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Heat gun repairs of soy/coconut wax candles


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I use a combination of mostly soy GW 464 mixed with coconut wax. I achieve mostly smooth first pours but always leave some extra scented wax in case I need to do a second pour. The problem I had recently with a batch of 12 oz straight sided libbey jars was lack of adhesion or wet spots, which I believe were caused by a cold room. I fixed these successfully with a heat gun, but the top is not to my usual standardDE8F2C13-6EBA-4AE1-B641-D659B38FACEF.thumb.jpeg.93c6d99419652f538e94c0d4f216acc4.jpeg. Mine usually look like the top image but whenever I hit them with a heat gun, they end up looking rough and uneven. Am I doing something wrong, or is this just part of the process?

C44C358C-80C8-48B2-B830-93B3739C9F86.jpeg

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I think the "leather look" & uneven areas comes from too much heat from the heat gun.  As much as everyone raves about heat guns being the silver bullet to creating smooth tops, there can be times when they can cause adverse results.  I've switched to using a small gun and holding it as far away as possible if I have to use it.  My goal this year is to be 100% heat gun free if at all possible when it comes to soy waxes/blends.  (I'm not saying there isn't a place for them, just that I've seen similar results and I think it's when I applied too much heat ... although, typically, mine also frosted a bit after a day or so, adding to the appeal of an icy leather look candle.)  🤔

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Is there any way to avoid this? I feel like once I use the heat gun, my smooth tops are over. Perhaps I am using too much heat, as you suggest, Birdcharm. I have thought they look like they have been overheated or cooked. 

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