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Posted

So I was wondering if anyone else ends up with tops like this after a repour? Maybe I repoured too soon as the wax on the inside was still a little too hot. I was told that hit it with a heat gun and it should smooth it out. Anyone else have any suggestions as how they fix this problem? DSCN0973.jpg

Posted

That is kinda strange. I've only got that when I have messed around with my wicks while it was cooling. I have heard somewhere that this happens to some people when it is cooling too quick and they had to insulate them while cooling and this stopped happening. Might try that on the next one...unfortunately I think the only thing to do to fix this one is to take a heat gun to the top.

Posted

Well besides the crack- it looks good. I haven't ever used soy so can't help you to as if it's the wick. I also only have that problem when I accidently move the wick. I would say just zap it with a heat gun and it will fix it right up! What scent is this by the way. Great job Bill :highfive:

Posted

I get that every once in awhile ... pooring cooler seems to help. I use a 50/50 blend; for best results, I have to pour at around 150. When I do get the "wick thing" or cracking ... I use a heat gun.

By the way, nice color ... what did you use?

Posted

I am curious, when is the best time to do a repour? I always get a seperation line when I have tried that. .

I use C3 and melt about 10 degrees hotter and repour in about 3 hours after it has set up a little, using a 3 1/4" jar. first pour is melting at 175, pour around 145 to 150 (so I don't get frosting). Tops are smooth though just that dang seperation line.

Posted

Cowgirl,

I use C-3 also and I never have to do a repour. Why do you repour? Not enough in jar?

Bill, sometimes my tops look like that but I just use a heatgun. It's usually when my wicks are messed with or my kids shake the table. LOL

Missy

Posted

MissyK, I have tried and tried but for some reason I get a huge air pocket by the wick under the top surface. I have tapped the jar, done everything. So I decided to poke a relief hole and try the 2nd pour thing. Yes, I know this is a 1 pour wax. My old farmhouse is so drafty I don't know if that makes a difference or not, huge rooms and hard to control the heat. I have tried cooling in covered boxes etc. I tired the heat gun (on low) then that produced my jar adhesion to look like crap. I have poured slower, poured cooler, poured hotter. So, that is why I decided to try this way. I sure would take any suggestions you have though.

Posted

Cowgirl, usually when I pour cooler and slower it helps with the air pockets although sometimes I still get them. I'm surprised your heat gun doesn't help. My heat gun is my life saver. I heat my wax to about 170, cool to about 140 and add FO and dye, pour at about 125-130. I usually don't have any problems but the draft you are in may not be helping. If I do get air pockets, it's because I pour too fast or too hot IMO. I have never done a repour though. Let me know how it goes for you. PM me if you have any more questions. I'd like to help if I can.

Missy

Posted

Thanks MissyK, I am just trying different ways right now. I suppose by the time I get it figured out summer will be here and I will have different problems.

Posted

Bill,

I get that every so often with my 50/50 and it's an airpocket, nothing a shot with the heat gun can't cure. I'm like candlebuddy I need to pour slow & at a low temp, but with my blend I don't need the repour. You're doing nicely...keep up the good work.

Posted

By the way, nice color ... what did you use?

That is red liquid dye and a touch of black. Thought I would get a deeper red, not purple?

Posted

Use brown with red to get a deeper red. If you use black you get mauve. I did an 8 oz merlot scent with 2 drops red, 1 drop brown, 1 drop black and got a fantastic deep burgundy and no burn issues.

-Kristi

Posted
I've had that result with my candles. The heat gun works. I didn't see what kind of wax are you using?

Eco Soya Container Blend

Posted

The same thing has happened to me but I use 4630, so I guess it don't matter whether it's soy or paraffin. But yes, the heat gun works well. I never have a completely flat top, there's always some imperfections, so I always have to use the gun no matter what. And I'm by no means a pro, I'm still just testing.

I actually like the look of the non-flat top (not sure what to call it) b/c it has the hand made look, similar to hand-dipped tapers, but I don't think I'd get an even burn that way. Just my :2cents:

Posted

Hi Bill I've used both Ecosya CBA & CB135 & had it happen with both.

A good blast with the heatgun has always sorted it out, try concentrating the blast on the wick area so that it melts a bit more than at the edge of your container & it will fill any holes under the surface. HTH.

Sally.

Posted

Cowgirl I have the same problem as you. I have to do a second repour because of airpaockets by the wick so have to poke holes and then I can see where the 1st and 2nd pour were.

Posted
Cowgirl I have the same problem as you. I have to do a second repour because of airpaockets by the wick so have to poke holes and then I can see where the 1st and 2nd pour were.

I was poking a hole after they cooled the next day and trying to use the heat gun, doing the repour, all kinds of things etc. Tonight after 2/3 hours of cooling (when the tops looked like they were setting up) I took a skewer and poked around just to see what would happen. Now I have a hole by the wick but I think it will be easy to fill in by taking the heat gun. At least I can see how big the air pocket was, before I was always worried if it filled in enough because it was under the surface. Hope that made sense.

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