CD 14 and CD 16 Flame going out

[karinz40]

I am testing Flaming candle soft pro blend 400 wax in 8 oz tins with 3 " opening

One has CD 14 One has CD 16

I poured with no color and no fo

I poked a hole in each for a  piece of wick put in.

Both burned for about 45 min and had almost full melt pool and then about 15 min later drowned.

The flame looked a little large and had some soot but otherwise looked ok

What is wrong???

 

[NightLight]

The wicks are too large for the wax. 45 minutes is not long to burn for meltpool. Wax melted and drowned wick. That wax is very soft and melts fast so you need a much smaller wick and you want to aim for a safe three hour burn.

[karinz40]

OK w8ll try smaller tomorrow    any sugestions?

[TallTayl]

Tins are very shallow for untabbed wick tests. If it’s slightly over wicked the short wick will tip over and self extinguish.

 

for tins a tab is usually needed to hold things together. Swap them out easily using an Apple corer by doing a wickectomy. 
 

 

[karinz40]

I don't understand

[TallTayl]

8 minutes ago, karinz40 said:

I don't understand

yu mentioned inthe original ost that you poked a hole in the wax of a tin to stuff a wick to test.  In a tin, which is shallow, there is not much support for a wick without a tab to stand.  The short length of unsupported wick tips over easily, self-extinguishing.  To get an accurate rea on a wick in a shallow container, like a tin, you need a wick sustainer tab attached to the wick to keep it from tipping over.

[karinz40]

you mean glue in the whole wick in the container and pour and then test 

[NightLight]

No instead of a piece of wick to test use a portion of wick with pick tab. Shallow containers especially metal one which get hot will need support to test wicks. If 14 was drowning start testing 12, 10, 8 three hour burns. If still burning to fast go down again.

[karinz40]

pick tab?  no clue how to hold this up

[karinz40]

I'm lost on how to keep the wick standing.  If the wax is soft and i use say a cd 10 and it should work will the wick still stand up.

I have no idea how to hold up the wick.  i cannot be that stupid

[TallTayl]

Here's a link to the wickectomy thread.

 

Instead of cutting the metal part of the wick, use the part attached to the metal tab to stabilize the wick in short tins. 

[karinz40]

 

OK I need to get a corer os some sort I guess,  But I see what you are doing.

I'll see what I can come up with  thsanks

[TallTayl]

You may be able to use a thin knife (like a filet knife) to cut around little circle to get going. It won’t be quite as pretty but it’ll get the job done

[karinz40]

that's hat I just tried.  Will work but messy,  I  heated tops to smooth and put in frig for a little bit.

Will try tomorrow.  i should have more patience then.  Maybe a soft paraffin is not the way to go but I have heard that this one hold FO and works great.

I mad another with wick CD 10 and .50fo in .50 oz wax  Will see what happens tomorrow,

Hoping this one works.

Now I know what an apple correr is at least from the video.  never saw one before.

[TallTayl]

The core tool was life changing for me. I hope you love it. 

[karinz40]

One more question actually 2

1. How big should the burn pool be in how many hours and should it have a good fo when? How long to burn each tine etc..

2.To test should I do no color and no fo or do a test one just like I want to have a a final?

[TallTayl]

2 hours ago, karinz40 said:

One more question actually 2

1. How big should the burn pool be in how many hours and should it have a good fo when? How long to burn each tine etc..

2.To test should I do no color and no fo or do a test one just like I want to have a a final?

I tend to shoot for a full pool on the late second or even third 3-hour burn. a little hang up is AOK in a tin. The way they conduct heat is so different from glass. If wicked well the wax is always all gone by the end. 

 

I have not used your wax, but in soy it often takes a good 15-20 minutes to get throwing on the first burn in a tin. the convection builds the deeper into the tin you get. 

 

When testing a new wax it is always a good idea to try the wax all by itself to set your baseline. I know people like to disagree, but I find FO is the biggest variable in all candles. Those I am testing now vary between 3 wick series and several sizes in each series in the same wax and container. The only difference is the FO. If I did not understand the wax I would be in a world of confusion.

[Forrest]

2 hours ago, karinz40 said:

One more question actually 2

1. How big should the burn pool be in how many hours and should it have a good fo when? How long to burn each tine etc..

2.To test should I do no color and no fo or do a test one just like I want to have a a final?

I’ll throw my 2 cents in here. I have several 8oz tins that I consider to be as close to perfectly wicked as I’m going to get, and after six burns of three hours each none of them had a FMP. My goal is to have the smallest wick that will burn all the wax in the candle. Having some unmelted wax on the walls of my containers seems to help my HT. Your second question is a matter of preference and the subject of much debate. My opinion is that it is good to establish a baseline wick, but you’ll still need to test every different FO. I did that with my old wax, but with the advent of the wickectomy I felt I didn't need to with my new wax.

[karinz40]

Great advise from  from both of you and I will get busy tomorrow.

The 8 oz tin I made this PM with the Pro 400 from Flaming Looks good, I am starting with a CD 10 and I used fo Royal Wedding from Southwest Candle and The tin just sitting there has a great scent already,  Hope it does well lit.

Thanks so much

[karinz40]

While I'm think of it and if you wouldn't mind my asking , what wax do you both use for your candles and tins?

[Forrest]

7 hours ago, karinz40 said:

While I'm think of it and if you wouldn't mind my asking , what wax do you both use for your candles and tins?

I used IGI 6006 for a long time and 4630 for a while. Now I use 4627 in my tins to get better HT. I looked back at my data and the biggest CD wick I put in a tin was a CD6. I would recommend you start small and work your way up. I find it easier to work my way up than to work my way down. Most of the tins I’m doing now have wicks smaller than a CD5, but the FOs I’m using seem to like small wicks.

[TallTayl]

Are you both using the same size tins?

[Forrest]

9 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

Are you both using the same size tins?

I think so, I use 8oz tins with a 3" opening, usually purchased from Flaming.

[TallTayl]

Just now, Forrest said:

I think so, I use 8oz tins with a 3" opening, usually purchased from Flaming.

Cool.  Some peeps on this forum use 4 or 6 oz tins 🥰

[Forrest]

5 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

Cool.  Some peeps on this forum use 4 or 6 oz tins 🥰

I have some 4oz tins, but I doubt I have a wick small enough for them. I thought about getting some bigger tins, but my next project is 4627 in 11oz tureens with the Lab & Co FOs. I believe I'm ready to make the candles I've always wanted to make.