Vybar 260

[snow]

My question or questions....can you use vybar in J50. Since the 260 is for containers and helps eliminate air bubbles (which I have been getting a lot of lately) woulld the vybar help this? I did a search here and haven't really found the answer. I know J50 has additives in it, but would it hurt to try a little bit of vybar? TIA...Dee

[SatinDucky]

I would think adding more vybar would be detrimental if it already has additives in it...

[snow]

so then, what is vybar used for? And with what kind of wax? I'm searching for something to help with the air bubbles and wet spots in J50. I've tried just about everything. It just seems like its not adhereing to the jars good enough. I've heated the jars, cooled slowly, cleaned the jars, poured hot, & cooler, added crisco and tapped, whats left? If I heat gun them away, they look good, but they come back! aNY suggestions? TIA

[SatinDucky]

I am by no means an expert. Hopefully others will chime in. Where's Top when ya need him! Generally it is used in plain paraffin waxes. It says for containers because you use a lower melt point wax for them. 260 is designed for waxes with a melt point around 130. It's likely that vybar 260 or something very similar is what is already in the container wax. Some people prefer to use straight paraffin and put in their own additives.

You can try it anyway and see what happens. Sometimes you get happy results and will never know for sure until you try.

[fredron]

When I started using J-50 wax, NG suggested the Vybar to assist with the FO loading, stating it helps increase the amount of FO any given amount of wax will hold. Nothing was said about reducing air bubbles.

I still use J-50 as a starting point for my blends, but even when I used it straight, I never got air bubbles.

What is your melt temperature, what is your FO addition temperature, and what is your pour temperature? Do you heat your jars? Do you use any other additives?

My process is: Heat to 190-195 degrees, pour into pour pot, add FO and color, stir well to mix, cool to 150, stir again, pour into pre-wicked, heated jar, place in cooling box.

This works for me, and no bubbles.

Fredron

[snow]

I heat my J50 (double boiler method) to 180, add color stir, add FO and stir for 2 mins., take it off the heat and cool to 150. Stir again and pour into pre-wicked, heated jars. Let cool. But as they cool it looks like the wax is not sticking to the jars in all places. Its hard to explain whats happening. I use the salsa jars and it looks like half way around the jar it does not adhere and the other half is. But when I heat gun it, it seems to adhere and all these tiny little bubbles come to the top. It doesn't effect the burn of the candle, cause I tested that. And the scent throw is awesome, but I hate how that looks. I even tried cooling them in the oven and I wash all my jars first. I think I'm just obsessed with this and would love for them to just stop doing this! But I think I'm doing everything right. I wonder if anyone else has this problem. I don't want to change waxes, cause everyone likes the scent throw that I have. But thanks anyway, what wax are you using?

[topofmurrayhill]

Your fragrance is probably turning the wax into soda pop. Heat the wax to 180 or a few degrees more and take it off the heat to add FO. Also make sure the jars aren't burning hot when you pour.

You may get some variation in batches, but generally J-50 doesn't adhere very well. If you care a lot about wet spots that might not be your ideal choice of wax. Cool as slowly as you can.