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Aaha moment with Eco's CBA


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Hello all! Almost screwed up royal last night but caught myself jut in time! I had two pouring pots filled and scented and was doing the stir, stir, stir when I was called away for a moment. When I came back into my shop I stirred again then sat down at the computer for waht was to be just a minute. :rolleyes2 By the time I realized i had these filled pots, who knows how much time had gone by. I don't think it was an hour, but who knows. What I do know is the temp of the wax still in the pots was at 100 (We all know how slowly this wax sets up!); still liquid and very pouable. This wax doesn't seem to do the 'slushy stage', or maybe it does but we're just not brave enough to go there! Anyway, the long and short of it is this: this morning the candles look terrific! Smooth tops (not unusual) but without any wax climbing up the wick; anyone else have that sometimes? Also, here's the biggie, NO WET SPOTS! NONE! I mean absolutly nothing! I don't know how to explain it really, but these candles just 'look' different to me. They look great; not that when I pour hot they don't, they do too, but these just seem a bit different to me. Unfortunatly i won't get to see these candles over a period of time because they're leaving for delivery tomorrow, so I'll have to pour some more way way cooler than usual and see what happens. Double edged swoard really though if this actually does improve the wet spots senario. I like pouring hot because it's faster and I hate the idea of waiting for wax to cool down again. We'll see.

Gretchen

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I know people do mix waxes, but my train of thought say's, why? Candle making is challanging enough without adding variables! That's just an opinion. As for the scent throw, give it a couple of days or even up to two weeks (two weeks is what most people will tell you). The cold and hot improve with a little curing. what I love about this wax is I can do a 4" jar with one wick! And cleaning up after this wax is a breeze too. The other thing I like is the smooth tops after burning and it's hardened back up, unlike most soys.

Gretchen

By the way, the 135 is a much harder wax; just an FYI!

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It's the prettiest soy and the best to wick, both hands down. The smaller wick makes a much better 3 inch container as far as I'm concerned. I might even overlook the scent throw in favor of its other virtues.

I tested the version 2 but not the original. I would test the original now that they've gone back to it, but concluded the glass adhesion wouldn't be what I'm looking for.

Make some more of the cool poured ones and keep an eye on them. I would love to hear what happens with the adhesion. You might find that it comes loose very gradually over the course of days, but it would be interesting if it doesn't.

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Gretchen,

Thanks very much for posting that. I'll give it a try - even though I love being able to pour hot.

I have some larger jars (ginger and tuscany) I was thinking wicking with CBA. Can I ask what wick you are using for your 4" jars?

Soya, I know some folks on other boards where blending cba/135 80/20 to help the scent throw. This supposidly helps that without adding frost. Since I have both of these waxes now and need to make some valentines day candles I'll have to experiment and post back if anyone is intested.

I'm real curious if the wax will pull away poured this cool as CBA 1 has a tendancy to do. My CBA 2 NEVER pulled away - maybe I got freak batches or something as I think Top says his always did - see pic - this one is going on 4 months now with 100% adhesion. Now that I only have CBA 1 and 135 I'm determined to make it work the same - somehow ! :)

post-98-139458392849_thumb.jpg

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Bad news; even pour that cool there were still some wet spots; damn it! Anyone tried just putting the candle in a cool room to see if you can get the entire candle to pull away from the sides? Sounds too simple, I know.

Henry; I use the CD wicks for my 4 incher. CD 16 & 18 depending on the FO.

Gretchen

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Thanks Gretchen on the wick size.

Sux about the wetspots. CBA 1 always did that for me. After a while it usually pulled away completely, which is fine, but the color isn't as vivid. Plus, when you burn them - the meltpool will harden and stick. What you then have, or at least I did, is a ring of wax sticking to the glass where the meltpool hardened (which looked darker), while the rest of the candle was pulled away (which looked lighter). I'd really like to find a way around this.

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Henry I would love to hear about your findings mixing the 2 waxes. I am placing my order for the CB135 on Monday and will also start mixing and testing. I also went out today and bought beeswax. Thanks for the info.

I will post my findings as I go along. NICE CANDLE you have there!!!

Btw...I pour CB (ver 1) at 115 and my candles come out with perfect looking tops. Also I just poured 3 different scents and 3 colors last night and have no WET SPOTS at all. I did make some the other day that are pulling little by little. My problem is the throw :(. Guess I do need to give it time. Maybe I have candle nose.

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OK - sounds good. I think you may like just a bit of BW in the 135. No scientific proof, also many times I seem to have better results when just heating the jars a bit before I pour. Not hot at all (no oven), just a bit of heat from a heat gun or letting them rest on a warm radiator (if you still have those). At the very least it eliminates the "waves" you sometimes get at the top of the jar where the wax meets the glass when pouring soy cool. See difference in pic (pic on right is non-warmed jar).

I wish there was something to add to the CBA 1 to make it stick better. I thought about soy oil or something like that, but since the wax only holds so much oil that would cut down on your FO you could add. :cry2:

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Just so you know......I just checked on my candles...and 2 out of the 3 containers have no wet spots! THis is day 3. They actualy look perfect. I'm sure once they start to melt....they will start filling up the space between the container and wax giving it that Line though. The two I am talking about were made in thicker 3" glass tumblers. The one with the wet spot is thinner glass. This one pulled al the way around except in one area. I learned about wet spots from TOP!! We could also try mixing 135 with the ver2. I have some of that stuff too...or even eco pure soy. Somethings got to work with these waxes. I don't want to give up either. What temp did you pour those at Henry?

Something just came to mind. I bought a so called soy massage candle once at the spa. It was not rock hard.....it appeared to have some kind of oil or something....maybe olive oil. NOW, THAT WAS A PERFECT CANDLE! So you may be right about adding some kind of oil.

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Pumpkin Candle:

1. Poured at ~ 160 or 165 F.

2. CBA version 2

3. 3% stearic

4. 9% Candle Science Pumpkin Pie FO

5. Candle Cocoon "Jack O' Lantern" dye diamonds with a drop or two of liquid brown dye from Candle Science.

2.5 Jars:

1. Poured at slushy stage (around 100F)

2. KY125

3. 6% Lilac FO from KY Candle

4. Color was lilac color crystals from http://makesscentscandles.com/shopping/colorants.html#crystals

I wouldn't even bother doing any testing with version 2 any more because you won't be able to get it any longer.

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