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jmspgh

Temps for adding EO to candles

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Hi there. I tried adding EO (lavender) to coconut wax / beeswax candles and I was not thrilled with the results of my first trial. I am looking forward to trying again (and again) and getting this right. It was recommended to melt the coconut wax to 170-180 and pour around 160 but I thought that you aren't supposed to add the EO at a temp above the flash point? When I added the EO and poured around 150 I had issues with jar adhesion. Also, I added the EO at 6% and the hot throw was very minimal. Any thoughts or advise would be greatly appreciated!!

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Flashpoint has nothing to do with pouring the candles. Pour  at the normal wax temperature required to get it to perform properly.

 

If you don’t get any throw it’s either your essential oil, your wick or a combination of the above. Wicking too hot often destroys delicate fragrances. 

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9 hours ago, TallTayl said:

Flashpoint has nothing to do with pouring the candles. Pour  at the normal wax temperature required to get it to perform properly.

 

If you don’t get any throw it’s either your essential oil, your wick or a combination of the above. Wicking too hot often destroys delicate fragrances. 

Thanks so much!  I was confusing myself with all the different temperatures I think.  I tried 5 different wicks (ECO 2, ECO 4, ECO 6, CD 7 and CD 9).  Mixed 32oz coconut wax (calwax ccn1) and 3oz white beeswax and my container has an inner diameter of just under 3 inches.  None of the candles are burning particularly well.  So far the CD 9 seems to look the best.  I will attach a picture...it is from about 30 minutes into the 2nd burn (1st burn was just over 3 hours).  Any suggestions on wicks to try for my next trial?  I am just starting out and all the different wick options still make my mind numb. I have a variety pack of ECO and CD but am more than open to buying/testing different types.

IMG_20200531_082854146_MP.jpg

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If you go to candlescience.com and search for their wick guide chart, it'll let you put in what time of wax you use and the diameter or the jar and they''ll recommend a wick, and then the runner up.   For instance, I use 464 soy, and  the diameter of my container is between 2.2" - 2.69" and they recommended the CD8... and it worked! 

https://www.candlescience.com/learning/wick-guide

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Thanks! They dont have the wax I am using as an option but I think it will give me a good starting point.

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You need to burn your candle for three hours before determining next wick size. Beeswax can be a real pain to to wick as batches can vary.  Burn that candle three hours and see where you get with it. Then decide to go to higher or lower wick. CDs burn hot, so do htp wicks.

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That first pic looks like a nice early burn.  Keep going. If the wick begins to snuff itself out, try another size up. If the flame grows tall and gets dancy, wick down. Coconut wax can get pretty warm and melty by the midpoint.  Keep an eye on things especially the glass temp as it can climb quickly toward the end. 

 

coconut and beeswax do well for me with CD usually, or CSN. I have no idea what is in the ccn1 aside from coconut oil. It could be anything, and that will define limitations of the wicks. 

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Thanks everyone! I have burnt that candle 4 times now for 3-5 hours each time. I'll attach a pic but it's staying pretty steady all the way down. Flame has looked alright and the outside of the jar has been cool enough that I can comfortably move it while burning. I poured a few new testers yesterday with slightly larger wicks. I did change the wax ratio some as when I put one of the candles from that batch in a box in my car (about 80 degrees outside) it got very very soft after a few hours. Not melted but I could easily push my finger through it. Worried me about shipping things in the future. I increased the beeswax to 20% to see if that helps. When I ordered some FO to try I threw in a sample pack of premier and htp wicks to have around. I didn't see csn at flaming candle but will look elsewhere.

IMG_20200612_064224901.jpg

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I would just add all candles wax including parasoy and straight paraffin would greatly benefit from curing. People will say you can light a paraffin candle once it’s solid and get a nice hot throw and that’s true with some f.o. But in my experience curing makes a difference.

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3 hours ago, CandleRush said:

I would just add all candles wax including parasoy and straight paraffin would greatly benefit from curing. People will say you can light a paraffin candle once it’s solid and get a nice hot throw and that’s true with some f.o. But in my experience curing makes a difference.

 

 

I let the first batch (which included the one in the picture) cure for a week.  Planning on doing that for the second batch as well.  Would you recommend longer than that for a coconut wax/beeswax blend?

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Longer is better with all vege waxes.  I would try cutting back the beeswax to 2% of total coco wax and see if adhesion is better.  It's not important if just wet spots but I wouldn't want the entire candle to be loose in the container.

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9 hours ago, kandlekrazy said:

 I would try cutting back the beeswax to 2% of total coco wax and see if adhesion is better.  It's not important if just wet spots but I wouldn't want the entire candle to be loose in the container.

I did about 9% beeswax to start but i felt I needed to harden the candle up as it got really soft in a box in my car on a mildly hot day. Which worried me about shipping in the future. The adhesion for those wasn't perfect but it was still solid in the jar. I'm not sure about wet spots as the jar is matte. So far the adhesion for the 20% beeswax batch seems a little better around the top of the candle (maybe because I poured them hotter and cooled on a rack??). I am really trying to take my time with this and learn everything that I can to make a good product that I am proud of. I am a bit of a perfectionist so I'm also trying to keep that in check. This forum has been soo helpful. I appreciate every bit of advise, suggestion and word of encouragement.😊

 

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1 hour ago, jmspgh said:

I did about 9% beeswax to start but i felt I needed to harden the candle up as it got really soft in a box in my car on a mildly hot day. Which worried me about shipping in the future. The adhesion for those wasn't perfect but it was still solid in the jar. I'm not sure about wet spots as the jar is matte. So far the adhesion for the 20% beeswax batch seems a little better around the top of the candle (maybe because I poured them hotter and cooled on a rack??). I am really trying to take my time with this and learn everything that I can to make a good product that I am proud of. I am a bit of a perfectionist so I'm also trying to keep that in check. This forum has been soo helpful. I appreciate every bit of advise, suggestion and word of encouragement.😊

 

You might want to keep in mind that my regions can get really hot during summer time.  Southwest regions like Palm Springs CA, Las Vegas NV, Phoenix AZ, New Mexico and maybe some Texas can get really hot during summer.  When outside temperature is around 108F, cargo area of UPS truck will be about 147F.  I stopped UPS truck and tried to measure temperature of the back area, but driver already had kept thermometer in the back.  Not that many candle would survive in back of UPS trucks during summer in our region.

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