So with all this interest in Palm lately.....questions from a newbie

[R.S.]

Background: When I first started making candles in the fall, I did it because I used to purchase Palm candles (jennioriginals line) and was really disappointed that I couldn't find something similar when she stopped production.

I used the double boiler method as I was learning. I couldn't get a consistent looking candle to save myself.

So I've moved to pure Soy, but now thinking about trying this Candle Glow line.

So my questions to those making container palm candles:

1. Are you using a double boiler method to heat your wax? Are you getting consistent results?

2. To help the slow cool process, I would heat up my fragrance oil on a candle warmer before adding. That way the wax didn't have a large 5 degree temp drop before pouring. Anyone else doing this? Was I weakening my throw by doing this?

3. Does the candle glow wax require relief holes and a repour?

4. Anyone adding any soy to the glow wax? If so what percentage?

5. I get beads of wax coming out the palm when it cools (and it looks like the soy).... are the two waxes not mixing well?

6. If you are doing relief holes and repouring, how are you making the tops look nice? ie: no repour line and some crystalization intact?

Thanks in advance!

[Jami]

I am NO pro in Palm wax. I have been doing a MAJOR trial and error today with the glass glow palm and all I can tell you is what I did wrong and what I did right lol.

Wrong:

I had my presto pot temp set on warm (not hot enough).

I poured into unheated jars. When I was pouring the wax it was instantly setting on the glass not producing a pattern at all.

Right:

I upped my temp setting between warm and 200.

I heated my pyrex glass in the microwave for 30 seconds prior to measuring the wax so it would stay hot.

I put my jars in the oven on 170.

Once I poured out the wax, I added color, then FO and stirred 2 1/2 minutes.

I grabbed a jar from the oven and put on my cookie rack. Poured the candle towards the center of the wick so it wouldn't splatter on the jar.

Let cool. No relief holes needed. I am getting beautiful feathered pattern on my jars.

Its my understanding if you add soy to palm, you are defeating the purpose of palm. You will soften the wax and remove the crystalization pattern it produces.

I am sure those who are MUCH more experienced will have great advice. I just thought I would share a VERY beginner palm wax experience today and what I was doing wrong then right. I couldn't have done it without the help of everyone who answered my questions too

[R.S.]

Thanks, I look forward to more responses. I would heat glassware as well. Not sure about add FO and color once in the jars, that seems messy. I prefer adding to pot before pouring. And I was heating to wax to at least 200. Where in the problem lies I think. I suspect I wasn't being consistent in the heating with the double boiler method and by cheap little candy thermometer.

I preferred adding a little soy to the wax (sort of settled on 7.5%) and it had little impact on crystallization, in my opinion. And I liked softening the wax a bit.. think Palm is too hard by itself.

Thanks for the quick response!:smiley2:

[Jami]

I don't mix my color and FO in the jar. I measure out my wax in a pyrex measuring glass, add color, stir then add FO and stir before pouring into my container for the candle. I have seen a few people who actually prefer to mix everything right in the candle jar but I don't see how they get a good blend with the wick in the way.

Thanks for letting us know that soy doesn't hurt the crystalization. I was wondering about that since it does soften up the palm some. I did notice on my first palm candle that I made it did pull from the jar a little. Maybe I will experiment with the soy to see if that will resolve that problem.

I had alot of problems with inconsistency using a pour pot and double broiler method. That is when I decided to try the presto and I love the ease of it.

I did post a couple links to my candles that I made this evening with the glass glow. I just LOVE that wax

[Candle Man]

If everyone on here, that is using this glass glo palm wax, is getting amazing cold & hot throw and looks, just as it is, then why add something to it?

From the number of posts on here all you need to do is... melt wax at about 200*F, add color & FO and stir then pour into a wicked & heated jar and let cool very slowly. When cooled, trim wick & add label and your done.

BTW - When I get some to test, I will have to poke around and see if the "one pour" is true or not. It may have hidden air pockets around the wick.

[Jami]

BTW - When I get some to test, I will have to poke around and see if the "one pour" is true or not. It may have hidden air pockets around the wick.

That is what I want to find out as well. It just seems way to easy to not have SOME kind of glitch lol

I will be testing tomorrow. I also used a variety of wicks to see how the palm burns compared to my soy combinations.

[flightoffancy]

BTW - When I get some to test, I will have to poke around and see if the "one pour" is true or not. It may have hidden air pockets around the wick.

I poked around in my 16 oz apothecary and didn't find a single air pocket.

I was going to poke around in the pillar too but it was too pretty to mess with plus the pillar itself won't get burned since it's an everlasting.

[grama]

For both my pillar and jar candles I heated wax in my version of double boiler which is actually an old presto pressure cooker with a steamer basket inside it - heated to 190 add color - well actually I added the color about 185 and at 190 added fo, stirred good and poured into unheated jars and mold. Cooled on a dish drain turned upside down so there was a good 6" or so for air to flow under it. No relief holes in container - not necessary - no repour either. On the pillar I did do relief holes and then I just filled them in good with little wax left over that I scraped like into a powder and filled up holes. No repour on this either. Both turned out fine and burning great. I only heated 1 lb at a time since I was experimenting! When I do larger batches I will use presto. hth

Inless something changes my mind this is the easiest wax to work with, no wet spots, no little pin holes on pillars. Just perfect wax so far. Would love to just go with palm, though I think it will make finished product a little more costly. I read where I think it was Jakalex that said it seemed all fo work good with this palm. - If you didn't say something to that effect Jakalex forgive me. Have read so much hear lately get confused who said what

[snow]

I find this wax easy also, but how much fo are you using, mine isn't hot throwing as good as I'd like it to. I used 1 oz pp.

[Mexitan]

I've had to take the heat gun to two of my pillars made from the glass glow from CS, cause I couldn't get them out (trying to make an everlasting with votive), and there were no tunnels or holes in the pillars. i was impressed with that. It does behave differently than the palm I'm using, will just have to get use to that, but the pattern is so much prettier!

[flightoffancy]

I've had to take the heat gun to two of my pillars made from the glass glow from CS, cause I couldn't get them out (trying to make an everlasting with votive), and there were no tunnels or holes in the pillars. i was impressed with that. It does behave differently than the palm I'm using, will just have to get use to that, but the pattern is so much prettier!

You used the Glass Glow for pillars? The GG is for containers so if you're using it for pillars then that's why they won't release from the molds.

Since you're doing everlastings and won't be burning the actual pillar I don't see why this wouldn't work unless you find that the GG starts melting around your insert. You can try adding some palm stearic to the mixture, might help it release from the molds.