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Do you re-melt your soy wax after a wick test and reuse the wax?


SRez

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Hi all,

What do you do with all your unscented wax after you're done with wick testing?

For me, I have been tipping them over in the oven, on a rack, and let them drip into a roasting pan, let it harden, remove, then melt again when needed.

Originally I turned the oven on to about 200 - 225 degrees Fahrenheit. But since I was told anything over 200 degrees changes the molecular structure of the soy wax, I have now lowered it to 170 degrees.

Do you have a different method? Do you see any harm in doing this?

Thanks in advance.

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Good to know.  Let me ask you if you don't mind.  Newbie here... 

 

I performed a 3 hour wick test.  Of the 15 different wicks tested, I found 2 that worked the best.  CD 18 and Premier 795.  Full 1/4" melt pool.  So the remainder soy wax in the other 13 jars, at least a good 6 ounces a piece, I melted at a low heat to reuse.  

 

Do you see any harm in that?

 

Thanks, 

 

Steve

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16 minutes ago, SRez said:

Gotcha.  Ok. So I reckon there's no harm then.  Thanks. 

I often pre-melt more wax than I need for a project. Then I reheat it gently with new wax. Like noted above some people call at tempering. In my opinion it removes excess moisture from the wax which should make it perform well in the end. Just don’t overheat.

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41 minutes ago, SRez said:

Good to know.  Let me ask you if you don't mind.  Newbie here... 

 

I performed a 3 hour wick test.  Of the 15 different wicks tested, I found 2 that worked the best.  CD 18 and Premier 795.  Full 1/4" melt pool.  So the remainder soy wax in the other 13 jars, at least a good 6 ounces a piece, I melted at a low heat to reuse.  

 

Do you see any harm in that?

 

Thanks, 

 

Steve

If you are getting a quarter inch deep melt pool after your first three hour burn be concerned that by the middle of your jar and toward the end it might get far too hot. I never judge a candle on the first burn unless it is sputtering out.
 

Likewise if you’re using soy it will continue to change for several weeks even months after you make it. The middle is not even close to being done settling.

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Thank you TallTayl, 

 

I see what you're saying.

 

So in your opinion, what's with the 1/4" melt pool hype on first burn?  Is that more or less a starting point for beginners?  I kind of questioned it myself but just went with it.  

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37 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

If you are getting a quarter inch deep melt pool after your first three hour burn be concerned that by the middle of your jar and toward the end it might get far too hot. I never judge a candle on the first burn unless it is sputtering out.
 

Likewise if you’re using soy it will continue to change for several weeks even months after you make it. The middle is not even close to being done settling.

Thank you TallTayl, 

 

I see what you're saying.

 

So in your opinion, what's with the 1/4" melt pool hype on first burn?  Is that more or less a starting point for beginners?  I kind of questioned it myself but just went with it.  

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I’m not sure who started that actually? And then made it a rule for every single wax type there is. It makes no sense. I know some people like to see the wax burn down evenly, but with that come risks with the middle of the candle.
 

As long as you have a clean burn, a safe burn and acceptable hot throw I don’t know what the reason is to have a quarter inch deep melt pool as a target. To me it’s an upper limit.

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25 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

I’m not sure who started that actually? And then made it a rule for every single wax type there is. It makes no sense. I know some people like to see the wax burn down evenly, but with that come risks with the middle of the candle.
 

As long as you have a clean burn, a safe burn and acceptable hot throw I don’t know what the reason is to have a quarter inch deep melt pool as a target. To me it’s an upper limit.

Thank you so much! Almost driving ourselves crazy over an eighth of an inch here and there to reach that 1/4" goal on point. Back to the test kitchen it is to retest a few more wicks! 

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I've spoken to candle scientists about their testing procedures, and they told me they don't ever fail candles because of wax hangup on the sides because there is nothing unsafe about it. They will even pass candles that tunnel with a huge wall of wax as long as the wick doesn't drown or flare up during the burn testing. 

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1 minute ago, ErronB said:

I've spoken to candle scientists about their testing procedures, and they told me they don't ever fail candles because of wax hangup on the sides because there is nothing unsafe about it. They will even pass candles that tunnel with a huge wall of wax as long as the wick doesn't drown tor flare up during the burn testing. 

That is interesting.  And what is misleading I guess, is just about every youtube video and candle article that I've read, from candle sites like CandleScience and some others all mention the almighty 1/4" to 1/2"  melt pool test. 

Granted that I'm new to this and have only been researching for the past month or so. 

I wonder if it's a play from the suppliers so that consumers like me buy more and more supplies to get it where they think they need to be. 😄  

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Just now, SRez said:

That is interesting.  And what is misleading I guess, is just about every youtube video and candle article that I've read, from candle sites like CandleScience and some others all mention the almighty 1/4" to 1/2"  melt pool test. 

Granted that I'm new to this and have only been researching for the past month or so. 

I wonder if it's a play from the suppliers so that consumers like me buy more and more supplies to get it where they think they need to be. 😄  

 

CandleScience don't even know what they're talking about, they throw any safety out the window. The most common example is they always recommend CD18 wicks in 8oz tins for soy. Sure, you'll get that full melt pool, but try burning it further down near the bottom and see all the problems that stem from it. So basically all you are learning from them is: Burn your candle for 4 hours and if the melt pool doesn't reach the edges then wick up. Or if you have a really deep melt pool then wick down. There is SO MUCH MORE to everything, but if you question them they don't even really know themselves, they will feed you textbook noob responses to make it look like they're giving you decent troubleshooting advice which should be enough for anyone to make professional soy candles, it's complete and utter rubbish.

 

You'll learn a lot more by spending time researching your issues on this forum, some things you'll think make no sense, but give them a try anyway you might be surprised. 

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Remember also that your candle may burn much differently in different environments. If you are testing in a cold space, and someone burns it in a warm climate that perfect melt pool in your home could be an Inferno in another home. I learned this the hard way. 

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1 hour ago, ErronB said:

 

CandleScience don't even know what they're talking about, they throw any safety out the window. The most common example is they always recommend CD18 wicks in 8oz tins for soy. Sure, you'll get that full melt pool, but try burning it further down near the bottom and see all the problems that stem from it. So basically all you are learning from them is: Burn your candle for 4 hours and if the melt pool doesn't reach the edges then wick up. Or if you have a really deep melt pool then wick down. There is SO MUCH MORE to everything, but if you question them they don't even really know themselves, they will feed you textbook noob responses to make it look like they're giving you decent troubleshooting advice which should be enough for anyone to make professional soy candles, it's complete and utter rubbish.

 

You'll learn a lot more by spending time researching your issues on this forum, some things you'll think make no sense, but give them a try anyway you might be surprised. 

Thanks ErronB, I definitely think I found the right place and the right group of people right here.  I hope to learn as much as I can. 

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1 hour ago, TallTayl said:

Remember also that your candle may burn much differently in different environments. If you are testing in a cold space, and someone burns it in a warm climate that perfect melt pool in your home could be an Inferno in another home. I learned this the hard way. 

Ha! I can only imagine. Never thought of that. 

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4 hours ago, TallTayl said:

I’m not sure who started that actually? And then made it a rule for every single wax type there is. It makes no sense.

 

Too funny, it really doesn't make any sense.  How does this stuff get started?  I see so many people concerned that their candle hasn't reached a full melt pool an hour into burning!!  That's crazy!  I like my candles to burn a long time, the longer it takes for it to reach a full m/p, the better, as long as it eventually melts down.

 

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2 minutes ago, birdcharm said:

 

Too funny, it really doesn't make any sense.  How does this stuff get started?  I see so many people concerned that their candle hasn't reached a full melt pool an hour into burning!!  That's crazy!  I like my candles to burn a long time, the longer it takes for it to reach a full m/p, the better, as long as it eventually melts down.

 

Makes perfect sense! 

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