your flame height is good; you have a great scent throw; there is not anymore than around 1/8" - 1/4" of hangup on the jar, and the consecutive burns are pulling the hangup down, do not worry about it. Once the wicks start to burn down into the jar; about 1/3 - 1/2 way, the jar is going to warm up enough to eventually pull all the hang up down, and will continue to do so the further down the wicks burn. Test burning the double wicked candles in this fashion, even with power burns, you will still burn all the wax (have a clean jar), and you won't have those huge meltpools, or the chance of the jar shattering with such hot wicks. Hope this helps some!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Create New...