Various questions (cool down imperfections, melt pool, temperatures...)

[JannaBanana]

Hi! I'm new to the forum, thanks for being so helpful everyone.

 

1) Now onto my questions... I've made a batch of soy candles, let them cure for a week. When I looked back into them, I saw there were some imperfections around the walls of the candle and I think it's because it's winter and the candle cooled down way too quickly maybe? I wanted to preheat the containers beforehand but failed to do so🤪. So I think that's why it happened. However is there a way to fix that once the candles have cured? I attached a picture so you can see how it looks like...

2) Next doubt is about temperatures. I let the wax cool down to 60 ºC before adding in the fragrance oils and then stir slowly for a full 2 minutes. Then let it cool down to 50 ºC before pouring slowly into the pots. I've seen a girl just now on youtube add fragrance at 50 ºC then pour at 40 ºC... isn't that way too low? Maybe I'm not doing it right? I was told the oils need some temperature for them to bound to the wax. But too much temperature is also bad because it makes the scents evaporate. So if you could please enlighten me about this, that would be great.

 

3) Then about the melt pool... what would you say is an ok melt pool like? I know it depends on many factors. But just an average way to know my candle is doing ok.

 

4) And for how long would you expect a 150ml 100% soy candle with fragrance oil to burn in hours? I'm testing mine but don't know what to compare it to.

 

5) Oh I also used 8% FO for them. Which is what my soy manufacturer advises. I think it could smell stronger somehow but don't want to add up to that percentage because I know there are other problems that may be causing the candle to not smell that strong. What would be your suggestions? I know it's always advised to let them cure for like 2 weeks but I needed to test and went with just 1 week.

 

Thanks for the help! And sorry for so many questions!!

[JannaBanana]

Anyone who can help me?

[Milk Machine]

Well, I'm fairly new so I can't be that much help but I thought I'd try since no one else has responded yet.  So the first question is about glass adhesion. I think you are correct that temperature fluctuations can cause those wet spots. From what I understand, those wet spots can happen any time there are temperature fluctuations even after a candle has cured. They are a minor imperfection. I read one place that you can try heat gunning the outside in that area to try to fix it but it may reappear. Just today I was at the store and saw some "professional" candles with the same issue. It really is minor and something candle makers get more frustrated over than candle buyers.

For the 2nd question, I don't work with soy so I don't know the pour Temps. But I do know there are different methods and it might be something you just experiment with and compare your own results. Sorry that's not very helpful 

For the melt pool, I think that when you have reached a full melt pool it should be 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep?  Maybe?  Not more than 1/2 inch if I remember correctly. I use  coconut wax and I know for my wax I do not want a full melt pool (all the way to the edges) at least for the first couple of burns. So I don't worry about 1/4 inch of wax unmelted around the edges. It will often melt once the candle is half way burned down.  If I get a full melt pool on the first burn or 2 my wick is too big and will be way too hot in the middle of the candle. 

Hopefully this helps a little and maybe someone with more experience will correct anything I got wrong 

Edited December 7, 2022 by Milk Machine

[TallTayl]

Wet spots: IMO cosmetic issue only.  Many container waxes shrink with time and pull away from the sides. Heating to try to fix creates other issues.  Soy, in particular, will begin to form really ugly frosting if heated and cooled to try to fix a wet spot.  I would not spend too much time or energy fighting them as they will appear with time with that wax.  Some container waxes adhere much better, but create other issues. Some shrink away so much that they begin to rattle in the glass. 
 

pour temps.  Most low temp advice I see on forums and Facebook are kind of junky. Without knowing the a,end,ents to the wax (trade secrets), you don’t know the temp of the highest melting additive.  For instance, stearic advice and palm wax need to hit close to 200*F to fully melt and thoroughly mix. Some soy blends contain palm and or stearic, so not reaching the full melt point causes weird frosting and stability issues.  Soy wax itself is nearly 90% stearic acid by nature, so playing with temps at the beginning messes up the candles at the end. I heat all of my soy and soy blends to 185*F ish, cool to about 160*F and add fragrance.  Stir well as it cools to cloudy or slushy stage and 99% of the typical soy problems are prevented.  Each time you handle a candle it costs money and creates risk of making small problems big problems. 
 

melt pools.  A full melt pool at 1/4” deep is a limit, not a goal.  Once the candle hits the mid point and issues will be magnified,and may turn out of control.  I wish to the candle gods and goddesses that the full melt pool on the first burn myth would die, be buried and stay buried.  Too many new candle makers try to hit that first burn pool and create hazardous candles that should never be out in the wild.  Many think that good HT comes from a full melt pool.  I hate to break it to them, but great HT comes from great fragrances coupled with the right wick and wax choice for the chosen container.  Everything is a balance. Typical retail fragrance sold as “professional” is just not that great. If you need 10%-12%+ to get HT then it’s not a super duper fragrance. It wasn’t too long ago that we had access to fragrances that would quickly and easily fill a large room at 3-6% with a tiny wick. 

[birdcharm]

On 11/27/2022 at 5:17 PM, JannaBanana said:

I was told the oils need some temperature for them to bound to the wax. But too much temperature is also bad because it makes the scents evaporate. So if you could please enlighten me about this, that would be great.

 

Most fragrance oils can easily withstand temperatures that are going to be much greater temps than your wax will ever get to.  Also, they don't "evaporate" -- some can lose potency, such as essential oils; but most fragrance oils are made with components that you don't have to worry about if you're melting your wax within safe heating temperatures.