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Anyone using Ecosoya CB Advanced?


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I have been testing this wax a lot - both the old and new version. I loaded up the scent in both versions. At first I couldn't get barely anything from the old version, then I let one of the old version sit for a couple weeks while I focused on the new stuff. I relit the old one recently and it is totally filling the house with scent now. So maybe all this wax needs is time to make the scent throw better.

I like the looks of this wax much better than others I have tried, and I think it behaves more stable than some of the others. I'm going to keep trying it and just give it more time to cure.

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I have been using this wax (old and new versions) mixed with 20% EZ soy and it seems that some scents throw great in it and some do not. I've had better luck with floral and fruit scents in this than I have with bakery type scents. Some people, myself included, have had trouble with fo seeping with this wax in warm temperatures. I just read on another board that NGI is recommending adding 2% stearic to help with the seepage so I'm going to give it a try. I wish everything were already in there so I wouldn't have to mess with it.:tongue2: In spite of it's flaws I do like this wax, it makes really nice looking candles that burn cleanly and easily, and some of the scents I've tried in it have been absolutely wonderful.

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I really like the cb advanced...I put 1/2 teaspoon of palm stearic acid in 1 pound of wax...(I was getting sink holes and this solved the problem)..

Do you let your candles cure with the lids on or off?...What FO company do you use?....Thank you for your replys I apperciate it very much.

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I poured some candles the other day with the stearic using a little less than a tablespoon per pound and they set up beautifully with no seeping as of yet - it was close to 90 here yesterday. I cure my candles with the lids on and have used fo's from various suppliers. Millcreek, KY, Snowtop and The Scented Bean have some wonderful scents that do very well in this wax - I think they do more testing in soy and don't stock oils that don't perform well in it. I've read some posts that say they don't get any throw whatsoever in this wax but that has not been my experience. There have definately been some that threw better than others but I've never had any with no throw at all. Have you had any like this Ellie? I typically use 1-1.2 oz. of scent per pound, add this at about 160 - 170 degrees and pour between 130 and 150. I like wicks that don't curl in this wax like LX or paper core because it has such a low melt point that the CD's and HTP's tip over too much if the melt pool gets over 1/4" or so. They also give a nice even melt pool where as the wicks that curl always give me an off center pool. Not too many of us seem to like this wax but it has so many good qualities that I'm not giving up on it. With a little tweaking, I think it makes terriffic candles!

PS - try the Scented Beans Cranberry Bliss or Millcreeks Storm Watch if you want to see how well this wax can really put out the scent ;)

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I never had a candle that did not give anything....Just a light scent..But I was using the bakery scents also...I do put 1 oz ..just like you..but I do add my fragrance at 125..right before I pour...Could this be my problem?..Maybe the oil is not binding to the wax?...Plus I cure with my lids off for 48 hours...What do you think? I am using the CD's in this and I have been getting a full melt pool and a clean flame..I use the Heinz german coreless wicks. I am using the quilted jelly jars and 16oz mason jars..

Here are 2 that I made just playing around..I just love the smooth top..using this wax..there are slight sink holes..but this is before I added the stearic acid

P033.jpgP0301.jpg

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I use this wax but have been doing a repour. I'll try the stearic because that is one additive I have not tried yet (tried vybar and bw), BUT, has the stearic caused any frosting or wetspot issues for you? I assume you are all using the "new" version of the CBAV?

I don't use too many FOs. The ones I use are mainly from ShawMudge, WYW, and CandleCocoon (mostly the latter two). CandleCocoon specifically tests their FOs in all types of waxes (there is a test forum on her board) not sure about WYW. I use 6% in CB AV and 4% in paraffin (1343) and paraffin/soy blend (6028) and all the ones I have tried so far from CC and WYW have been good overall. There was only one WYW that wasn't a good thrower IMO that I have tried. Some, like WYW's Cinammon Stick, Wild Mountain Berry - and pretty much ANY of the "top shelf" ones, CC's Vanilla Voodoo, Seashells, Lemon Blossom are extremely strong in general. I use LX wicks for almost everything, but have been trying to get ahold of some more fil-tec wicks to continue testing. I generally use one size smaller in this wax than in other soys since the meltpool gets pretty deep and you don't want the wicks to flop over. (That is why I want to test the fil-tecs btw). I add FO at ~ 165 and pour around that temp if I need to do other things. If I want to lessen the chance of holes I'll pour at 130. This would be in 2.5" jars.

Some other things from other posts:

http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1113016238;start=

http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1113179160;start=

http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2196

http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=892

HTH

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Hi there

Henry..I heard Vybar does not work in soy..Is this true for you?....A heatgun also helps with the tops...I have had some frosting with certain FO and dye..Sometimes you just cannot eliminate all of the frosting. I seen in the one topic that you use 10% FO..I seen on a website that 6% is max in the advanced soy..otherwise they will seep

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Very pretty Ellie! I'm not really sure if curing with the cap on or off makes a huge difference, I just do it to keep dust and stuff off the tops. I let them cool overnight and cover them the next day. I would definately try adding your fragrance at a higher temp. I've read many posts about this and how it does help the fo bind with the wax thus increasing scent throw.

Henry, I still have no frost with the addition of stearic. Someone on another board heard from NGI that you can use 2-4% but at 4% it may increase frosting and may change the wicking. I used just under a tablespoon per pound which I believe is around 2% and it doesn't seem to have changed the wicking at all. No wetspots with the new version and stearic either, (had some with the old version though) they're just beautiful! I am using 4" apothecaries and I do warm them before pouring.

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Ellie-

Henry's threads are worth reading; they got me through the switch to this wax! (:wink2:'s for Henry!)

You are adding the FO's at too low a temp; I heat this wax to about 180-190, add FO"S, stir, stir, stir till I can't see the FO 'swirls' at the bottom of the pot. Then I pour, so I'm pouring at about 160, sometimes even hotter depending how warm my shop is. I don't use color at all. I've never heated my jars or my pots; never had sink holes or any real disfigurment with this wax. Never had any frosting either. The tops set up smooth as silk, after the pour as well as after each lighting of the candle. Never a 'bump or lump'. I have had this wax darkren, like a darker cream color, when I left the wax in the melter for too long at like 200 degrees! That was my own stupidity; like for two days at that temp! As far as the scent throw, it gets ten times better with a little age on it's side! I let mine sit until they're firm; several hours, again depending on the temp in my shop; then I lid them. Some FO's are better in just a day, others take a little longer. I've even delivered an order the day after the pour. I've never had a complaint or even a question about the strength of the scent. Anyone's sniffer is better than mine!

By the way, where in PA?

Gretchen

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Not Henry, but he and I both tested Vybar in soy and if the soy has a tendency to frost, it will do it quite a bit with the vybar in it. With the FO percentage, it all depends on what the wax will hold. There are some waxes that will hold 10% or more, and some that will only hold about 5-6%. Mine does fine at 9-10%, but I can usually get by with most of mine at 8%. I also use beeswax in mine and it helps a lot with the frosting and the setup after burning. Haven’t tried the stearic, but glad you are getting good results with it. That’s what it’s all about is, doing what works best for you.

Just a sidenote: Not sure why, but something I have noticed lately is that the jars I single wick sweat more than my double wicked jars. Henry, does that sound strange to you?

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Kerry, that does sound wierd - but this summer is so hot (thankfully its almost over) I've had many bizarre results also. Just guessing but I assume the 2x jars have more wax and that it takes longer for them to heat up and sweat as opposed to the 1x? - who knows :)

I just poured two 3" containers tonight with the CB advanced (new version) to test stearic as an additive. I used a soy-based dye chip (just had to try them), 4% WYW "Bamboo" and exactly 2% stearic. I poured one at 165 and one at 125 (and am crossing my fingers. :P )

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Curious to see how your wax does with the stearic in it Henry.

You know it's weird, the double wickers don't sweat, only the single wickers. Maybe your right. I guess since I double wick more, that maybe I just don't notice it as much.

edited to add: Henry, how big are those containers you poured in, above?

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Those are 3" jars I'm testing for christmas candles. I bought sets of the three frosted jars at http://shop.candlesandsupplies.com/candles/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=Candles&category%5Fname=Christmas+Items&Page=1. I wicked them with an LX26 and an LX28 since I usually wick my 2.5" jars with a 24 in this wax. May have to try a 30 also. After that I'd go with a cotton - but I'd rather not use cottons because of the mushrooming - plus all I have right now are Peaks and I don't know if their hottest one will get a 3" in soy?

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I remember trying the C85 in the 8 oz sq mason I am testing and I don't think it quite made it to the edges (can't find my notes), and it mushroomed horribly. It is a 3" jar. But as you know, many times it will test differently in different jars, in different conditions, for different people. LOL! The fun of wick testing.

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Henry, your candles look awesome! Glad the stearic worked for you. I haven't had any air pockets with this wax - just one more reason for me to like it :D . Please let us know how your burns go with the stearic and how the scent throw is with the Bamboo, been wanting to try that scent. I'm betting the 26's will be plenty for that size jar as I can wick a 4" with an LX30 no problem unless it's a super heavy oil. I have found no need to double wick with this wax - it's so cool - I get a beautiful 4" full melt pool that is smooth and level and sets up perfectly every time. Gotta love it!

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Just an update. Here are two 3" candles with an LX26 on the left and a 28 on the right. These first two are after 2 three hour burns. The last is after 4 or 5 three hour burns. The 26 was clearing the sides better earlier, but the 28 catches up on the subsequent burns, so the 28 has a bit more film on it than the 26. Should mention I did not have the 28 centered perfectly either. The 26 however flickered more than the 28. So either one will work in this combo, but I'd probably pick the 28 for now at least. I took one without a flash so you can see the small bit of film on the 28 (which as I said, does melt off on subsequent burns). There were no hidden sink holes in either of the candles.

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Great Posts everyone, very informative! I also am using ecosoya, but the older version. Henry, your candles look awesome! I love the way you show pictures from beginning to end. It gives me a better idea of how mine are supposed to look while burning. I'm having such a time trying to figure out the wicking. I think i've finally gotten it for my containers, now if I can just figure out the wicking on my dang Pillars, i'll be happy.:rolleyes2

Thank you!

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