botanica Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 I've been searching in the forum to try to answer this question for myself, but without luck- so here goes! I've been testing 16 oz and 24 oz apothecary jars w/ a 4" diameter. I use ezsoy wax, fo and have been testing eco wicks. I've tried two eco12's and am not getting a full melt pool. Should I just bump it up to the eco14's? What if a particular fo needs a bigger wick? Does anyone know how the rrd's compare to eco's? If I use the rrd's where should I start? Thanks!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henryk Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 Can't answer your question about the jar or wax - and I just started messing around with RRDs and ECOs myself - but for me it SEEMS that an RRD 47 is comparable to an ECO 12 in my wax/jar.Don't know if this helps you .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakalex Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 I would start with two rrd 34's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everito Bandito Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 one eco 14 should handle the 16 ounce....if not, remind me not to buy either the ezsoy :smiley2: or whatever fo it is. j/k.....wicking can really be a pain sometimes...keep at it...you'll get it. With the 4 inch diameter 24 ounce you might want to try triple wicking. At any rate, best of luck to you. The process can be very tedious but worth it in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
botanica Posted July 25, 2006 Author Share Posted July 25, 2006 Yes, it is turning out to be a pain but I'm sure it will be worth it! Thanks everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 beware when using the larger ECO wicks, 10,12,14, especially with a heavy scent load.I have found that when using with veg wax that these wicks have a habit of curling up instead of self trimming, especially once the containr has burned over half way down.This can lead to a 'double wick', and give you problems.If possible,I would recommend you try RRD wicks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyru007 Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 We use pure soy wax and it is definitly a pain to wick. ECO wicks are great, except in the larger jars. They seem to drown out easily. Definitly a single ECO will not work in a 16 oz Apoth candle of Soy. I've tried both ECO 14 and an HTP 1312 single wicked and they both will not give you a full melt pool. I got close using 464 due to the low melt point, but not 415 or Ecosoya CB-Pure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest candelecandlecompany Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 Just a thought.....I use C3 and I double wick the 16 oz. with eco 6 and I triple wick the 24 oz. with eco 4. I get full melt pools with both of them. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
botanica Posted July 26, 2006 Author Share Posted July 26, 2006 Since I'm just getting started with soy, might I ask, is C3 a type of wax? If so, then it must be very different than the ezsoy. It seems with the ezsoy I'm having to use a much larger wick, even with a double wick. Both my 16 oz and 24 oz containers have the same diameter...4". Thanks for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
botanica Posted September 18, 2006 Author Share Posted September 18, 2006 So, I've been testing testing testing...and I've moved on to triple wicking my 3 7/8" apothecary jars. I reached a full melt pool using ezsoy with 3 RRD40's without any FO or dye. So, I added 1.5oz of fo and dye and bumped the wick size up to rrd50's (just because that's the only size I had). With this new size, I've reached a full melt pool within an hour, but the flames seem to be getting smaller in the second and third melt. It seems that reaching a full MP within an hour is quite fast, but then the flames are so small. Can anyone tell me if this is this normal? I really appreciate any help because I'd like to eventually make a decent soy candle here...:rolleyes2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jessiec Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 I have not gotten these 3 7/8" apothecary jars down to perfection, but I can offer you what has worked so far for me. Straight ez soy, dye, 1 oz. fo pp. I am getting close with dw eco 6 or dw rrd 47's but I did feel like the glass was getting too hot for my liking with extended burn times. In case you didn't see my post, my last tester had an issue with the nicely trimmed eco actually curling down into the mp and extinguishing itself. So I am rethinking these guys.I know what you mean about having to wick up with this. Straight soy is a bugger. I am now trying to dw the htp's again. Previous tests showed me flame height that I thought was insufficient. But, I will keep going around and around until I get it. I am determined to beat this jar!!! Hang in there and know that you are not alone!!As for your flames being too small and you feeling like you need to wick up so high...... maybe you could try leaving your wick just a touch a longer instead. I keep mine around 1/4 and I do not have to wick up quite as high as you are having to. Maybe adjusting the wick height will help you out.I forgot to add.... maybe you could also try reducing your fo to 1 oz. pp. There are some wonderful quality fo's that are unbelievable throwers in pure soy and really do not need more than 1 oz. pp. Good luck to ya! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
botanica Posted September 18, 2006 Author Share Posted September 18, 2006 Thanks for the support. It's good to have this forum because I can't imagine how long it would take me to figure it out on my own. I haven't been trimming the wicks at all. I love the look of these jars, so I'm determined to stick with them. Yeah, I was thinking I could use less fo and see how it goes. Actually I did see your post about the eco wick drowning, and the same thing happened to me. It happened on the second burn within 1 minute of being lit. That cancelled eco out for me. I need results--Christmas is coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carriegsxr6 Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 I would start with two rrd 34's.Ditto!!!I use the 10oz apothecary (i think these are 3.75 or 4 inches wide) jars and two RRD 34's are hot enough. I use 7% Fo and also color them. I usually test burn for 2hr increments and sometimes dont reach a full Melt pool until the 2nd test burn. Be patient, it will reach a full melt pool with two RRD 34s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
botanica Posted October 9, 2006 Author Share Posted October 9, 2006 So, my wick testing saga continues, but on a brighter note! I decided to go to the source...bcn, which is where I get my wax. They have a wonderful chat function on their site to help out us desperate chandler's. I spoke with Flicker at length, and she helped me figure it out. So, now I'm using two cd's. I love this wick! I had really good results with most of my scents, and am still testing. I'm on my way! So, if anyone is still in the dark about this wax and jar, try cd's. You can start with 12's and move on from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creeksidecandles Posted October 9, 2006 Share Posted October 9, 2006 We here at Creekside use RRD 34's and 37's for our containers. We also double wick them. We found the RRD series to work best for us. IOHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordan Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 So, my wick testing saga continues, but on a brighter note! I decided to go to the source...bcn, which is where I get my wax. They have a wonderful chat function on their site to help out us desperate chandler's. I spoke with Flicker at length, and she helped me figure it out. So, now I'm using two cd's. I love this wick! I had really good results with most of my scents, and am still testing. I'm on my way! So, if anyone is still in the dark about this wax and jar, try cd's. You can start with 12's and move on from there. I never had much luck with the RRD's either, they tend to lay down and customers don't know what to do with them so many times. I am a CD wick user, and I am testing the LX series currently. If you get into a pickle you can also try Hemp for double wicking. I use them in my apothecary jars. They don't fizzle out halfway down like other wicks do. In my 4 inch jars I use either 2 1200's or in spicey or vanillas, 2 1400's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lsbennis Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 We here at Creekside use RRD 34's and 37's for our containers. We also double wick them. We found the RRD series to work best for us. IOHO.Creekside...every time I have tried to DW with RRD 34's my jars got so hot you can barely touch them...then if I put in a larger RRD like 55 and 65 I get major soot and a turbo wick and anything in between does not work...whats a chandler to do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrchips Posted October 11, 2006 Share Posted October 11, 2006 I've just about given up on ECOs. Had some really strange results in Eco CBA in a 3 inch container. Using ECO12, the first burn is great, nice melt pool after 4 hours. Second burn they just fade out to a sad little flame . They haven't bent over into the melt pool, they look as if they are coming unthreaded. The strands in the tip come apart and the wick looks like it has holes in the top 1/4 inch.I've tested LX, CD, HTP and RRD now, and all behave themselves just fine. Most odd.Boyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
botanica Posted October 11, 2006 Author Share Posted October 11, 2006 Ok, so for all you soy veterans, could someone please tell me exactly what the "ideal" burn would be for a pure soy candle? I'm having really good burns with the cd's for some of my fo's, but was wondering what some guidelines may be...such as how fast to reach fmp, if a little hangup is ok, how warm should the jar be, how quickly should the wax be burning off, etc. I know that some of this will be subjective, but what exactly constitutes a safe, good burning candle? I know this seems pretty basic, and sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrchips Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 I'm certainly not a soy veteran, but will gladly share my thoughts and experiences after 6 months of testing with soy (I've almost stopped using paraffin, I much prefer soy now).You'll see most people quoting that you should get an inch diameter of melt pool per hour. So a 3 inch container melts to the edge in 3 hours. In reality I find that mine get to 1.5-2 inches in an hour, then slow down as the pool gets bigger. I have a 3 inch container and get a .25 inch deep pool after 4 hours, once it's had a couple of burns (see below).I tend to get hang ups on the first 2 (sometimes 3) burns, then it catches up. By the time I'm at the bottom of the container there are no hang ups. You get more heat buildup when the flame is near the bottom, so any hangups from earlier soon slide downwards.I can handle my containers while they burn. I'm not recommending that you do this !! I'm just saying that they're not too hot to hold. Again, when the wick is right down at the last bit the container is hotter, but I can still hold it.Your burn rate depends on the size of the wick. Bigger wick = faster burn. If you feel that it's burning too fast, you may need to look at a different wick. I found ECO wicks to be a bit 'hungry'. I can get an equivalent melt pool with a smaller capacity LX, CD or HTP. This means that my candles last a bit longer and throw better.Hope this helpsBoyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
botanica Posted October 12, 2006 Author Share Posted October 12, 2006 Thanks Boyd!I guess I was figuring that by the 3rd burn I should have a full melt pool. I'll have to give it more time. Do you think it matters if the wick has been trimmed? For instance, the other day, when I was going to light one, I accidently bumped the wick and it broke down to at least 1/4 or less. That candle burned really well on the previous burn, but then was a little sluggish. I figured that 1/4" was ideal, though. I hadn't planned on trimming those wicks...do you trim your cd's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stacien Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 I usually wick my 160z with two CD 12's sometimes two 14's if the FO is real heavy like coffees. I only like to use Eco's single wicked because some of the posts are right they do tend to curl up instead and then you get this enormous mushroom sized flame. I have seen RRD double wicks work pretty well. I was using two HTP 104 or 105's but the whole directional thing was too time consuming. Cotton 60's might work 62 burn too hot. That leaves only the LX which I have not tried yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrchips Posted October 12, 2006 Share Posted October 12, 2006 I don't think there's anything wrong with having to trim the wick ever now and then, particularly if it's just a tiny snip. If it's 1/2 inch that you're cropping off then there's a problem!I find that they tend to need a little more trimming as they get towards the bottom 25% of the container.Boyd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
botanica Posted October 13, 2006 Author Share Posted October 13, 2006 I usually wick my 160z with two CD 12's sometimes two 14's if the FO is real heavy like coffees. That wick combo seems like where I'm headed as well. But, even with two 14's, some of my scents just can't handle them. Tiny little flames and tunnelling. I guess I'll just have to keep going up. Thanks all for your replies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrchips Posted October 13, 2006 Share Posted October 13, 2006 Tiny little flames and tunnelling. I guess I'll just have to keep going up. You may find that wicking up won't help either. You may need a different type of wick. Maybe the FO is just too thick and gloopy for that wick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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