Munch Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Can someone please tell me what I am doing wrong? I pour my candles slow and steady, let cure atleast 24 hours. They look fine on the top and then I light, sit and watch the burn. About ten mintues into the burn here it comes....the big air crater next to the wick. Which seems to lead the wick not performing and test ruined. Why am I getting the air pockets next to the wick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandgirl Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 After your candles have cooled and set up, do a re-pour, which is topping off your candles.This will fill in any air pockets around the wick.ETS.. It also helps with nice smooth tops... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munch Posted May 31, 2007 Author Share Posted May 31, 2007 Thanks for the reply islandgirl. I was really hoping that I could avoid the re-pour. What happened to the one-pour container theory . So, why does it happen on some and not others?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.S. Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 It would be helpful to know what kind of wax you are talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munch Posted May 31, 2007 Author Share Posted May 31, 2007 I'm using Ecosoya CB Pure Soy. I'm new to this posting thing so bear with me :smiley2: . I'm getting a little frustrated and thinking maybe I should try C-3 or Golden Brand 415. I want to stay with the Pure Soy. I don't know why a different company would make a difference but I'm grasping at anything right now as I've tested CSN, LX, ECO, RRD, HTP wicks and just figured it had to be the way I'm pouring or heating or not pre-heating the containers - have tried both ways - tried diff pour temperatures....I'm needing some candle mentoring...I've read all the troubleshooting guides and researched! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.S. Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 So the air bubble is right under the surface? I would just use a heat gun after your candle has cooled. Will smooth out the top and fill in the air bubble.I found HTP wicks to work the best btw. I use tumblers that are 3" wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carol M Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Your post seemed to indicate that you don't see the crater until after the candle starts burning, so a repour wouldn't help with that. I would go for the heat gun, also. Just melt the top layer to a depth of about 1/4" to uncover any hidden air pockets and they will fill in. I don't pour straight soy, but I do pour palm, which is notorious for craters, and that is the best way I've found to handle it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munch Posted May 31, 2007 Author Share Posted May 31, 2007 Not right under the surface...That's what is killing me. Would a heat gun get rid of the slight sink hole that seems to form half way between the wick the the container? I read that sinkholes are normal in vegatable wax but doesn't look very nice. I'll have to look at my test sheets again for the HTP - seemed like it didn't create a full burn pool? What size are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandgirl Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 I was really hoping that I could avoid the re-pour. What happened to the one-pour container theory One- Pour soy??? Have not been able to find it yet... (Could just be me being impatient) LOL:rolleyes2I like the fact you can pour the C-3 hot... I Hate waiting for the "Slushy" Stage..But I always get sink holes with it.. So the re-pour works for me!!!As RS said, you could heat the tops with a heat-gun, but I feel safer doing a re-pour and knowing all the sink holes/ Air pockets are filled in.ETS.. With a repour, it will fill in all the craters around the wick all the way down.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munch Posted May 31, 2007 Author Share Posted May 31, 2007 That's right Carol - After I start the test burn, only then does it show up about 15 minutes into the test. Ok NEWBY question you will get a laugh out of.. Where do I find a heat gun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.S. Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 That's right Carol - After I start the test burn, only then does it show up about 15 minutes into the test. Ok NEWBY question you will get a laugh out of.. Where do I find a heat gun?I use HTP 105s and have had no problem getting a full melt pool, but heavier fragrances I could easily wick up a bit.And I didn't know where to get a heat gun either, lol. Try Lowe's or Home Depot in the paint section. (As a favor for me, choose Lowe's since I own stock ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 I have the same thing happening periodically using Ecosoya cb advanced and an LX wick...not every time, but 15-30 minutes into the burn a big hole appears on the side of the wick....2nd burn it disappears so I really wasn't too worried about it. You are absolutely right about not seeing it at all until after the burn. I hate 2nd pours, never work for me, so I'm living with it! I am going back to strickly C-3 wax because it never did this and I can deal with the few issues I have with it....besides which I can get it much cheaper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munch Posted May 31, 2007 Author Share Posted May 31, 2007 Thank you SO much to All of you for helping this newby out! I am so happy to know you are out there and have this resource to help me. Lowe's it is R.S. What makes me a "Wax Drip" and you guys an "Enigma" Interesting...I bet that's in the FAQ somewhere - right. Thanks to everyone and look forward to more discussions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.S. Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 Thank you SO much to All of you for helping this newby out! I am so happy to know you are out there and have this resource to help me. Lowe's it is R.S. What makes me a "Wax Drip" and you guys an "Enigma" Interesting...I bet that's in the FAQ somewhere - right. Thanks to everyone and look forward to more discussions!Number of posts. It changes at 50, I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cindy/WI Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 I take a piece of a wire hanger that I cut into a smaller piece and just poke a few holes into the candle once it has set up. This way I can see if there are any hidden air pockets and then just use my heat gun and zap over the holes and fill in with wax. It does take a little more time doing it this way but I would rather find out myself if there's a hidden air pocket then sell it to a customer and have them return it, or worse yet have them spread the word that my candles do that. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laura Posted May 31, 2007 Share Posted May 31, 2007 i do exactly what cindy does, except i use a bamboo skewer,lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschoemehl Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Try sears they have them there. I think like 25 dollars well worth the $$$$. I am new at this to. My friend and I got the same thing with the holes then we got the heat gun it is no longer a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Late Night Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 I got a heat gun from Michaels but I forget how much it was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carol M Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Got mine (Wagner) at Walmart for around $20. That's been about 3 years ago, though. When you get it, you will use it for everything and be amazed that you ever got along without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Munch, the air bubbles all collect along the wick because they stick to it and it is in the center of the candle. As the votives are setting up, thump the table underneath or around the candle to help ease those bubbles to the surface. If you can get them all popped before the top sets up, you may have a one-pour deal on your hands. The heat guns work well - the surface wax melts and the bubbles start escaping. I don't like the surfaces of heat-gunned candles as much as I do when they cool naturally, but sometimes ya gotta do what you gotta do! Main thing is to wait until the candle is absolutely cooled before heat gunning, or you may cause problems you didn't have before! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candle Man Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 There seems to be some confusing in this post. Let me explain the difference.Sink Hole - That is a hole you can see around the wick. You need to do a re-pour to fill this kind of hole.Air Pocket - That is a pocket of air inside the wax around the wick you can not see. You need to poke around the wick and into the wax to feel for them, and open up the hole or holes. Then you can heat gun the top and you will see air bubbles rise as wax fills up the hole or holes.How & Why do Air Pockets form?... It's when the wax cools faster than the air can escape. They collect around the wick because wax cools from the outside in.I poke for air pockets in all of my container candles. You wll find that air pockets form more often in a cold pouring room or during the colder time of the year.HTH - Candle ManBTW - You did call it the correct name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Question for Candle Man...you stated to poke around the wick after the candle sets up and then use a heat gun...does this mean you don't have to do that 2nd pour? I get these air pockets or tunnels deep along the wick when I use Ecosoya CB Advanced wax. What you said about causes makes perfect sense now, since the Ecosoya is entirely different from C-3 when cooling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candle Man Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Question for Candle Man...you stated to poke around the wick after the candle sets up and then use a heat gun...does this mean you don't have to do that 2nd pour? I get these air pockets or tunnels deep along the wick when I use Ecosoya CB Advanced wax. What you said about causes makes perfect sense now, since the Ecosoya is entirely different from C-3 when cooling.If it's just air pockets, no you don't need to re-pour, just heat gun the top to fill in the pockets that you have poked.Maybe you didn't understand my post the first time you read it. Please re-read it again and see if it makes sense to you now.HTH - Candle Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munch Posted June 2, 2007 Author Share Posted June 2, 2007 Thanks for making the mystery even clearer. So, I wait atleast 24 hours until it's totally cured and wax is hard? Trying to figure the definition of "setting up". Is that right after the wax has turned white about an hour after the pour or is setting up considered the 24 hour wait time when it is totally hard? I Get the part about poking holes to look for air pockets. Just trying to figure out at what time do I poke?? What is the weapon of choice to do that? I see bamboo skewer, hanger.. and did the thump test on the testers today. You all are great and can't relay enough how much I :highfive: appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candle Man Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 Thanks for making the mystery even clearer. So, I wait atleast 24 hours until it's totally cured and wax is hard? Trying to figure the definition of "setting up". Is that right after the wax has turned white about an hour after the pour or is setting up considered the 24 hour wait time when it is totally hard? I Get the part about poking holes to look for air pockets. Just trying to figure out at what time do I poke?? What is the weapon of choice to do that? I see bamboo skewer, hanger.. and did the thump test on the testers today. You all are great and can't relay enough how much I :highfive: appreciate it.Yes, after the candle is completely cold, is when you poke for air pockets, in soft container wax. I use 12" long doll needles (I got at Hancock's Fabrics) but you can also use nitting neddles and the others you mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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