Violetsexoticcandles Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Less than 3 weeks before the craft fair and they are cracking! Orange Chiffon Cake, used sunshine yellow dye block color. Poured at 165. Smells great but cracked multiple times! Used wick pins.Remelted and added 2 oz of beeswax to 1 lb V1 soy/pillar blend. Took wick pins out of the pic as I thought they were the problem.Some cracked.Took another batch I had made, Bailey's Irish Creame, with Brown dye block. Had cracked even worse than the first batch of orange chiffon, but decided to see if it was the wax or the wicks. Didn't use wick pins this time. Cracked just as badly if not worse. Red dye block, candied apple mix I made up. Cracked worse than ever with wick pins. I'm currently trying 1/3 C3 plus 2 oz beeswax. I've had this issue before, but it seems to crop up when I need the darned things the most! Then when I don't, it doesn't! Superstitious, I know ... but c'mon!I'm betting it's the dye! If the ones I poured tonight (or repoured, rather) come out cracked, I'm gonna try it without color. Or little of it.IDK what else to do... I've got nearly 50 lbs of V1 or I'd probably consider changing waxes for this.My tarts dont crack. Why votives?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violetsexoticcandles Posted September 7, 2007 Author Share Posted September 7, 2007 Update- the red repoured candied apple ones with the c3 mixed in haven't, as of yet, cracked. They have wick pins... Still room to crack, alas! Sigh! But there is hope!If this V1 doesn't work for me I just might crack at this point! How dare it, soo close to the craft fair date??GRR.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Are you adding any stearic to it or USA? NatureWax recommends adding stearic... here are their recommendations in case you have not seen them...Handling and Melting of Votive Wax (V-1)Step One: Melting of Wax – The wax should be heated to a temperature of 160 to 200°F to melt the wax up. Donot heat the wax above 200°F. If Wax is held at higher temperatures for long periods of time it will discolor.Always use a thermometer when melting the wax and never leave your heated wax unattended. While the wax ismelting stir the wax regularly to reduce localized heating of the oil. This will help to reduce burning of the waxwhile heating.Step Two: Adding of other ingredients – Other additives or ingredients may be added at any time to help improvethe performance of the wax.Step Three: Adding Candle Scent and Dye – The Fragrances and Dyes can be added to the wax after the wax is completely liquid. Make sure to stir the wax completely to ensure that the fragrances and dyes are completely mixed in.Step Four: Preparing the Wax for Pouring - After wax has been completely melted reduce the heat on the wax sothat the wax cools to a temperature of 145 to 165°F. This will reduce cracking and discoloration of the wax after ithas cooled.Step Five: Pouring Candles – Make sure that the mold is at room or slightly warmer before pouring the wax intothe mold. The wax should be poured in the mold while the wax is 145 to 165°F to reduce cracking and speed upthe cure time of the wax.Note: The addition of 5 to 10 % Stearic Acid will improve the performance of the Wax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violetsexoticcandles Posted September 7, 2007 Author Share Posted September 7, 2007 Thanks Stella. No, I've never tried stearic with this wax, but I have some and will give it a shot tonight. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TxSioux Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 I may have missed something, but 2oz beeswax is a lot. I've used EZ Soy & C3 to make votives & had cracking at 1oz beeswax & 1t PSA. V1 is already harder than the container soy & you're making it even harder w/ beeswax. I settled just below .5oz beeswax w/ the container soy & it makes a very nice, smooth votive that's hard enough to burn as well as any votive/pillar wax. I would guess you need to pull that beeswax way down & toss in some PSA to stop the cracking. I would also recommend about 1t of UA to hold on to the throw & burn time.Susan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violetsexoticcandles Posted September 7, 2007 Author Share Posted September 7, 2007 I may have missed something, but 2oz beeswax is a lot. I've used EZ Soy & C3 to make votives & had cracking at 1oz beeswax & 1t PSA. V1 is already harder than the container soy & you're making it even harder w/ beeswax. I settled just below .5oz beeswax w/ the container soy & it makes a very nice, smooth votive that's hard enough to burn as well as any votive/pillar wax. I would guess you need to pull that beeswax way down & toss in some PSA to stop the cracking. I would also recommend about 1t of UA to hold on to the throw & burn time.Susan.Susan,What's PSA? I thought I read that 2 oz per lb was okay- maybe I'm wrong. I've got some stearic and will be trying that tonite.Thanks,Violet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 V1 is already harder than the container soy & you're making it even harder w/ beeswax.I agree with Sue about the beeswax not helping the cracking problem at all. I tried 1 tablespoonful of beeswax per pound and it made the tops much smoother, and the wax less "powdery", but did NOTHING for the cracking issue. At first, I thought it did help some, but as the votives aged, the cracking became more profound. My next step is to try adding a higher percentage of USA to the next batch and leave out the beeswax. HTH:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Accents Posted September 7, 2007 Share Posted September 7, 2007 Just use some C3 with it. No need for the beeswax or stearic (PSA). Have to play to find out what's just right, try 1.5oz pp for starters. Try covering them as they cool, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violetsexoticcandles Posted September 8, 2007 Author Share Posted September 8, 2007 Just use some C3 with it. No need for the beeswax or stearic (PSA). Have to play to find out what's just right, try 1.5oz pp for starters. Try covering them as they cool, too.Hi Amy,I've tried C3 and have had cracking... tried stearic (which I have as well) and they came out ok, except they look mottled. Waiting on a clear batch now to see if it's the dye. Oh my what an addiction! GRIN! Votives and tarts do wear on me, though. But originally, before I became a candle-making addict, that is basically all I burned. So I will persevere!Vi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heidijo Posted September 8, 2007 Share Posted September 8, 2007 I make a lot of V-1 votives and add 3 ozs. of C-3 to 13 ozs. of V-1. Also, I read here about covering them with a cardboard box while they set up. So, I do both now, add C3 and cover with a cardboard box, and have never had them crack again. The box is now one of my cheapest, but most important, tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Accents Posted September 9, 2007 Share Posted September 9, 2007 So, Vi, are you getting them to turn out for you now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violetsexoticcandles Posted September 10, 2007 Author Share Posted September 10, 2007 The white ones I made with stearic (Fo White Tea & Ginger) came out pretty good. A little nipple around the wicks on some, but otherwise pretty decent. The Baileys Irish Cream ones that I remelted still cracked. I think I used too much FO with those, or dye. I kinda gave that batch up as a lost cause- remelted and poured into clamshells. Will make some more colored ones in a few days. Right now I'm working on a big order. Then back to prepping for the craft fair. Less than two weeks left! Yikes!!!:undecided Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carriegsxr6 Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 I mix my V-1 wax with C-3 wax at about 50/50 ratio. they will be a bit softer so they dont crack. You can do only 25% of c-3 if you are worried about them being too soft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violetsexoticcandles Posted September 14, 2007 Author Share Posted September 14, 2007 Hi Stella,I hope you are subscribed to this thread. I need some help again!I tried adding stearic to my votives- it worked with uncolored votives, but I've noticed that with colored ones, they're still cracking (although not as bad, but still, 3 out of 8 that crack isn't good!). I used 5% at first, then upped it to 10%... Didn't seem to do much.You mentioned USA. I've tried to find it and the only place so far is CandleScience and the site you mentioned (I forget what one). The shipping for just the additive is over $13 for me from both places, just for a pound! Yikes! Do you know anyone who uses USPS? Priority mail would be a lot cheaper. Thanks!!VioletAre you adding any stearic to it or USA? NatureWax recommends adding stearic... here are their recommendations in case you have not seen them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violetsexoticcandles Posted September 14, 2007 Author Share Posted September 14, 2007 Heidi- I think I'm to the point where I'm gonna try the box before I go and spend a ton of $ on shipping for Universal soy additive. And maybe add some C3 to it to see if that works. Ugh! I've got a week left and barely any votives to sell... which are great to have on hand because they're cheap for people to sample if they don't like tarts. So... 3 oz or 25%? I've heard both... as well as 1.5 teaspoons or tablespoons? I think I used too much C3 when I tried it before.... LIke 40%- they didn't want to come out of the molds so I had to freeze them, which caused them to crack. Argh.Thanks for your help!VioletI make a lot of V-1 votives and add 3 ozs. of C-3 to 13 ozs. of V-1. Also, I read here about covering them with a cardboard box while they set up. So, I do both now, add C3 and cover with a cardboard box, and have never had them crack again. The box is now one of my cheapest, but most important, tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted September 15, 2007 Share Posted September 15, 2007 Violet, JBN is where I get USA... I don't know if it is all the same from supplier to supplier:confused: (that's why I always specify...:rolleyes2). Unfortunately minimum shipping hits hard... I think it's a great idea to try a little C3 mixed in. I would surely try that before I paid a lot of shipping for only a pound of something that I wasn't even sure was gonna work out...I was surfing supplier sites last night and noticed that Cajun Candles has some new instructions for pouring votives with V1... Here's the link if you'd like to take a looksee...they didn't want to come out of the molds so I had to freeze them, which caused them to crack.Instead of freezing, perhaps just allowing them to cool longer, or a few minutes in the refrigerator wouldn't be so hard on the wax! Sometimes, candles that seem stuck will release better the next day when they have fully cooled and contracted... Do you use wick pins in your molds? Even a stubborn one will usually come out if I grab the wickpin with a pair of pliers and apply some muscle to it... I have also had luck with running warm water over the outside of the mold to warm the candle slightly and then pulling the wickpin with pliers. Never had any real trouble with them not releasing from the wickpins... My only "problem" mold is the little octagonal shape. It almost always develops mold vacuum and can be a b*tch to release... HTH:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violetsexoticcandles Posted September 15, 2007 Author Share Posted September 15, 2007 Hey Stella,I tried the box covering the votives- stearic and c3... warmed the molds in the oven. IDK if it was the color added (blueberry pie and a blue dye)... Cracked abit but not 'too' bad'. I think I can hit it with the heat gun in the AM...I then warmed some molds used 3 oz c3 and the rest V1 no stearic... they came out even better. No box....I think it's the color. I use dye blocks. I'm going to bed but hopefully I'll get some votives I can actually sell for the craft fair next Saturday!I do have to say that I made a marvelous Glass Glow container tonite!! It's blackberry * sage, purple in color, covered it w/the box and it's just beautiful!!!Yay for one accomplishment.Thanks Stella!VioletViolet, JBN is where I get USA... I don't know if it is all the same from supplier to supplier:confused: (that's why I always specify...:rolleyes2). Unfortunately minimum shipping hits hard... I think it's a great idea to try a little C3 mixed in. I would surely try that before I paid a lot of shipping for only a pound of something that I wasn't even sure was gonna work out...I was surfing supplier sites last night and noticed that Cajun Candles has some new instructions for pouring votives with V1... Here's the link if you'd like to take a looksee...Instead of freezing, perhaps just allowing them to cool longer, or a few minutes in the refrigerator wouldn't be so hard on the wax! Sometimes, candles that seem stuck will release better the next day when they have fully cooled and contracted... Do you use wick pins in your molds? Even a stubborn one will usually come out if I grab the wickpin with a pair of pliers and apply some muscle to it... I have also had luck with running warm water over the outside of the mold to warm the candle slightly and then pulling the wickpin with pliers. Never had any real trouble with them not releasing from the wickpins... My only "problem" mold is the little octagonal shape. It almost always develops mold vacuum and can be a b*tch to release... HTH:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted September 15, 2007 Share Posted September 15, 2007 I am so happy for you, Violet! No matter WHAT is causing a problem, it is like a cinderblock lifted when it is resolved!!Good luck making a BUNCH of 'em for your show!!! Didjoo say 1 week? Or is that 6 days now? :shocked2::tiptoe:...sneaking away before Violet throws a votive mold at me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violetsexoticcandles Posted September 15, 2007 Author Share Posted September 15, 2007 6 days if you don't count today because that is the day orf the fair! Yikes! And I just ran outta tealight wicks... or will have by the end of the day. Hoping they get here in time. Fun fun fun!!!I am so happy for you, Violet! No matter WHAT is causing a problem, it is like a cinderblock lifted when it is resolved!!Good luck making a BUNCH of 'em for your show!!! Didjoo say 1 week? Or is that 6 days now? :shocked2::tiptoe:...sneaking away before Violet throws a votive mold at me...Hehehehe!!!:tongue2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SherriLynn Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 I pour a soy beeswax blend and use 3/4 oz of beeswax, to 1 pound of soy. Anything more beeswax in my EL wax, will crack the tops of the candles, or when repouring ( seldom) will crack on the repour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violetsexoticcandles Posted September 17, 2007 Author Share Posted September 17, 2007 I'm still having 'some' issues with cracking. I've been adding C3 and it seems with the lighter colors, there's little or no cracking. But with darker colors like purple, brown and black, I get cracks still. Made a batch of witches brew yesterday and had some cracking. I'm probably gonna just make a couple more sets in the lighter colors and then work on the color issue later. I'm using dye blocks. Do you think liquid dye might help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted September 17, 2007 Share Posted September 17, 2007 It sure could have a bearing and would be worth your while to test this when you have time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violetsexoticcandles Posted September 18, 2007 Author Share Posted September 18, 2007 Just an update-I repoured my witches brew votives last night. Put the molds w/wick pins on a cookie sheet, then when the wax got to 165 I poured it while the sheet was still in the oven. Closed the oven and left it on warm for a bit, then turned the oven off.They do look better, way better. One has a sink hole but I think I can deal with one mess up compared to nine cracked votives!These had 3 oz c3, 13 oz v1 .5 oz stearic, purple dye. I'm thinking I'll try a different color today and hopefully this will have solved the problem. Another good thing- my pies are all done and tarts, too! My palm containers are all poured. Soy containers are almost all poured. Now all I have to do is finish the votives and make some tealights/tins if I get the wicks in time. And shrink wrap, label the votives... pack everything up... Ugh............................. Never thought prepping for a show would be this time-consuming.And I've been sick. Yuck. I'm going to take a nap. I'll probably dream about that pyrex glass that blew up on me the other day. La la la.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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