Mass production of candles made of soy wax

[Sarah_]

Hi, my name is Sarah. Recently I started making candles. At first they turned out really good (as far as I can judge as a novice candle manufacturer), and my boss and I (this is a small factory) were happy with everything, but the problems started when it became necessary to introduce the technology into mass production. Since we have a "made-sold" system, in order to speed up the process, I had to add stearin to soy wax (I read that this makes the candle harder and increases gorenje time).
I tried all possible options: correlated the melting and pouring temperature, the size of the wick, the temperature in the room, the surface on which the candles solidify. I do not know, maybe the problem is in the container (glass cup) — but I am already desperate. At the beginning of the attempts, I did not think that soy wax could be so capricious):
In one approach, I try to make from 50 to 70 candles, of which (at best) only 20 will be good, the rest have different defects (tunnels, uneven surface, cracks at the wick).
I am melting wax in a wax foundry, is it possible that the wax has been in a molten state for a long time?If someone had similar problems and you were able to solve them, please share your advice

[birdcharm]

What is the brand name of the wax and what is the percentage of stearic acid that you're adding? 

[bfroberts]

I'm sure, with more specific info, someone here can help you solve the problems you are having. In the meantime, you and your boss really need to step away from selling anything until you have full understanding of your product and process. 

[Sarah_]

1 hour ago, birdcharm said:

Как называется торговая марка воска и какой процент стеариновой кислоты вы добавляете?

We order wax from a distributor of raw materials, unfortunately, I do not know the wax manufacturer, and the supplier does not disclose this information so that we do not decide to buy wax directly from the manufacturer (this is my assumption). I usually carry no more than six percent stearin(a mixture of stearic acid and other acids), since when more than six percent is added, the wax begins to form a depression around the wick.

[Sarah_]

58 minutes ago, bfroberts said:

Я уверен, что с более подробной информацией кто-нибудь здесь может помочь вам решить проблемы, с которыми вы сталкиваетесь. В то же время вам и вашему боссу действительно нужно отказаться от продажи чего-либо, пока вы не получите полное представление о своем продукте и процессе.

Yes, I think the same way, unfortunately, I don't have as much time to search as I would like.
I would be glad if someone could tell me the name of some good literature, because it seems that I have already seen everything about candles on the Internet.

[NightLight]

Post photos of what you consider defect and as much info about wax and process. When you scale up without practicing production and working out kinks it can be an issue!

[Sarah_]

6 hours ago, NightLight said:

Разместите фотографии того, что вы считаете дефектом, и как можно больше информации о воске и процессе. Когда вы расширяете производство, не практикуясь в производстве и не отрабатывая перегибы, это может стать проблемой!

I forgot to clarify that candles are aromatic. I also selected the percentage of fragrance input, it does not exceed 10%, for some candles the fragrance concentration is less, but this does not affect the quality, unfortunately.
I pour a mixture of stearin and soy wax into the heater. The wax melts at a temperature of 167 degrees , I introduce a fragrance and mix thoroughly, but do not shake (an experiment with a colored fragrance showed that it is not always so easy to completely mix it with melted wax).
Then I wait for the temperature to drop to 122-125 degrees and pour the melt into glasses.
The windows in the room where I make candles are always closed and people rarely pass by them, so I don't think it's a draft.
I tried to experiment with the conditions in which candles freeze: I tried to make them on a grate, in cold water, in warm water, in a heated glass, in foil, far or close to each other.
I also used a different range of melting temperatures, fragrance input and pouring. 
But the 167-125 interval is the most convenient.

Edited November 3, 2022 by Sarah_

[NightLight]

Sarah, 

I think you need to do several things.

Poor several test candles starting with just the wax, then do other testers with 1-6 per cent stearin and see how they are.

Most soy wax without additives will have that crumbly top unless you add either paraffin or other wax types.

 

Take the candles you have poured and see if heat gunning the top will make it smoother. Many just soy waxes you can yeast gun a smooth top but mind you once they burn they revert back to ugly top. 

 

Now some people do not mind this as they market their candles to those who want an all veggie candle.

 

Issue though with you the manufacturer not disclosing what is in your candle wax!

 

Pour temps can affect the tops of candles and adhesion, too low or too high you can get the uglies. It really depends on the wax as some are meant for higher or lower pouring. Even fragrance oil can affect appearance in just soy candles!

[bfroberts]

I'd heat the wax to 185-190° 

[Sarah_]

2 hours ago, NightLight said:

Сара,

Я думаю, вам нужно сделать несколько вещей.

Сделайте несколько тестовых свечей, начиная только с воска, затем сделайте другие тестеры с 1-6% стеарина и посмотрите, какие они.

У большинства соевых восков без добавок будет рассыпчатая поверхность, если вы не добавите парафин или другие виды воска.

 

Возьмите свечи, которые вы налили, и посмотрите, сделает ли термообработка поверхность более гладкой. У многих просто соевых восков вы можете дрожжевой пистолет с гладким верхом, но имейте в виду, как только они подгорают, они возвращаются к уродливому верху.

 

Теперь некоторые люди не возражают против этого, поскольку они продают свои свечи тем, кто хочет полностью вегетарианскую свечу.

 

Проблема, однако, в том, что производитель не раскрывает, что содержится в вашем свечном воске!

 

Температура заливки может повлиять на верхушки свечей и адгезию, слишком низкая или слишком высокая, вы можете получить уродства. Это действительно зависит от воска, так как некоторые из них предназначены для более высокой или низкой заливки. Даже ароматическое масло может повлиять на внешний вид только соевых свечей!

thanks for the advice! my first attempts to make a candle were attempts to make a candle from pure soy wax without adding fragrance and stearin. this allowed me to find a suitable wick. then I started adding flavor to find the best concentration. it turned out that the wax I used wasn't too good for making the candle smell, and my boss and I found wax with different physical characteristics. then my search was repeated again: I took the wick, raised the concentration of the fragrance. due to the fact that soy wax becomes strong only after a week, it was decided to strengthen it artificially with stearin. I started testing again.

During the search I made about 100 candles, that's for sure. the problems started when it became necessary to produce them in large quantities, rather than 10-20 pieces per day. When I made test candles, I could heat their surface with a hair dryer to achieve a smooth surface, but in mass production this is impractical.

I'm also thinking of trying to add a little coconut wax to a mixture of soy wax and stearin, but I'm afraid there will be too much difference in melting temperature, and the candle will burn incorrectly.

[Sarah_]

1 hour ago, bfroberts said:

Я бы нагрел воск до 185-190 °

I tried to heat the wax to this temperature, but the fragrance manufacturer (Givaudan and Frey & Lau) advised to lower the temperature, as part of the fragrance may evaporate. and now I try not to heat the wax above 170 degrees.

[bfroberts]

It sounds like you have received a lot of incomplete and inaccurate information.  

-A decent quality fragrance oil formulated for candles will NOT burn off when added at temps above 170. We routinely add FO at temps around 200 with no loss of scent at all. 
-Your wax needs to be heated to a temp of 185 or a little higher, especially when using additives. Otherwise your wax, additives and FO often will not fully incorporate, and that may well be part of your problem.

-You cannot determine the correct wick for a candle based on an unscented candle. Everything you add to wax (fragrance, dye, additives) can change your wicking needs. Wax without fragrance will not burn the same as wax with fragrance.  

-ALL fragrance oils will perform differently.  Every one needs to be tested separately to determine wicking and throw. There is no shortcut and no getting around testing each one.

-Soy wax needs to cure a minimum of 2 weeks. 

-You really need to choose 1 wax (they are ALL different) and learn how to use it.  Every wax is different and will perform differently. Each time you add anything to your wax or try a different wax, testing starts all over again.  There are no shortcuts. Candle making is not something that is learned quickly, and you should have a thorough understanding of your wax and how it performs in varying conditions, over time, etc. before you even consider selling product.

 

[TallTayl]

2 minutes ago, bfroberts said:

It sounds like you have received a lot of incomplete and inaccurate information.  

-A decent quality fragrance oil formulated for candles will NOT burn off when added at temps above 170. We routinely add FO at temps around 200 with no loss of scent at all. 
-Your wax needs to be heated to a temp of 185 or a little higher, especially when using additives. Otherwise your wax, additives and FO often will not fully incorporate, and that may well be part of your problem.

-You cannot determine the correct wick for a candle based on an unscented candle. Everything you add to wax (fragrance, dye, additives) can change your wicking needs. Wax without fragrance will not burn the same as wax with fragrance.  

-ALL fragrance oils will perform differently.  Every one needs to be tested separately to determine wicking and throw. There is no shortcut and no getting around testing each one.

-Soy wax needs to cure a minimum of 2 weeks. 

-You really need to choose 1 wax (they are ALL different) and learn how to use it.  Every wax is different and will perform differently. Each time you add anything to your wax or try a different wax, testing starts all over again.  There are no shortcuts. Candle making is not something that is learned quickly, and you should have a thorough understanding of your wax and how it performs in varying conditions, over time, etc. before you even consider selling product.

 

Everything here, PLUS: not very fine fragrance is compatible candles.  I had terrible issues using customer provided fine fragrance due to the aroma chemical and the diluent used. It just was not able to bind with the wax, not would it throw fragrance. Custom candles take a while to develop. I stop taking holiday orders before June to allow enough time to fix all the problems. Sometimes that is not enough. 
 

the photos of that wax are troubling.  The graininess appears that the fragrance will seep out and pool toward the bottom which is a safety issue during a burn. If you scoop out a cross section of wax and it feels wet you have a seepage problem that a heat gun will only temporarily disguise. 
 

stearin needs higher temps to fully melt. Soy wax is primarily stearic also, which take specific temps to fully melt. I would het to 180-185*F. Cool the wax to 160, add fragrance and stir well as the temperature drops. pour at about 105*

[NightLight]

Sarah 

You do need to take meticulous process notes. You must heat your wax to at least 185 and stir fragrance in well. Ignore the advice about burn off unless that fragrance is NOT formulated for candles. This is important. You should only use fragrances DESIGNED for candles, otherwise not going to work for you.

It is important to heat that wax up properly to have the wax and fragrance bind. If you don’t you will get all kinds of issues.

I would contact the manufacturer of that wax and get more details about it. Like recommended pour temp and whatever handling is needed.

[Sarah_]

On 03.11.2022 at 21:06, bfroberts said:

Похоже, вы получили много неполной и неточной информации.

-Ароматическое масло достойного качества, разработанное для свечей, НЕ сгорает при температуре выше 170. Мы регулярно добавляем FO при температуре около 200 без потери запаха вообще.
-Ваш воск необходимо нагреть до температуры 185 или чуть выше, особенно при использовании добавок. В противном случае ваш воск, добавки и масла часто не будут полностью впитываться, и это вполне может быть частью вашей проблемы.

-Вы не можете определить правильный фитиль для свечи на основе свечи без запаха. Все, что вы добавляете в воск (аромат, краситель, добавки), может изменить ваши потребности в впитывании. Воск без аромата не будет гореть так же, как воск с ароматом.

-ВСЕ ароматические масла будут действовать по-разному. Каждую из них необходимо протестировать отдельно, чтобы определить впитывание и разбрызгивание. Нет кратчайшего пути и нет возможности протестировать каждую из них.

-Соевый воск должен отверждаться минимум 2 недели.

-Вам действительно нужно выбрать 1 воск (все они разные) и научиться его использовать. Каждый воск индивидуален и будет действовать по-разному. Каждый раз, когда вы добавляете что-либо в свой воск или пробуете другой воск, тестирование начинается заново. Коротких путей нет. Изготовление свечей - это не то, чему быстро учатся, и вы должны иметь полное представление о своем воске и о том, как он работает в различных условиях, с течением времени и т. Д., Прежде чем даже подумать о продаже продукта.

 

 

On 03.11.2022 at 21:15, TallTayl said:

Здесь все, ПЛЮС: свечи с не очень тонким ароматом совместимы. У меня были ужасные проблемы с использованием тонкого аромата, предоставленного клиентом, из-за ароматического химического вещества и используемого разбавителя. Его просто не удалось бы связать с воском, не стал бы он источать аромат. Разработка свечей на заказ занимает некоторое время. Я прекращаю принимать праздничные заказы до июня, чтобы было достаточно времени для решения всех проблем. Иногда этого недостаточно.
 

фотографии этого воска вызывают беспокойство. Зернистость создает впечатление, что аромат будет просачиваться наружу и скапливаться на дне, что является проблемой безопасности во время ожога. Если вы зачерпнете поперечный срез воска и он окажется влажным, у вас возникнет проблема с просачиванием, которую тепловая пушка лишь временно замаскирует.
 

для полного расплавления стеарину требуется более высокая температура. Соевый воск также в основном состоит из стеариновой кислоты, для полного расплавления которой требуется определенная температура. Я бы предпочел 180-185 * F. Охладите воск до 160 градусов, добавьте ароматизатор и хорошо перемешайте, когда температура упадет. налейте примерно до 105*

 

On 04.11.2022 at 00:36, NightLight said:

Сара

Вам нужно делать подробные записи о процессе. Вы должны нагреть воск не менее чем до 185 градусов и хорошо размешать ароматизатор. Игнорируйте совет о выгорании, если только этот аромат НЕ предназначен для свечей. Это очень важно. Вы должны использовать только ароматизаторы, предназначенные для свечей, иначе они вам не подойдут.

Важно правильно нагреть этот воск, чтобы воск и аромат связались. Если вы этого не сделаете, у вас возникнут всевозможные проблемы.

Я бы связался с производителем этого воска и получил более подробную информацию о нем. Например, рекомендуемая температура заливки и любое необходимое обращение.

Thank you all again for your answers! They helped me in a conversation with my superiors. It turned out that some of our fragrances use dipropylene glycol as a solvent. Perhaps someone knows why the fragrances with DPG work so poorly in candles?

[TallTayl]

1 hour ago, Sarah_ said:

 

 

Thank you all again for your answers! They helped me in a conversation with my superiors. It turned out that some of our fragrances use dipropylene glycol as a solvent. Perhaps someone knows why the fragrances with DPG work so poorly in candles?

That is the exact problem I had with customer provided fine fragrance.  DPG (dipropylene glycol) is often used in perfumery oils intended for non-soap and non-candle applications.  DPG does not burn well in candles; it clogs the wick terribly. 

 

In cold process soap DPG immediately causes the raw fluid soap to seize into a solid blob often called soap on a stick.  I can tell in seconds if a fragrance contains DPG in soap. Glycols are used in fog machines, I had one fragrance high in DPG cause fog when added to melt and candle wax. 
 

ask the perfumer to replace the DPG diluent with IPM (isopropyl Myristate) or DEP (diethyl phthalate) or DOA (dioctyl adepate). Any of these will help suspend the aroma chemicals to disperse through the candle wax. DEP will allow the strongest possible throw, followed by DOA and IPM. If none of those are available, a liquid oil should also work, like fractionated coconut oil, soy bean oil, mineral oil, etc.  just be sure to completely test burn in case the chosen oil is not compatible with your wax choice. 

[Sarah_]

14 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

Это именно та проблема, с которой я столкнулся с прекрасным ароматом, предоставленным клиентом. DPG (дипропиленгликоль) часто используется в парфюмерных маслах, предназначенных для применения без мыла и без свечей. ДПГ плохо горит в свечах; он ужасно забивает фитиль.

 

При холодной обработке мыла DPG немедленно приводит к тому, что сырое жидкое мыло превращается в твердую каплю, часто называемую мылом на палочке. Я могу за считанные секунды определить, содержит ли аромат DPG в мыле. Гликоли используются в противотуманных машинах, у меня был один аромат с высоким содержанием DPG, который вызывал туман при добавлении к расплаву и свечному воску.
 

попросите парфюмера заменить разбавитель DPG на IPM (изопропилмиристат), или DEP (диэтилфталат), или DOA (диоктиладепат). Любой из них поможет приостановить ароматические химикаты, чтобы они рассеялись по свечному воску. DEP обеспечит максимально сильный бросок, за которым последуют DOA и IPM. Если ничего из этого нет в наличии, подойдет и жидкое масло, например, фракционированное кокосовое масло, соевое масло, минеральное масло и т.д. Только обязательно полностью протестируйте ожог на случай, если выбранное масло не совместимо с выбранным вами воском.

The manufacturer of fragrances offers fragrances on DPM (dowanol) in candles, but it is written on the Internet that this is also glycolic ether. Tell me, please, have you by any chance had any experience working with him?

[TallTayl]

One more thought about scaling up production which is true for candles, melts, soap, etc. 

the dynamics of a batch change dramatically.  Temps don’t change as quickly, chemical reactions happen faster, etc.  any little issues with small test batches become huge issues when bigger batches are needed. 

[Sarah_]

30 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

Еще одна мысль о расширении производства, которая касается свечей, расплавов, мыла и т. Д.

динамика партии резко меняется. Температура меняется не так быстро, химические реакции происходят быстрее и т. Д. любые небольшие проблемы с небольшими тестовыми партиями становятся огромными проблемами, когда требуются большие партии.

Yes! It's so true that it's even funny. 
I am a chemical technologist by education with a bias in inorganic chemistry, and one of the things that we were constantly told: we should always focus on the average value. I was engaged in crystal growth, and it turned out that we cut off the upper (purest) and lower (most polluted) parts from the grown crystal so that the bulk of the crystal was homogeneous. The cleanest part was used for seedings for the growth of other crystals, the most polluted part was used for melting.

Sorry for the off-topic message. I'm happy to learn something new, like how to make candles, but I miss crystal growth very much.  

My last attempts to make candles led me to the idea that it is more convenient to pour wax into glasses when the melt turns white (the crystallization process begins). I don't know yet how to implement this correctly for a large number of candles, but I'm trying.

[TallTayl]

4 hours ago, Sarah_ said:

Yes! It's so true that it's even funny. 
I am a chemical technologist by education with a bias in inorganic chemistry, and one of the things that we were constantly told: we should always focus on the average value. I was engaged in crystal growth, and it turned out that we cut off the upper (purest) and lower (most polluted) parts from the grown crystal so that the bulk of the crystal was homogeneous. The cleanest part was used for seedings for the growth of other crystals, the most polluted part was used for melting.

Sorry for the off-topic message. I'm happy to learn something new, like how to make candles, but I miss crystal growth very much.  

My last attempts to make candles led me to the idea that it is more convenient to pour wax into glasses when the melt turns white (the crystallization process begins). I don't know yet how to implement this correctly for a large number of candles, but I'm trying.

Your experience in crystal growth will truly help you excel in the candle journey. Candle waxes high in stearic (palm, soy, stearin, tallow, etc) change appearance based on crystal formation.
Large, irregular shaped crystals can make less stable candles.  large crystals form during a slow cool down and when not stirred well enough during cool down. Large crystals leave open spaces which can allow fragrance and lower melt point fractions of oils and wax to seep and pool.  large crystals make soy candles look dull and grainy (and prone to cracks and sink holes), while palm candles benefit from looking frosty and sparkly (and prone to those giant sink holes)
 

Small crystals form during more rapid cool down and when wax is stirred well as it cools to pouring temp. regularly shaped crystals make soy candles look more shiny, but palm candles less festive and special. 
 

pouring soy. At slush stage has resulted in more winning soy candles from my shop than pouring hot. The lower the pour temp the less chance of forming sink holes and less heat gunning.