Lawlaw410 Posted May 20, 2021 Share Posted May 20, 2021 (edited) Hey guys! I’m pretty new to candle making and have run my first cycle of tests on multiple vessels. So far, I’m only doing wax with no dye or FO to get a baseline wick/wax/container combo established. I can’t get a full melt pool with coco apricot wax using an Eco12 or a CD4. Ideally, I’d like to stick to a single wick for these containers. The sizes of vessels I’ve tried with both eco 12 and cd4 are 3 1/2” high x 3 1/8” diameter and the other is slightly smaller in diameter at 3 1/2” high x 3” diameter. I did get a full melt pool on both containers with Coco 83 coconut wax however. Basically, what I’d really like to know is are there any other types wicks appropriate for coconut waxes? (except for wood) I have soy candles from Spiritual and Paid that are single wick and the first container I’ve mentioned is actually one of theirs from an old candle I’ve burned. They burn evenly and fully, so I’m super curious as to what they use. I know I’m kind of all over the place, but any guidance would be totally appreciated! Thank you!! Edited May 20, 2021 by Lawlaw410 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 20, 2021 Share Posted May 20, 2021 For coconut wax is I never aim for a full melt pool. Never. A full melt pool is a limit not a goal. If you get a full melt pool at the top of the jar it will be dangerously hot very quickly further down. Using bigger wicks also means it burns more fuel so if you want more m pool wick down. It sounds counterintuitive but it’s true. Heat from the flame melts the wax, a smaller “straw” does not draw up so much fuel so excess is left as a pool. coco apricot wax (ceda cerica) does very well as a long long but omg candle in that size jar by not hitting full melt pool until the last 1/2” of wax at the bottom. The sides gently weep the hang up wax from the sides throughout the whole burn and provide fresh scented wax the entire burn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawlaw410 Posted May 20, 2021 Author Share Posted May 20, 2021 5 hours ago, TallTayl said: For coconut wax is I never aim for a full melt pool. Never. A full melt pool is a limit not a goal. If you get a full melt pool at the top of the jar it will be dangerously hot very quickly further down. Using bigger wicks also means it burns more fuel so if you want more m pool wick down. It sounds counterintuitive but it’s true. Heat from the flame melts the wax, a smaller “straw” does not draw up so much fuel so excess is left as a pool. coco apricot wax (ceda cerica) does very well as a long long but omg candle in that size jar by not hitting full melt pool until the last 1/2” of wax at the bottom. The sides gently weep the hang up wax from the sides throughout the whole burn and provide fresh scented wax the entire burn. Thanks for the advice. Some candles I had a thick 1/2 inch ring around the edge resulting in a large tunnel essentially. I did have one that had a thinner wall of wax but it gradually shrunk down like you mentioned. I’m also testing a 4.75” dia vessel with coco apricot and a wooden wick and it’s doing the same thing, but I still have a few more cycles to go before it’s done. When I had a full melt pool after a 2nd cycle with virgin coconut wax, the temp of the container was within normal limits, but you think maybe the pool itself could have been too hot and would possibly affect my hot throw once I add FO? thank you again for the insight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 20, 2021 Share Posted May 20, 2021 You might want to try a different wick series, such as CDN. I prefer CDN to cd in most soft veg waxes. a large melt pool may be too hot, (or too cool to get the current moving well. ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Annie Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 TalTayl, your info has helped me out too. What about dancing flames during the burn? How much of that should be acceptable. Some of mine have been jumpy on and off throughout the entire burn. I am using coco/apricot. Some very jumpy, using 3" vessels. All are same size and shape, diff. manufacturers, all coco/ apricot, same size wick and still one jumps more than others. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightLight Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 If jumpy try a different wick series, try and wick down and see how that works. CDN and Cd work well with coconut but wick down. It’s a ton of testing. Maybe UC wicks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Coco Apricot & wicks Posted December 16, 2021 Share Posted December 16, 2021 Thanks very much. I will keep testing. I hope it will not take very long to get it right! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted December 17, 2021 Share Posted December 17, 2021 11 hours ago, Guest Annie said: TalTayl, your info has helped me out too. What about dancing flames during the burn? How much of that should be acceptable. Some of mine have been jumpy on and off throughout the entire burn. I am using coco/apricot. Some very jumpy, using 3" vessels. All are same size and shape, diff. manufacturers, all coco/ apricot, same size wick and still one jumps more than others. Thanks Some dancing is expected as the air currents build. As long as the flames don’t start to shoot soot or grow carbon balls I don’t mind a little dance. when the flames dance, stretch tall and then chug down I know there’s a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightLight Posted December 17, 2021 Share Posted December 17, 2021 I have been playing with harder wax in bottom of candles because it’s such a pain Mai training the perfect wick to the bottom. Is it more trouble yes but it works well with softer waxes that go choo choo in bottom half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted December 17, 2021 Share Posted December 17, 2021 1 hour ago, NightLight said: I have been playing with harder wax in bottom of candles because it’s such a pain Mai training the perfect wick to the bottom. Is it more trouble yes but it works well with softer waxes that go choo choo in bottom half. Using another wax as the brake definitely works! I also look at it as a good step to secure the wick. 1/2” of the cruddy 444 wax that wasn’t worth anything redeems itself as a base layer in coco blends. When poured to slightly above the top of the wick tab neck it helps hold the flat wicks a bit more firmly. I get so frustrated with coco blends that end up with tipped wicks when the pinched part of the wick in the tab makes them flop over from their own weight. if using a jar that shows the wax transition line too much, making a little votive and sliding it down around the wick hides the secret. Pretty sure House of Intuition uses a layer of their wax to secure all of their wicks. I noticed all the tall candles in glass have the same amount of uncolored wax at the bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Annie Posted December 17, 2021 Share Posted December 17, 2021 12 hours ago, TallTayl said: Some dancing is expected as the air currents build. As long as the flames don’t start to shoot soot or grow carbon balls I don’t mind a little dance. when the flames dance, stretch tall and then chug down I know there’s a problem. 21 hours ago, Guest Coco Apricot & wicks said: Thanks very much. I will keep testing. I hope it will not take very long to get it right! My coco apricot wax candles, no fragrance, wax pool is beige when cooled after burning. The wax on inside of glass stays white. I assume this change of color is normal? Is there anything worth adding to the wax to omit this color change? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted December 18, 2021 Share Posted December 18, 2021 4 hours ago, Guest Annie said: My coco apricot wax candles, no fragrance, wax pool is beige when cooled after burning. The wax on inside of glass stays white. I assume this change of color is normal? Is there anything worth adding to the wax to omit this color change? Thanks Wax color changes can be due to the wick (if wood, tannins escaping into the melt pool. If not wood, sometimes too hot for the wax blend) coco blends change color pretty fast if heated too long at too high of a temp. If it otherwise smells ok, and burns safely then I generally don’t worry too much about color changes, but do keep a closer eye on later burns in that candle. When melt pools discolors toward the top, in my candles, it indicates too much wick for later in the candle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Annie - thanks again Posted December 19, 2021 Share Posted December 19, 2021 On 12/17/2021 at 2:20 AM, TallTayl said: Some dancing is expected as the air currents build. As long as the flames don’t start to shoot soot or grow carbon balls I don’t mind a little dance. when the flames dance, stretch tall and then chug down I know there’s a problem. On 12/16/2021 at 6:00 PM, Guest Coco Apricot & wicks said: Thanks very much. I will keep testing. I hope it will not take very long to get it right! My coco apricot wax candles, no fragrance, wax pool is beige when cooled after burning. The wax on inside of glass stays white. I assume this change of color is normal? Is there anything worth adding to the wax to omit this color change? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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