Swix Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 Hi Everyone, I am working through some testing (more quality assurance than anything) and curious on flame height. Currently use C3 wax, single CD-16 wick, handmade vessel with diameter of 2-3/4", 5% FO. ASTM F2417-17 for candle burning says to not go over 3" height, but ideally would like to stay under 2". When I do a power burn (4 hours long, no trimming of wick) I am pushing the 2" flame height. Is this normal and what you are seeing? Another question.. besides going up and down wicks, are there other things you use that would help keep the wick height to a minimum? Thanks! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 Pretty normal if not trimming a wick. I'd be concerned if it's putting off smoke or making the jar hot, otherwise personally I don't mind. I also use C3 and cotton wicks but typically 6% unless a super strong scent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 5 hours ago, Swix said: Hi Everyone, I am working through some testing (more quality assurance than anything) and curious on flame height. Currently use C3 wax, single CD-16 wick, handmade vessel with diameter of 2-3/4", 5% FO. ASTM F2417-17 for candle burning says to not go over 3" height, but ideally would like to stay under 2". When I do a power burn (4 hours long, no trimming of wick) I am pushing the 2" flame height. Is this normal and what you are seeing? Another question.. besides going up and down wicks, are there other things you use that would help keep the wick height to a minimum? Thanks! DJ 2” if in proportion to the candle size, and that does not make any part of the glass heat to 175*F or higher can be fine. In my minds eye 2” is a rather tall flame for a container of that width. Do you have pictures? what happens when the wick is not trimmed prior to lighting? Is the flame still “safe”? editing to add… 3” max flame height is meaningless if the flame is not in proportion to the candle. Imagine a tea light with a 3” tall flame. It would look really unsafe, would it not, despite being within the ASTM description. It would look as out of place as 36” tires on a smart car. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swix Posted September 27, 2021 Author Share Posted September 27, 2021 Thanks, @kandlekrazy glad you are seeing the same thing--especially using the same base wax. @TallTayl, in my mind, they don't look unsafe. I wouldn't feel good about selling them if they did--but always asking myself how to consistently improve. I took a few pictures this afternoon. Some of these candles are not properly spaced, but know that these are all hand thrown ceramic jars, so heat/integrity of the canister hasn't been a factor. @TallTayl, I know you use beeswax in your formulation. My hypothesis is adding beeswax would improve (higher melt point) flame height, while adding paraffin (lower melt point) would hinder flame height. I know there's other factors here, but wonder how large candle companies (besides millions of dollars in RD&E) optimize their flame height. Thanks again for the responses--great discussion! Best, DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 Those don’t look like 2” tall flames at all. I would not add beeswax to C3. Beeswax will create a host of problems with the wax that is already hard, and hard to burn. C3 takes several months to completely cure and reach its final hardness. Early wick testing will throw taller, less steady flames. the bigger wick now makes sense given your jar. Ceramic takes more wick to heat since the material is thick and takes significantly more energy than a thin walled glass container to warm, and keep warm. You probably have already noticed that winter temps are much more challenging to melt that candle than summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightLight Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 Second that no beeswax to C3. It’s already a hard wax to start. Those wicks look okay to me. If they are not flickering through most of candle life they should be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swix Posted September 29, 2021 Author Share Posted September 29, 2021 Thanks, @TallTayl and @NightLight--really appreciate your feedback. @TallTayl, I've been reading your posts for a lonnng time--wouldn't be where I am at without your informative posts here on craftserver! Thanks again, DJ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted September 29, 2021 Share Posted September 29, 2021 1 hour ago, Swix said: Thanks, @TallTayl and @NightLight--really appreciate your feedback. @TallTayl, I've been reading your posts for a lonnng time--wouldn't be where I am at without your informative posts here on craftserver! Thanks again, DJ Happy to help 🤗 Your pottery is wonderful. You will do well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 Have you ever purchased or received an expensive candle? I have received as gifts and I'll tell you that SOME of the most expensive burned horribly. Don't feel like their $$$$ for R&D makes a huge difference. Most are interested in the cold and hot throw. Sometimes I think us small guys take way more time and effort to make a safe candle that still smells great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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