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Posted

Well, my first rustic try with 4045H failed completely. (The only other time I tried it was with 1343 and it was pretty good - guess that was beginners luck).

I'm remelting them right now so I would like some hints on what I did wrong. A search did find one thing at http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288&page=2&highlight=rustic+stuck+mold#13 . Tallbabydoll did one thing I did also - used a mold release. I made sure my aluminum molds were nice and coated with silicone spray, waited overnight to release them, and nearly all the rustic stuck inside the mold. In addition, I notice jump lines - but without the usual frost in them - if you know what I mean - even though the mold was room temp.

One other thing I noticed is that the layers did not blend in at all with each other - even though though you could see the wax "waving" underneath the surface of the "hardened" layer. I got very distinct layering after waiting 10-15 minutes per each layer, so I am going to try reducing the time between pours (makes it easier anyway). Maybe the 150F pouring temp I used is just to close the 143F MP of the 4045 (though I know you HAVE to pour cool for rustics, so I'll just wait less time between layers and see what happens).

If it matters I used ~2% (only had a sample) of GL's Indonesian Teak (believe me, thats all I needed to use!)

TIA

Posted

HenryK..Im having the same problem with my 4045H rustics. Very distinct layers, no matter how soon or late I pour. Its kinda frustrating but I keep hearing that practice makes perfect so thats all you can do. Good luck and if you find a method that works, let me know and I'll do the same!

Posted

Oh, Henry!

Mold release did you in with the frost. Putting it in the fridge

first does the same thing to me.

I do get disctint layers, but when you pour, are your SWOOSHING

the mold around in your hand so that the wax splashes UP the sides

of the mold, above the level you just poured? If you were doing this

you're correct, pour a bit sooner. If you were not swooshing

(technical term), try this next time.

Sorry for your loss. :cry2:

Posted

Thanks you guys. No loss, just remelted. Just learned something new.

That swooshing makes sense because the ONLY place I got any frost to stick on the candle is where a few drops of wax from a previous pour got spashed up.

I'm also going to stick with the 4.5" molds for right now - seems a bit more easy to control than the 6.5" with testing.

Can't remember if I used mold release or not with the 1343 one I did long ago (back when I went through my mottle phase). I know its not as good as the ones posted here, and its more jump lines than frost, but I liked it because it looked like a hunk of wood and went with some stuff on my mantle so I kept it.

post-98-139458404281_thumb.jpg

Posted

Henryk, I'm going to just add my .2c worth here too......

I never use mold release for rustics, and I'm 100% in agreement with Eugenia, you have to do some "swooshing." :D Make it as messy a job as you can. Slop some wax in there, and swill it around a little, then pour some more. Repeat with layers........

As far as the jump lines - in some candles I really like the look. That one of yours looks great!

Posted

Yes it's the magic swoosh :wink2: , now our secret is out. 3 X 4.5's are my standard size. I like the old one Henry. It's pretty, but I like the way the 4045H burns better. I think I will be in my rustic phase for a very long time to come. I gave up on the perfect mottle and only make them when they are ordered. Rustics I never seem to tire of.

Posted

Just got my 4045H in today but the mold I got to try it in was bent. Darn. Maybe it's best that I have to wait to try it till you all get the kinks out.

1. Melt wax add color and scent

2. pour a little wax into mold that has no mold release

3. sloch wax up sloppy on the upper sides

4. pour some more wax.

Not clear on what you do if making a solid color rustic. Do you sloch up the sides then pour the rest of the candle cooler? Is there a tutorial on this wax?

Also don't add any additives, right?

Posted

Hey Sharon, I got all the kinks out long ago LOL. If you are going for one color, add 3 TBS stearic per lb, pour at 150, poke relief holes as it's setting up. When pretty firm, pour the final pour at 175-180 degrees.

e

Posted

Got it!

Thanks Margaritamama and Eugenia first of all. All I had to change was do the magic swoosh and ditch the silicone spray and everything fell into place. These are just my second effort with 4045 and what a difference!

The other thing I did was since I didn't want definate layers I set a timer for 5 minutes only - then did it by "look" - maybe to about 8 minutes. I wanted kind of a frosty-icy green look for these and got just what I wanted. They look so much better in person - and I did have to color adjust these to get them to approach what they actually look like (never use brown craft paper as a back-drop - everything goes pink).

post-98-139458404368_thumb.jpg

Posted

Well I got my wax in but my mold was bent so got a replacement today. Also was checking some storage containers I have and found 4 more seamless molds. so about the bent one they said to keep, anything I can do with it? I don't see any way to straighten it out, has a dent on the bottom side and is oval instead of round. Do you all know how much wax a 4X4.5 will hold?

Posted

With the 4045 if you punch in for a round mold, and pour 1/2 below the surface, you will have about enough for the repour (using a 3x4.5" mold) when adding the standard 3 TBLs PP of stearic. Least it works for me.

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