school marm Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 Hello! I have a question about wicking & soy. I have been testing with EcoSoya & switching back & forth between CD & Paper Wicks. I'm now testing with PureSoy (EcoSoya). I am using studio jars 4oz, 14oz & 20oz. For the 4oz, I'm using CD6 & CD8.....14oz....CD10.....20oz....CD16 & CD18. I have found scents that I really like, but I'm not getting the throw or burn that I am looking for !! How can you tell if it's the scent causing the problem? Should I test without color or scent first? Also....I know there was a past post about testing.....do you really get a good test from switching wicks between burns? Right now I am making full sized candles to test for all of my jars and burning until they are finished. Any advice would be helpful!!! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mariascandles Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 I too am having problems with soy...I'm not getting the throw that I would like to get. I'm still in the testing stages because I'm just starting as well, and I've been testing with an 8oz mason, 12 oz Morgan and a 16oz apothecary jar. My frustration is the lack of throw, and I even let my candles cure for 2 weeks prior to burning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
school marm Posted April 19, 2007 Author Share Posted April 19, 2007 I've been testing my candles w/in 24 hours of pouring. Maybe I should let them cure longer. I've read posts on letting them cure but I've also read that you could test earlier. Are you changing your wicks between burns? I feel like I am wasting a lot of wax by pouring full jars with different wicks but I really want to get a proper test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mariascandles Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 Yes, I do my test burn on all my candles, measuring the burn pool, checking my wicks to see if I like how they are burning, etc. Then I start from scratch and make all new candles. I had heard for the C3 wax that you must let them cure. I let mine cure for 2 weeks before I burnt them. I just had someone else tell me that I should let them cure for 3 weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
school marm Posted April 19, 2007 Author Share Posted April 19, 2007 Thanks for the advice!! I'm going to make a new batch this weekend and I'll let them cure for 2-3 weeks...hopefully I will get better results. Thanks again and good luck with your candles! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mariascandles Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 Your welcome...good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flightoffancy Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 The easiest way to begin your testing of wicks is to pour your wax into the jar without wicks. Take a skewer or something similar in diameter as your wick and poke a hole into the center after the wax has set up. This way you can cut the wick tab off the wick and just poke it into the hole you made. If the wick isn't right just pull it out and try the next one.The only disadvantage to doing it this way is that you won't be able to burn the tester completely down because the wick isn't secured. But, it does work well enough to let you know if the wick is going to work or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stacien Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 Cd's are usually great wicks for throw. Studio jars are graduated jars with smaller tops and wider bottoms. It might be throwing the air flow off in the jars a bit preventing proper throw. A lot of people who make candles don't always figure that equation with those jars. another reason is the types of FO's the percentage you are using. You can push it to 1 1/2 oz per lb. But there should be no other reason why can't get any throw with that wax. Usually its container blends that are iffy. Those 14oz and 20 jars reach way over 3 1/2 inches in diameter. Are your wicks reaching all the way across when they get to the bottom of those jars with 1/4 inch melt pool depth at the least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
school marm Posted April 20, 2007 Author Share Posted April 20, 2007 Thanks for all the help!! I am getting a better melt pool if I double wick the large 20oz studio jar but still not the "fill the room" fragrance I am looking for. I'm putting in 1.5oz of Fo. Is anyone using the Ecosoya? I see most of the posts are the C3. I'm wondering if I should give C3 a try. Thanks for the wicking advice!!! I will try the skewer and switch out the wicks!sharon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flightoffancy Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 I use Ecosoya Advanced and love it. I did try the C3, among MANY others, and kept coming back to the Ecosoya. I have tried just about all of the wick types with this wax and have found that the HTP's seem to work best for me as far as scent throw.I ordered some of the new CSN wicks from Candle Science to try out over the weekend hoping to be able to more accurately single wick my apothecary jars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlc Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 I use CBA too and along with what everyone else said you do need to let them cure for at least a week before you test for ht. 24 hours isn't long enough for some fo's especially with CBA. If it doesn't have ht in a week or so, I would ditch that fo if you are trying to sell the candle but that's my opinion I have some fo's that throw great and some that don't throw woth a darn even after curing for weeks, but that is also true with some other waxes that I have tested. Some are "keepers" and others are "dumpers" HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soycool Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 As you know a wick is not responsible for the throw it is the melt pool it creates. I have used ecosoya pure soy for about 2 years, decided to try 444 this year for a better scent throw. I am sticking with my pure soy, I had terrific luck with a number of cs fo's, that was last year, I tried different suppliers this year and think I may have just got duds, around 20 samples of them to be exact. Which made me try another wax, I tried some other oils from Peaks and they also worked well in my pure soy. I use 3 inch diameter jars that are frosted. I started with lx 26's for that jar, but have also had excellent burn pools with eco 12's and sometimes a htp 105. cs's cranberry marmalade and hansel and gretels house are two that will for sure throw for you, not to mention everybody loves them.HTHNatalie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
school marm Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 As always....thanks for all of the help! YOu guys are awesome!!! It's good to know I'm on the right track...I will definately take everyones advice! Well...I'm off to start pouring!!! I'll keep you posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lodestar Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 :highfive: Hi all- whew! Found a place where I could get some help perhaps. K, I'm kinda new at this. I know the basics of candlemaking & have made a few. Now my question is how do you know the good scents? Seriously is there a difference? What do you go with the cheapest, or what? I make the soy/vege. Also I need to learn the art of wicking, help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juggy Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 :highfive: Hi all- whew! Found a place where I could get some help perhaps. K, I'm kinda new at this. I know the basics of candlemaking & have made a few. Now my question is how do you know the good scents? Seriously is there a difference? What do you go with the cheapest, or what? I make the soy/vege. Also I need to learn the art of wicking, help?Wicking is a PITA. I have been using CDs in soy but am trying out LX. One thing I have found out the hard way is that straight jars are easier to wick than jars that curve out. Before I buy any FOs, I research the forums and find lists that state which scents throw in soy. They usually work for me but sometimes they don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 Check out Candle Science's fo...they are great and throw great even in all soy wax. They rate each fragrance for throw in soy. I'm using them now and most of the problems are gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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