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On 10/21/2020 at 7:06 AM, Lizzy said:

I'm about to dive in and pour testers. I plan on going with my usual testing method which includes full color (liquid dyes) and FO (8%). Wish me luck. LOL
I will report back in a day or two. :)

Good luck!!

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So far I have gone thru 2 10lb slabs.  I just dove into my first 45 pound box (now beads as opposed to slabs)...not gonna lie, it was kinda exciting buying 45lb at once haha.  Sorry...I'm such noob.  I know that is small potatoes compared to most of you.

 

I have had the aforementioned champagne bubbles but they don't really bother me much.  Should they?

 

I have also had some cracking in the wax around the wick during some later burns burns but the cracks usually disappear after a burn or two.  I am mostly testing without FO but I have added some at 8% and the HT was decent.  I could stand it to be a bit stronger but I am hoping that once I narrow down my wicks more that will improve as well without needing to increase the FO%.

 

I haven't noticed any signs of larger sinkholes but I do have a few candles set aside that I am going to dissect further to investigate whenever I can find a time that 2 toddlers are not hanging on my legs wanting to "help".

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4 hours ago, jmspgh said:

So far I have gone thru 2 10lb slabs.  I just dove into my first 45 pound box (now beads as opposed to slabs)...not gonna lie, it was kinda exciting buying 45lb at once haha.  Sorry...I'm such noob.  I know that is small potatoes compared to most of you.

 

I have had the aforementioned champagne bubbles but they don't really bother me much.  Should they?

 

I have also had some cracking in the wax around the wick during some later burns burns but the cracks usually disappear after a burn or two.  I am mostly testing without FO but I have added some at 8% and the HT was decent.  I could stand it to be a bit stronger but I am hoping that once I narrow down my wicks more that will improve as well without needing to increase the FO%.

 

I haven't noticed any signs of larger sinkholes but I do have a few candles set aside that I am going to dissect further to investigate whenever I can find a time that 2 toddlers are not hanging on my legs wanting to "help".

I’m really proud of you! Can’t wait to see what you make with this.  Thanks for sharing 🤗

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I got the bubbles (not champagne bubbles....more like snot bubbles...LOLOL) and cracking too... but the cracking didn't happen until AFTER I heat gunned the tops...plus some frosting on one of the two I poured. Kinda odd being they're the same FO, dye and pour temp.
I did my first test burn 24 hrs after the initial pour. Hot throw was there but being it's a natural wax I will give it more time. Wasn't impressed with cold throw at all. I sniff it every day to see if it's improved and it hasn't. Will test again on Wednesday (7 days after initial pour) 
 

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Sorry for the late update.   I've been kinda unmotivated to experiment recently.

 

I will admit to not controlling the time precisely, but this approximately 9 hours into the burns for HTP-83 and CSN7 and about 11 hours for the CD-6.

 

Some observations:   

 

They look way more similar now than they did in the beginning.

I'm less impressed by the hot throw now after separating them but it's still okay.

The flames end up struggling at times, but always push through.   

I wonder if some of the struggles are caused by the high amount of vanillin in the FO.

I think I still like the CD-6 the best.   The CSN-7 is somewhat tunneling (though not that bad anymore) and there's a small amount of soot in the HTP83 jar.

Obviously the bottom is where the rubber meets the road.

 

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CD 6 looks the best, IMO. I would definitely go in that direction. The slight bit of translucent wax at the rim of the melt pool makes it appear as though it's not burning too hot even that far down the container. Resembles some of the homemade coconut blends I've been playing with. I don't know if it's from the extra 2 hours, but the ROC appears as though it's higher than the others. I can't tell from the first picture if that's the case or if the melt pool is deeper. Looks good either way. Does the glass get too hot to handle?

The HTP 83 looks interesting too. Have you tried the next size up? That might take care of the hang up on the glass. Incomplete combustion, which produces soot, mushrooms, etc., can be caused by wicks that are too small or too large. Might be worth testing a size up just to see.

The CSN... is it doing something weird to the melt pool or is that what the melt pool looks like when it cools?

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Vanillin will absolutely change the burn. Many vanilla/vanillin type FO use powdered resin to get that note. That causes horrible clogging and struggle for wicks.  For those I have used ECO and CDN and sometiems wood wicks depending on the wax and vessel size. 

 

The CD6 looks pretty great from this angle.  If you have a CD7 it might be worth a try. As would an ECO1 or ECO2

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Ok here are the pictures.

 

For reference I used 8% FO + Hot Buttered Rum) with liquid dye (4 drops Honey) and a CD8 wick.

 

The first 2 pictures is after the initial pour. As you can see there's a huge snot bubble...lol...I took the heat gun to it and it took care of it but left me with cracks.

 

The third and fourth pictures are 1.5 hours in. 

 

The fifth and sixth pictures are 2.5 hours in.

 

The seventh and eighth pictures are after the initial test burn. Some mushrooming but I can live with that.

 

I do like the way it burns. The hot throw was ok for a 24 hr cure. The cold throw didn't and still doesn't impress me however. I will definitely pour more testers with other fragrances as Hot Buttered Rum isn't the strongest to begin with.

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3 hours ago, Kerven said:

CD 6 looks the best, IMO. I would definitely go in that direction. The slight bit of translucent wax at the rim of the melt pool makes it appear as though it's not burning too hot even that far down the container. Resembles some of the homemade coconut blends I've been playing with. I don't know if it's from the extra 2 hours, but the ROC appears as though it's higher than the others. I can't tell from the first picture if that's the case or if the melt pool is deeper. Looks good either way. Does the glass get too hot to handle?

The HTP 83 looks interesting too. Have you tried the next size up? That might take care of the hang up on the glass. Incomplete combustion, which produces soot, mushrooms, etc., can be caused by wicks that are too small or too large. Might be worth testing a size up just to see.

The CSN... is it doing something weird to the melt pool or is that what the melt pool looks like when it cools?

None of them got too hot to handle, even that far down.  My thought is that the CD6 smells the best but I have them segregated into different rooms so it's hard to compare different airflows etc.   I plan on rotating them tonight to see if that holds in different rooms.

 

I haven't tried the HTP93's yet but I do have some.   HTP's and CD's are my most commonly used wicks in those jam jars.

 

I'm not 100% sure but I think that the CSN looks like that because I blew it out first, went to get the other two so it had the most time to cool.  It looked normal to me when burning.

 

One thing I will say is that even though the throw isn't spectacular on any of them, the fact that all three wicks mostly work is pretty nice.

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Most of my testing so far with the coco brew has been without FO but a little over a month ago i poured a few candles (various scents) at 8% FO.  I started burning them after curing just over a week and the HT was mediocre.  However, each time I burn one since then the HT has improved.

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6 hours ago, jmspgh said:

Most of my testing so far with the coco brew has been without FO but a little over a month ago i poured a few candles (various scents) at 8% FO.  I started burning them after curing just over a week and the HT was mediocre.  However, each time I burn one since then the HT has improved.

Since it is mostly soy I can see that happening :) I am doing my second test burn today. 

 

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23 hours ago, Lizzy said:

Ok here are the pictures.

 

For reference I used 8% FO + Hot Buttered Rum) with liquid dye (4 drops Honey) and a CD8 wick.

 

The first 2 pictures is after the initial pour. As you can see there's a huge snot bubble...lol...I took the heat gun to it and it took care of it but left me with cracks.

 

The third and fourth pictures are 1.5 hours in. 

 

The fifth and sixth pictures are 2.5 hours in.

 

The seventh and eighth pictures are after the initial test burn. Some mushrooming but I can live with that.

 

I do like the way it burns. The hot throw was ok for a 24 hr cure. The cold throw didn't and still doesn't impress me however. I will definitely pour more testers with other fragrances as Hot Buttered Rum isn't the strongest to begin with.

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Most of mine have holes/craters/air pockets ("snot bubbles" 🤪 whatever you want to call them!) on the surface as well - but the heat gun doesn't seem to get rid of it! Driving me crazy! I also have some cracking and can't seem to make the surface "perfect" (I have had a fair bit of bloom or frosting as well). I've started to try doing a second pour on every candle and that seems to help... but the perfectionist in me won't let it go!

 

And the sweating!! I can't manage to figure it out. What temp are you adding FO and then pouring at? I've tried just about every option and can't seem to get rid of surface air bubbles and sweating. It hasn't been nearly as bad of puddles as my first photos, but even just a day or two into curing I get little beads of sweat. I'm down to a 7-7.5% FL. Starting to realize this is much more soy than coconut and isn't exactly the smoothest transition from coco-83 by comparison..

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12 hours ago, friendlysoutherner said:

 

 

Most of mine have holes/craters/air pockets ("snot bubbles" 🤪 whatever you want to call them!) on the surface as well - but the heat gun doesn't seem to get rid of it! Driving me crazy! I also have some cracking and can't seem to make the surface "perfect" (I have had a fair bit of bloom or frosting as well). I've started to try doing a second pour on every candle and that seems to help... but the perfectionist in me won't let it go!

 

And the sweating!! I can't manage to figure it out. What temp are you adding FO and then pouring at? I've tried just about every option and can't seem to get rid of surface air bubbles and sweating. It hasn't been nearly as bad of puddles as my first photos, but even just a day or two into curing I get little beads of sweat. I'm down to a 7-7.5% FL. Starting to realize this is much more soy than coconut and isn't exactly the smoothest transition from coco-83 by comparison..

I heated this wax to 200. By time it was in my pour pot it was 187. I added my FO and dye right away, stirred for 2 minutes and poured into room temp jars.
The reason I heated to 200 is that I read this wax does better when heated to 200. I am guessing bc of the palm wax that's in this blend. I did get some frosting on the second burn yesterday on top...but haven't had any sweat beads whatsoever. :)

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  • 4 weeks later...

I poured a few testers with a bunch of different FO all at 8%.  It will be 2 weeks tomorrow and since pouring they have all been untouched in an box with lids on.  I just took a peak today because I wanted to see how the cold throw was and for the first time I am seeing some of the seeping mentioned earlier in this thread.  It was only on 2 of the candles...french vanilla/amber and lavender marshmallow from fragrance buddy.  What's strange is that for each of those scents i poured 2 candles and the seeping was only on 1 of each.  The cold throw for the french vanilla amber is strong (it smelled amazing as I was pouring too) so I can probably bump the 8% down some.  Cold throw for the lavender marshmallow is lacking....we shall see how they burn I guess. 

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I finally used up my entire 40lb case of this wax and probably won’t purchase again. I’m sure it’s great once figured out completely but I don’t have the patience lol. I used it for wax melts because I didn’t feel comfortable at all burning candles made with this wax, but once they sell I am transitioning my melt line to IGI6006. I use that for my candles and it seems to do really well in melts also. The appeal of the coco brew for me was the higher fragrance load than pure soy and other soy blends but by the time you go down to 8% or less you might as well use soy haha 

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