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Wicking Ecococo wax


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I’m still having trouble finding a good wick for my Ecococo wax container candles. I use a 8.5cm diameter 30cl glass with 6-8% FO.
 

Tried the Eco 14 but the flame height was far too big , thought I’d try the Eco 12 but the melt pool was too small and I got tunnelling after 4 hrs of burning.

 

Tried the Stabilo 16/18/20 but again I had issues with tunnelling even after 4 full hrs burning. Tried the Stabilo 22 but suddenly the flame was too big after the 2hr Mark.

 

Tried the TCR 33/18 but the melt pool was way too small then sized up all the way to the 36/18 but again it left bits on the sides after 4 hrs of burning. 

 

Should I just give up on Ecococo wax ? I really don’t want to it’s a wax I’ve had the least amount of problems with like smooth single pour tops and a good hot / cold throw. Most of the wicks ended up with mushrooming even with regular trimming so idk I’m at my wits end with this. 

Any suggestions for other coconut waxes / wicks I should try would be appreciated. 

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4 hours ago, SweetPeaFairy said:

I’m still having trouble finding a good wick for my Ecococo wax container candles. I use a 8.5cm diameter 30cl glass with 6-8% FO.
 

Tried the Eco 14 but the flame height was far too big , thought I’d try the Eco 12 but the melt pool was too small and I got tunnelling after 4 hrs of burning.

 

Tried the Stabilo 16/18/20 but again I had issues with tunnelling even after 4 full hrs burning. Tried the Stabilo 22 but suddenly the flame was too big after the 2hr Mark.

 

Tried the TCR 33/18 but the melt pool was way too small then sized up all the way to the 36/18 but again it left bits on the sides after 4 hrs of burning. 

 

Should I just give up on Ecococo wax ? I really don’t want to it’s a wax I’ve had the least amount of problems with like smooth single pour tops and a good hot / cold throw. Most of the wicks ended up with mushrooming even with regular trimming so idk I’m at my wits end with this. 

Any suggestions for other coconut waxes / wicks I should try would be appreciated. 

How long are you curing before you test?

 

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You

4 hours ago, SweetPeaFairy said:

Usually around 48hrs if I’m just testing wicks 

You won't get an accurate wick test this soon after pouring.. you need to wait for the wax to harden and recrystallize - this is called polymorphism. Wait 2 week after you pour and you'll get a much better burn and the wicking will be easier. When you test as soon as you are, the wax is still way too soft so it melts faster and a wick that will be perfect in 2-3 weeks cure, appears to be too hot.

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19 hours ago, PINKT said:

How long are you curing before you test?

 

 

14 hours ago, PINKT said:

You

You won't get an accurate wick test this soon after pouring.. you need to wait for the wax to harden and recrystallize - this is called polymorphism. Wait 2 week after you pour and you'll get a much better burn and the wicking will be easier. When you test as soon as you are, the wax is still way too soft so it melts faster and a wick that will be perfect in 2-3 weeks cure, appears to be too hot.

Thank you so much , still very new to this god I feel dumb lol 

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3 hours ago, SweetPeaFairy said:

 

Thank you so much , still very new to this god I feel dumb lol 

Please don't be hard on yourself!!  It's a learning process and we are all here to help :)

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all waxes benefit from a decent cure to allow the wax to fully mature. Some waxes, like palm, are pretty much what they will ever be after 3-4 days. Others like paraffin and coconut blends might give you a decent idea of the burn after 3-5 days but hot throw might not fully develop for a couple of weeks.
 

Don't judge a candle on the first burn too harshly. .  I wick intentionally for some hang up at the top of coconut wax candles.  “Tunneling” is when the candle never catches up and bores a hole directly down the center of a candle, like a pillar candle that leaves a thick shell. “Hang up” is a thin wall of wax on the glass that slowly melts into the melt pool as the candle burns further into the container. 
 

the shape of the melt pool with coconut wax is usually a very wide “U” shape, which is very desirable in a safely made candle as it gently catches up through the useful life of the candle. By the end of the candle’s useful life of this type of melt pool all of the wax will be used up at the end.  A tunnel is a very steeply sided hole like a drilled out or bored out hole, and will not catch up through a burn.
 

by the half way point of the candle things REALLY heat up, and soft&easily melted waxes, like coconut, can quickly become dangerous of overwicked. You need to consider the jar surface temp  during a burn (especially a power burn). Depending on which source you refer to, a glass jar should not exceed 140* F during a burn (In the US, UL safety standards are referenced by retailers) or 170-175*F (unverifiable source attributed to ASTM  by many self-trained candle groups.) 
 

the height of the jar in proportion to the width of the jar is very important.  When a jar is taller than wide you really need to think of the wick for the last inch of burn where heat can build and potentially cause secondary ignition (fire) leading to cracking of the jar.

 

eco wicks and coconut wax are a fine balancing act.  Eco is able to efficiently move fuel through and tend to burn very hot.  Coconut waxes are rather delicate and generally benefit from small eco sizes that will melt the wax (creating a nice pool)  without using up so much fuel (large flame) . Cd, CDN, lx and htp have been very effective with coconut waxes.

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  • 2 months later...

Hi SweetPeaFairy,


Hope you’re well. 
 

This thread is a couple of months old - but I was wondering if you found a wick solution for ecococo wax - like you I love this wax - scent throw is great, single pour, aesthetically pleasing. 
 

I’m using a 80mm diameter jar 30cl - tried the following wicks - TCR, LX, Stabilo and Eco - closest I can get is ECO 14 but the flame height is just absolutely ridiculous!

 

Wondered if you might have found another wick series? 

 

Best wishes,

 

Andrew

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