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Wicking 8oz metro w/ lx and rrd


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Um, okay. I'm not an expert with the RRD wick, so please take this with a large lump of salt. I tested some square masons with Ecosoya 135 and an RRD 40 and I believe they burned pretty well (I don't have my notes in front of me). Square masons generally wick one size up from an 8 oz metro for me, so maybe start with RRD 37. Now, C-3 has a higher MP, so maybe the 40 would be the better way to go. Anyway, I know this isn't too much help, but hopefully should give you a jumping off point. :o

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Thanks Angela...I have sheets of paper in front of me with notes scribbled all over of what I see on here and will save for later. I have rrd 47 but can't remember why I wrote that down, grrr. You think the lx sizes are good though?

I wanted to add that I got a 1oz. sample of warm apple pie FO with my wick sampler order from Peak...it smells yummy!

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I use that jar a lot, my usuals are:

LX 26 for straight or cottonseed soy.

LX 24 for the advanced type soys.

LX 20 or 22 for parasoy blends.

Never used creme brulee - think that would be a heavy scent. Probably the above would work depending upon how much % .

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Normally it was right within the "1" per hour" rule for the soy/cottonseed blend I used way back when.

In looking at the C3, the congeal point of it is very close to the CBA I used to use and with that even if you wick down a size (26 to 24) you may find that the your melt pool just keeps getting deeper and deeper if you power burn them - the LX's never flopped over though for me. (RRDs did, but in a totally different wax. I'm thinking it might be pretty close since you are using that FO. Going out on a limb, put a 24* in it and give it 2 three hour burns - if it doesn't work the 26 should I'm thinking. Always heard creme brulee is a toughy FO - lots of vanilla in that I guess? (Too sweet for me!)

Do you like the C3? I've read good and bad here so I never tried it.

*Pour the jar without a wick, after it sets up stick an ice pick in the center and wick it. (Let it sit for at least a full 24 hours - not for the FO, for the waxes). Burn it a couple times letting it fully set up in between burns. If doesn't work let it set up for the final time and pull the wick right out, heat gun it flat, then stick in the 26 and try that. Once you think you got the right wick, burn it all the way down in periods of time in whatever way you usually test. The flames on the LXs can get a little big and the jar can get hot if wicked to large as they are only 2.5" inches (the perfect size for soys IMO!)

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I don't know if I have enough experience with the C3 to say if I like it or not. Appearance wise I have not had any wet spots at all, smooth top (thanks to AngelaVA and pouring at 180) and if I get a small crack or sink hole heat gun fixes it nicely. Cold throw stronger after a week cure time. Hot throw I'm not sure on since I've been having 5-6 test candles burning at same time so whole house smells great! I like it better than C1 so far but that's the only other wax I've tried for no other reason than I blindly picked these two to try out. I don't really know what constitutes a heavy and lighter scent yet but I would assume you're right that creme brulee is heavy. One of my cleaning customers said it smells like carmel to him. I'm going to do a 24 and 26 here in a few. Was waiting to hear from someone on rrd??

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Update: poured a lx24 and 26. Well on the 26 the wick came out of the metal tab (not sure what the official name of it is)...I didn't know what to do so I just pulled it out and hand straightened it as best I could and put it back in the wax until it touched the top of the tab with a popcycle stick holding it (luckly the holes in the stick I drilled are small so it was a tight fit). I may repost and ask this trouble shooting question but what do you do when that happens? I thought about making another glass with new lx26 wick but by the time I prepped the new glass the wax would of cooled way down. Maybe put the wax back in the presto and heat it back up to 180?? Dunno what I should of done so any feedback would be helpful in case this happens again :undecided .

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Update: poured a lx24 and 26. Well on the 26 the wick came out of the metal tab (not sure what the official name of it is)...I didn't know what to do so I just pulled it out and hand straightened it as best I could and put it back in the wax until it touched the top of the tab with a popcycle stick holding it (luckly the holes in the stick I drilled are small so it was a tight fit). I may repost and ask this trouble shooting question but what do you do when that happens? I thought about making another glass with new lx26 wick but by the time I prepped the new glass the wax would of cooled way down. Maybe put the wax back in the presto and heat it back up to 180?? Dunno what I should of done so any feedback would be helpful in case this happens again :undecided .

If you tug on a wick after pouring hot wax in the jar, it can come out of the tab pretty easily. What I do is use the Ez Wick thingy (I'll find the link for you). I set up the wick and wick-holder before I pour so that I don't have to move or tighten anything afterward. The EZ Wick thingy is really nice and also cheap.

If you find that your wax cools down too much before pouring, just heat it back up again in your double-boiler. :)

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Okay, here is the link for the EZ Wick system

http://www.ezwicksystem.com

Look for the "wick centering tool" - it's a little hard plastic thing that fits over the top of your jars. Because it fits over the mouth of the jar, it won't move at all after you pour. I used to use the wick bars that Peak carries, but they would move a little crooked, especially if I bumped the table or the wick bar would cut the wick. These things are much better. They are really cheap and they will ship them USPS in an envelope - no reaming you on shipping. They will definitely make life easier. :D

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Looks like they are no longer making the WCT for containers, bummer. Really neat device though!

I think I'm even more confused on the 24 & 26 lx wicks. I did a 3hr. test burn last night and FMP on 26 in 1.5hrs., FMP on 24 in 3hrs. This morning starting a 2nd test burn and on the lx26 I'm 2hrs. into it and no FMP yet and actually the lx24 seems to be developing a MP a little faster than the lx26. eye-yi-yi!!! I sure didn't expect this much difference between the 1st and 2nd test...is this typical? How many test burns should I do to know for sure how the wick will perform in the wax?

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No, they are still making the WCT for containers. I checked the site and it says they are not retailing them anymore - you need to get them from a distributor. Greenleaf and Bittercreek are on the supply list

http://www.greenleafcandlesupply.com/wicking_tools.htm

To know how the wick will peform, I would burn all the way down. Unless a wick tunnels horribly or is a complete torch, I burn all the way down to see what happens. Sometimes, wicks that seem too small will work better down in the jar, whereas the larger wick will get too hot down in the jar. I would burn both side by side for a while longer and keep taking notes on what happens.

Maybe Henry will have some more/better advice for you :)

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Ah, ok...misunderstood...thanks for the greenleaf link!

Ok, will keep on testing.

BTW, good luck on the bar for Monday...where do you find the time?! :smiley2:

Lol, I don't sleep much anymore. I honestly haven't been pouring or burning anything this summer, since I've done nothing but studying. But, I still manage to find time to waste on CT though, lol. I'll be sooooooo glad when this thing is over and I get my life back :D

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I can imagine...soon it'll be time for long work hours & no sleep instead of studying and no sleep, true? Keep us posted!

Very interesting wick results. Thank you for telling me to keep testing because it's obvious you can't make a conclusion from 1 3hr. test burn. So on my 2nd 3hr. test burn I got a FMP on the lx26 in approx. 2hrs. 45min. (remember the 1st test burn I got a FMP in 1.5hrs). Why the difference...no clue and it'll be interesting to see what happens on the 3rd 3hr. burn. Also, on the lx24 a FMP after 3hrs. on the 2nd burn but hang up on about 1/3 of jar...waiting to see if it'll catch up so it has gone longer than 3hrs. What I found the most interesting is the lx24 has less overall wax in it then the lx26. When you place the two side by side you can see an exact starting point and they both started out even. It's a noticable different on the lx24 having less wax. I'm still going to test and have formed no opinion yet of ether wick for this size container but with the 24 already having less wax in it makes me think it'll continue that way but who knows?!

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Looks like they are no longer making the WCT for containers, bummer. Really neat device though!

I think I'm even more confused on the 24 & 26 lx wicks. I did a 3hr. test burn last night and FMP on 26 in 1.5hrs., FMP on 24 in 3hrs. This morning starting a 2nd test burn and on the lx26 I'm 2hrs. into it and no FMP yet and actually the lx24 seems to be developing a MP a little faster than the lx26. eye-yi-yi!!! I sure didn't expect this much difference between the 1st and 2nd test...is this typical? How many test burns should I do to know for sure how the wick will perform in the wax?

Since you have two candles, burn each 2.5 to 3 hours 3 times. Don't worry about what happens initially - the wick is going to get more oxygen and the jar is going to stay cooler initially. And your wicks are trimmed right correct? We are saying "full melt pool", but really what you want is it going from edge to edge - don't worry about how deep it is at first. The LX26 getting edge to edge in 1.5 hours - is that on the first burn? That's worrisome. I do (usually) three burns) before I would expect a normal melt pool.

Yes - it is possible for a smaller wick to work better than a larger one because its not burning wax as fast so is tunneling less so stays on the same level longer - that allows the MP to go out further (that's my guess - I'm not a scientist!)

I just got up so if this is not making any sense I apologize!

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P7220198.jpgYes, the lx26 performed a FMP in 1.5hrs on the 1st test. Why is that worrisome...explain?

Sounds good about the 3 test burns, thanks.

Here's a pic of each candle...left candle is the lx26 (notice the bigger mushroom on wick) and right candle is lx24. But look at the amount of wax that is left from the lx24...you would think there would be more wax left from the 24 than the 26 but the 26 has more...interesting.

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OK, so if that on the left is a 26 after 1.5 hours on the first burn, what do you think will happen if someone burnt it for the evening - say 4 hours or so, especially after it gets further into the jar. My guess is that the melt pool will be very deep and the flame really high - and the glass would get very very hot.

Even though yours is a pure soy, its what I would call one of those "advanced" soys (its a non frost type soy right that you can pour hot?) - the melt point is pretty low - so you are getting that kind of a melt pool really fast. You would not be getting that type of pool in other soys - like say KY125 or the GL pure soy.

I think the LX 24 looks good (that's the one on the right correct?) - and I think you will see it will look better as you get further down into the jar, and the jar sides heat up more and assists more in the melt pool. For example that film should go away too (you can see it has with the 26 probably because the jar is so much hotter during the burn).

How much % of FO did you add? Probably that big of a mushroom on an LX is from the FO - creme brulee just may be that type - and if you load up on it, it will have a bigger mushroom. You may want to make an unscented uncolored candle and wick it with a 24 - just to see how much a mushroom you get - my bet is that you will get much less - however, all soys mushroom that I have used - I think its just part of the game.

Another thing that can cause more mushrooming is cutting the wick with dull scissors or something not sharp - it frays the braids and sometimes when you light it before it ever being burned you can even watch it fray out when you light it - and those become those hydra mushrooms

:)

This should lessen when you trim an already chard wick because the wax in the wick keeps it more together. See if that's what happens for you.

Personally, I would forget the 26 and for now burn the 24 and see what happens. Maybe others can give their opinion, but that's mine :)

post-98-139458405747_thumb.jpg

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Oh, and if you power burn that 24 and its starts getting a very deep melt pool later down in the jar - you may even want to wick down a size. Why? Because when people say "such and such a size" of wick - it really depends on for how long they burn it. You can see that with your 26 - it only took 1.5 hours! That would be your decision. I go by the 1" per hour rule BUT, I usually burn them for an evening - and if the melt pool looks like the one on the right on successive burns down into the jar, I consider that very good. If it looks like the one on the left, the 26, I consider that to HOT.

HTH

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Ok, yes that does help...thank you! I was thinking the same thing on the 26 so you confirmed that for me. So you think I should go ahead and try lx22 then? Was worried about hang-up on the side with a 22 since I did have that a little with the 24 but it eventually caught up. I'll try it though...what the heck :grin2: . I don't have enough FO left for making another creme brulee, grrr. I got a 1oz. sampler of hot apple pie from peak...you think that's considered a 'heavy' FO? Thanks for the info again!

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Here's what I would do. I would stop burning the 26 NOW and let it set up. Pull the wick out and heatgun the top. Put in a 22.

Now, start burning each for 2.5 to 3 hours at a time (assuming thats the standard you want to go by - that decision is up to you). After each burn let it set up FULLY (no warm wax before you burn again!), then burn again and again - and you will get a sense of how things go further down into the jar.

Anything with vanilla, cinnamon, lavender, patchouli types. Those are usually considered "heavy" and may require a larger wick. It depends though on the vendor and the FO itself - for example there is a light vanilla "plain bean" type FO I get from one vendor - and it just burned like pretty much everything other normal FO I used. Then there was this one which was a thick bakery type vanilla I used from another supplier (I can PM you if you care to know) which had to go up a size. Then there was this great lavender - I stopped even trying with it because the flames were so weak and I didn't want to double wick. So, it just depends really - but creme brulee - yes, that from everything I've read IS indeed considered a "heavy" oil. "Warm Apple Pie"? Never tried it. Cinnamony? Then maybe so, I would assume many of the bakery scents would border on "heavy" - but that depends on how long you burn them for again. Again, the only one I personally really had trouble with is lavender. (Never used patchouli).

Sorry, maybe someone else can chime in on your particular FOs. I would just test them with my chosen "normal" wick for a particular container - you really can't just guess. If it does bad, then wick up one size.

HTH

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