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Hi all,

 I made cream today for the first time! Yay!—and I want to shout it with glee 😂

I used the beginner Swift Crafty template for cream. It does look a bit grainy and I’m sure I may have screwed something up...

 

I did a 200g batch.

 

water phase:

118g distilled water 

4g sodium lactate

 

oil phase:

10g deodorized argan oil

10g HO safflower oil

10g apricot kernel oil

6g unrefined cocoa butter

6g kokum butter

6g mango butter

2g unrefined shea butter

14g BTMS 50

6g stearic acid

 

cool down
2g liquid germall plus

2g fragrance 

2g vit E

+heated/held for 20 min

 +Topped off water that dissipated with boiled distilled water on scale

+pored heated water into mixing bowl then poured heated oil in mixing bowl

beat with stand mixer for about 4 min—*may have beat at too high of a speed

Added my cool down and mixed to incorporate.

Annnnd it looks like this? Is this normal?

It’s at about 75F in these pics.

 

 

 

 

7B5B6DDB-65BD-4DC8-8F06-410FB4A21E41.jpeg

70AA988C-837A-47E5-8DC2-9CD1B2EBF7A6.jpeg

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Wait until it cools off for a day then evaluate. It looks like some of the butters may not have been melted enough, and possibly you didn’t blend long enough.

Looking at your recipe. Simplify. The reason is it’s hard to figure out culprit ingredient or technique with a multi ingredient formula.

Pick one butter to use. Each butter will have different qualities in feel in final product.

You can use the stearic.

Use one oil.

Whats the percentage of BTMS and what’s the percentage of oils and waxes?

You might not have enough emulsifier.

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The recipe was only a template so I definitely didn’t need to use all those ingredients but I just wanted to play. It feels good on the skin. Just looks a little unsightly. 


BTMS 50 was used at 14%

6%stearic

30% oils

20% butters

for a 200g batch.

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Okay that looks better. Recipe is still very high in oils and butters. You don’t need 6 per cent stearic. Stearic is a draggy thickener. It won’t feel glide you on skin. Over 3 per cent you will get whitening when applied to skin.

You could do 2 per cent stearic and 2 per cent Cetyl alcohol. Cetyl alcohol is a nice very glider thickener.

You can also cut you oil usage down by half.

 

 

Here is good article from Soapqueen. Look at percentages in formula

https://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/lotion/how-to-create-homemade-lotion-recipes/

 

To learn more join Swift Craft Monkey Blog

Everything you need to know about crafting body care 

https://www.swiftcraftymonkey.blog/

 

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A stick blender will definitely help homogenize the molecules before they have a chance to coalesce. I have to say, though that stearic in a lotion can still grain with time. The butters also have stearic as part of their fatty profile.

 

the recipe looks like it is using added stearic to thicken. You can drop the amount of water to achieve a similar thickness. As you experiment with lotion making, I bet you’ll find that Cetyl Alcohol provides a much nicer feel as a thickener over time.  Cetearyl alcohol (a blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohol) will also provide a thickening with a nice skin feel. BTMS has cetearyl alcohol so increasing the btms instead of adding more stearic might be a great solution without providing a base to grain like stearyl can. 
 

 

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Thank you @NightLight and @TallTayl!

I really appreciate the feedback and advice. I'm definitely going to simplify and experiment with less oils/butters and different ways to achieve thicker consistency without relying on added stearic acid. These batches were draggy and I definitely noticed the whitening on the skin. 

I joined Swift Crafty Monkey a few months ago and Ive been reading enough material to make my head spin 😊 Its been an amazing resource.

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, sarahmarah said:

Thank you @NightLight and @TallTayl!

I really appreciate the feedback and advice. I'm definitely going to simplify and experiment with less oils/butters and different ways to achieve thicker consistency without relying on added stearic acid. These batches were draggy and I definitely noticed the whitening on the skin. 

I joined Swift Crafty Monkey a few months ago and Ive been reading enough material to make my head spin 😊 Its been an amazing resource.

 

 

 

A very simple formula is just an oil or butter with emulsifying wax in water.  Use Ewax (cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60) at 25% of the oil by weight. 
 

once you get your lotion crafting feet under you, branch into gel makers. Those are life changing.  

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Whenever I make a product, I go for as simple as possible to get end result.


For cream

Water

emulsifier

thickener

oil

butter

preservative

 

as you get experienced you can add

stabililizers

tiny amounts of natural gums

polymers

gel emulsifiers

 

just like waxes, you have to get to know your ingredients.

different emulsifiers different results, same with thickeners, stabilizers, oils.

 

you can make a greasy cream or a dry cream by switching the ingredients around.

 

take notes.

 

buy some curtly alcohol, you will like it in lotions and creams.

 

 

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I’m definitely going to try a simple batch next.

Luckily I have some ewax nf and cetyl alcohol  samples from Lotioncrafter I can put to good use. I was previously doing some simple experimenting with emulsified scrubs and playing with ingredients with those and when it came to making my first lotion I swear my good sense went out the window lol. 
Cheers to reigning it back in and keeping good notes 😊

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