Lynn Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 Enough is enough...I'm at the desperation point and after much experimentation I need to pick your brains...After my jar candles cool and set up, each and everyone of them has a sink hole. Which of course requires some serious "topping off" with my heat gun. My jars are the square classic victorian from Candles & Supplies and I use the exact recommendation of FO per pound. My wax is EcoSoya CB Advanced and I melt and pour at the exact temp as recommended from their website. Then I tried pouring a few degrees cooler and a few degrees warmer, cooling the jars at rooming temp on my kitchen table ( ohhh, you mean those are for eating at?) and then cooling in a warming box. Warming the jars before I pour and then not warming them at all. I stir, stir, stir and add the FO right before I pour as well. After hair pulling, I'm thinking that the sink holes seem to develop in the same location where I initially poured, so...I tried pouring real slow and then pouring quickly and again, to no avail....SINK HOLES! I'm now at the point of obsession and need your help desperately! What in the world can I do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babyv Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 I would like to know as well. I just started making my own candles as well. I am on my third batch of testing with the same problem. I heat my 9 oz hex jars and I use GB444. I also cool them on my kitchen counter. No air blowing and repourt but I still get the hairline crack from the wick and a sink hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debra Phelps Posted September 6, 2007 Share Posted September 6, 2007 Ok, I have been pouring for almost 9 years. This is what I have learned. You have to burp your candles. They all come out with a hole around the wick, if not you need to wiggle your wick to get rid of any air bubbles. I use a toaster oven. I put them in on broil at 200 degrees. This smooths out the tops. Also it melts the tops just enough to be able to wiggle out the air bubbles. You will be surprised how many will have bubbles. If you don't get the bubbles out, your candles can burn right down the middle. The bubble gets under the wick and when you light it, there is a hollow part there, so the wick burns a little hole in the center. NOT GOOD. Some people dissagree with this method, because they think the oven will take the scent throw away. But that is not true. They are only in there a minute. It is much easier than the other methods.Maybe this will help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Posted September 8, 2007 Author Share Posted September 8, 2007 Debra...thanks for you response! I will definately give the toaster oven tip a try for I'm desperate to try anything at this point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CareBear Posted September 10, 2007 Share Posted September 10, 2007 at what point do you 'broil' them. when the candle is freshly poured? set up? cold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homecomfort Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 For me...the only thing I've ever done to be rid of sink holes was to cool the candles in a warmed oven turned off. I only make candles as a hobby so I make them 1-2 lbs at a time and usually at night after work. By morning, the oven has completely cooled and my tops are flat.Just something to try...maybe this'll work for you too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bren31 Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 I use GB 444 and pour at 135 and i heat my jar to 150 degrees and i seem to be getting a good top plus limited wet spots. If i see something out of place i use a heat gun to fix it. So far so good with 20 or so 16 oz jars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SherriLynn Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 I've poured EL container and votive soywax for over 6 years. The only time I've encountered any type of sink hole or crack around the wick, is when I've poured my soy too warm. Not always are the manufacturers recommended pouring temps correct. Depending on your geographical area, humidity, heat, etc you may find pouring temps to vary 5 to 10 degrees or more, from those recommended. Many say that EL should be poured at or under 100 degrees... I find that around 105 - 107 works best for me and 2 of my FO's pour wonderful at 110, they never seem to reach anywhere near the slushy point, yet don't frost either. Smooth tops, no sink holes and awesome throw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AAngels Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 I have not be doing this as long as all of you have, but after I tested the wax, it depended on that type of wax.I use Cargill C-3 and that has never happened but with the others it has. I don't know if this matters or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Posted September 11, 2007 Share Posted September 11, 2007 Lynn - see 1/2 down in this thread where we talk about adding stearic:http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3792The original version did not have this issue for me. The second version did.I think its personally the wax as Sherri said as, for example, I never had this issue with KY125 in years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Posted September 18, 2007 Author Share Posted September 18, 2007 Everyone...thanks so very much for the info! I can't wait to try all the suggestions and wish me luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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