Clarify on testing

[lilredheadsis]

I understand that I should test every batch of wax I make, should I pour a small voltive to try or how do you all of you suggest.:embarasse

[cybersix]

If you do votives yes, if you do something else you have to test everything you do.

You can start with votives to get confident in weighing, adding fos, additives, pouring, re-pouring, but then you have to test exactly the candles you want to make.

I make pillars, so I need to test wicks fos additives in relations to dimensions of the mold I'm using.

Just focus on one type of candle and try wax and wicks, additives if you need them, then start using different FOs.

It's a lot of work to do, but if you take in the right way it can be funny and it sure it's precious experience.

HTH

(I've been making candles for two years, now, but I learn something new everyday)

[Scented]

Test every kind of application you plan to use.

[Darbla]

How large are your test batches? (1) Do you make a batch for test only, or (2) do you make a real batch, test a few out of it, and if they're good then you proclaim it a successful batch? (3) Or do you make a single test candle independent of a batch?

I'm making votives using the (2) one I want to make sure I'm doing this the best way possible.

Thanks,

Darbla

[Stella1952]

Darbla, I get the impression you do not know what you are testing for. Each shape or container has different properties. Each FO has different properties. Each case of wax may have different properties. Each dye color (or combination) has different properties. So, you test for all of those variables to see if, after wicking, the candle burns properly ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM and the hot and cold throw meets your approval; and the overall appearance and quality of the candle itself (no unintentional mottling, frosting, fingernailing, cracking, change of color, etc.). You test in ALL the containers you are planning to sell.

If you do a search on testing, you will find some nice forms folks have shared as well as many tips.

I make one tester for every size container and every FO and color. If I am using the same ingredients for another batch, and I have already tested that combination, then I do not need to retest unless I am opening a new case of wax, or a new bottle of FO or a new bottle of dye, etc.

If you are new to candlemaking, you may want to do a lot of testing before making a "for sale" batch. You can test all the seperate features of the candle - just the wax; with dye, no FO; with FO, no dye; with FO and dye; etc. Test in the containers you plan to use. Testing a votive is not gonna tell you much about how an 8 oz. apothecary candle will burn!

Many folks don't use wicktabs for testing their containers so that if one wick is wrong, they can pull it out and insert another one easily. HTH

[bren31]

also a sharpie and a journal book or MS excel is very handy. I use the sharpie to mark on the container wick FO dye and wax/additive. This way when i make a bunch of samples at 1 time i dont get confused to what each one is. Also a small drill bit or sewing needle to create a hole for the wick. Making your candles wickless and adding a wick will save tons of wax when testing. Make sure to write everything you do down i write down

wick size FO amount wax type and how much wax i use dye color dye amount weight of the container empty weight full and notes.

[Guest highflier]

Not only do you have to test each combination, but you will also have to test each new batch of wax when you re order to make sure it burns the same. I switched over to J-50 about 4 months ago. I ordered 2 full pallets. It took me 2 months to wick every scent that we had, burning each one from top to bottom. I started off with the smallest zinc wick (2) 44-20's in 16 oz. apoth. jars. I made two test candles of each scent. One with (2) 44-20 and another with (2) 44-28 wicks. Which ever one burned the best is the wick I used for that fo. If the 44-20's burned out and the 44-28's burned good then that is the wick I used. If the both burned out the I remade that FO again with 44-32's and 44-36's and did the same thing again until I found the smallest wick that would burn to the bottom.

I say all this to get to the point of testing each new batch of new wax. I am fixing to order 4 pallets of new wax. I had the company I order from send me a case of wax to test before I went and ordered 4 pallets of wax to make sure it burned the same. Well it did not burn the same as the wax I started out with. You see just because I ordered J-50 again does not mean it will burn the same. It burns exactly the same on the first 4 burns, nice 3/8-7/16 melt pools with 3/8-7/16" flames at the end of a 4 hour burn. Then on the 5th-6th burn it only has 1/4-3/8" meltpools and 1/4"-3/8" flames. Then the 7th-8th burn it will not even get a full melt pool in 4 hours and the flames are hardly a 1/4". I tested with the same batch of wicks, and the same FO. I do blend a small amount of soy into my wax, but I used the same soy that I used in my first batch. The only thing that changed was the J-50. I have for the past 2 weeks added more soy, less soy, no soy, and they all burn out at the same point. It looks like to me it is clogging the wick because I still have a 1/4" wick on the 7th-8th burn but a very small flame. I even tested another batch of J-50 and it did the same thing. I will keep trying to make this stuff work but I'm started to run out of ideas. I am now adding straight paraffin to the J-50 to see if that will help, since that is the only thing that changed in my formula.

So you see why it is very IMPORTANT to test each and every batch of wax you get in. If I can figure it out, then I will make about 6-7 candles and make sure they burn correctly. If they all burn the same as my first batch of wax then I will no I have a wax that will burn all the candles the same way as my first batch of wax did. So keep testing and don't get discouraged.

Mike