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Bill123

GW444 Crater Issues

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Hi all,

 

I'm brand new to candle making and this forum and was just wondering if I am doing something wrong here. After my first burn test for about 3 hours, I noticed these craters in the wax after it cooled. Is this normal and is there anything that can be done to prevent them? Before burning, the top was almost perfectly smooth even without using a heat gun. 

 

This was my process: Heated the 444 to 185, added 8% F.O. (lavender and fraser fir equal parts) at 160, poured at 135 into 8oz tin using a wooden wick. I then let the candle set for 24 hours before burning (I'm thinking this may have been the issue as I've read they are suppose to cure for 1-2 weeks before burning?) I chose not to add the F.O. at the recommended 185 after reading a lot of conflicting information about scent burning off while the wax is cooling and some experienced candle makers adding their fragrances as low as 110, but then fragrance possibly not binding to the wax so I thought I'd try a happy medium of 160.  Anyway, it's looking pretty rough like this so any tips are more than appreciated. I should say I'm only interested in using soy and not paraffin or parasoy blends. Thanks in advance.

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Hello and welcome.

 

that look is typical for soy waxes, like 444, especially with wood wicks.

 

24 hours is definitely not long enough of a cure time with soy, especially 444.

 

my issues with 444 also included large cavities under the surface all the way down the wick.

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6 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

Hello and welcome.

 

that look is typical for soy waxes, like 444, especially with wood wicks.

 

24 hours is definitely not long enough of a cure time with soy, especially 444.

 

my issues with 444 also included large cavities under the surface all the way down the wick.

Thanks for the tips! Is there another soy wax you'd recommend besides the 444? This is the first wax I purchased and I only got a 10 pound bag so I do plan to experiment with other waxes.

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Yep, 444 will do that sometimes when burned. I like 444 though. Have been using it for 11 years.  Haven't noticed any cavities like TallTayl has.

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10 hours ago, GailC said:

Yep, 444 will do that sometimes when burned. I like 444 though. Have been using it for 11 years.  Haven't noticed any cavities like TallTayl has.

Thanks, so it sounds like this is mainly the nature of soy wax

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12 hours ago, GailC said:

Yep, 444 will do that sometimes when burned. I like 444 though. Have been using it for 11 years.  Haven't noticed any cavities like TallTayl has.

Gosh I should send you some from these different lots here.  It is totally unusable. Even blended it causes cavities that take up to 5 fills to make the candle no longer Swiss cheese. It is the reason several fellow chandlers switched permanently away from GB waxes.

 

16 hours ago, Bill123 said:

Thanks for the tips! Is there another soy wax you'd recommend besides the 444? This is the first wax I purchased and I only got a 10 pound bag so I do plan to experiment with other waxes.

each of the commercial blends has its own set of issues.  Elevance C1 has been the most reliable for me, C3 kept me in business for years.  Elite200 is a nice wax.
American Soy Organics has several blends.  I like their midwest soy personally.  It has been super consistent from lot to lot, and is a very nice base to blend my own. 

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1 hour ago, TallTayl said:

Gosh I should send you some from these different lots here.  It is totally unusable. Even blended it causes cavities that take up to 5 fills to make the candle no longer Swiss cheese. It is the reason several fellow chandlers switched permanently away from GB waxes.

 

each of the commercial blends has its own set of issues.  Elevance C1 has been the most reliable for me, C3 kept me in business for years.  Elite200 is a nice wax.
American Soy Organics has several blends.  I like their midwest soy personally.  It has been super consistent from lot to lot, and is a very nice base to blend my own. 

Good to know. I haven't heard of Elevance so I will definitely check that out! 

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Talltayl do you blend C1? I like it but shrinks in glass unless you blend. Great for tins though!

 

Bill, get some samples of other waxes. You can try C1, and C3. Very good reliable waxes. They each have their quirks and you can read the threads here about how to pour and wick them.

If you hate the craters from soy then you have to go for either a paraffin or parasoy wax. It’s really up to how you want to make your candles. 

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1 hour ago, NightLight said:

Talltayl do you blend C1? I like it but shrinks in glass unless you blend. Great for tins though!

 

Bill, get some samples of other waxes. You can try C1, and C3. Very good reliable waxes. They each have their quirks and you can read the threads here about how to pour and wick them.

If you hate the craters from soy then you have to go for either a paraffin or parasoy wax. It’s really up to how you want to make your candles. 

I have used it at 100% and poured at cloudy to minimize shrinkage. It had pretty nice glass adhesion.

 

Since it can vary from lot to lot, for retail I blend it with midwest soy to even out the palm and additive variations. A little coconut wax keeps it from getting that dry look we all dislike. 

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On 7/31/2020 at 7:53 PM, NightLight said:

Talltayl do you blend C1? I like it but shrinks in glass unless you blend. Great for tins though!

 

Bill, get some samples of other waxes. You can try C1, and C3. Very good reliable waxes. They each have their quirks and you can read the threads here about how to pour and wick them.

If you hate the craters from soy then you have to go for either a paraffin or parasoy wax. It’s really up to how you want to make your candles. 

Thanks, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong as far as the craters in soy. I'm fine with them being there as long as it's generally acceptable for soy wax. That was one of the first candles I made so I didn't know that was typical for soy. I guess the candles I owned in the past were paraffin since I don't remember seeing craters. I will be trying C1 and C3 for sure too.

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