Mexitan Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Has anyone else had a problem with Candlescience new palm wax releasing from pillar molds? My regular palm just slips right out, but I can't get them out of the molds! I've got them in the frig now, if that doesn't work, I'll take the heat gun to them.:undecided Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grama Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 I had no problem - I did spray mine with a little release spray just in case it was needed. It slipped right out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mexitan Posted April 22, 2007 Author Share Posted April 22, 2007 thanks, I'll try that. Have never had to use it before! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kay Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Has anyone else had a problem with Candlescience new palm wax releasing from pillar molds? My regular palm just slips right out, but I can't get them out of the molds! I've got them in the frig now, if that doesn't work, I'll take the heat gun to them.:undecidedI had no problem either & I didn't use anything. Now, I had problems with Nu Scents palm wax releasing, even with release powder. Make sure you received pillar wax & not container wax. That has happened to me before. Also i have learned that is you try & take it out of the mold when the mold is still warm to the touch..it slides out easier...try that. Be careful not to pull the wick out. I use plugs & glass tea light holder so i have to stand there & shake my candles out, but they usually slide right out after a few shakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mexitan Posted April 22, 2007 Author Share Posted April 22, 2007 thanks for the suggestions....I did let it sit overnight. I finally had to take the heat gun to it to get it out. My ball mold, it took some convincing, but finally got it out. I'll speak with Diane tomorrow at CT to see if there might be a possibility that they gave me the wrong wax. With my palm wax from JBN, it slides out with no hesitation at all! I love the pattern with this wax (from CS) much better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugenia Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 I had that problem with palm from Candlewic a few years ago. I was going crazy, hotter, cooler, freezer, fridge, nothing worked. Add a couple of TBS of stearic; that should solve your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candlelady Posted April 23, 2007 Share Posted April 23, 2007 I add stearic and have no problems at all too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flightoffancy Posted April 23, 2007 Share Posted April 23, 2007 I didn't add stearic and mine came right out of a brand new mold without any problems. I unmold while it's still warm so maybe that makes a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radellaf Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 (edited) I think there may be some QC problems. I need to test my 2nd batch of feather to be sure. Starburst (all from CS) stuck in my molds a d needed the fridge, while feather shrank perfectly to get few air pockets with no wrecking and literally fell out of the molds (5% FO). CS support wasn't clear when I asked them:- Is there much batch to batch variation and- Does starburst tend to be harder to release than featherThey gave me general mold release help instead and said palm wax should release pretty easily. Woe betide you with the glass glow in a mold, though. Had to put the votives in very hot water to de-mold those. I only did that b/c it worked before, but that was glass glow with maybe 5% beeswax or soyPB. A little of anything added seems to kill the metal bonding power.Feather palm is my favorite wax to work with. Only caveat is the shrinkage is quick, so timing is tight if you want multiple-layer pillars. Edited February 9, 2010 by radellaf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 First, clean your molds by placing them in the oven or using a heat gun to completely melt the residue & wipe out with a towel. Don't use water or soap on metal molds! It causes oxidation of the surface (especially on aluminum) and destroys the "seasoning" of the metal surface (like on a cast aluminum or iron skillet).Second, add palm stearic acid to aid with release. I use 1 Tablespoonful PP, but as Eugenia pointed out, you can add more with no problem. I do this no matter WHAT kind of pillar palm wax it is or from whom! Using stearic acid eliminates the need for a spray release for me. I do not use silicon spray. If I DID use any release, I would use Pam or other spray veggie oil. Keep in mind, I pour lots of layered palm candles, so mine are often much tighter in the molds than a one-color pillar would be... Some batches of palm wax are "stickier" than are others, so be sure your molds have been properly conditioned and use stearic acid. It'll save you a lot of wear and tear on your nerves!feather shrank perfectly to get few air pockets with no wreckingWhat you need is NO AIR POCKETS of any size or the candle will not burn evenly. Feathering palm has smaller/fewer air pockets because its crystals are smaller. Large, showy crystals produce larger air pockets. It cannot be stressed enough with palm wax that cavitation OCCURS, period. It is a property of palm wax. If you do not mitigate this, there WILL be voids in the candle. Many small voids are just as bad as several big ones. Sometimes, votives can be more of a bugger to release than pillars... Best to demold while slightly warm. Adding beeswax or soy will NOT help with release, I assure you!! You should not have to routinely put molded palm wax candles in the fridge or run hot water over the molds. If you do, there's something wrong... HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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