6006 and CD wicks

[dustinryan2010]

I’ve been using CD wicks with 6006 in my 9oz straights, so far the throw has been great and not really experiencing any soot. I’ve been wicking to leave some hang up on the first half of the candle. Right towards the middle of the candle, the flame gets sort of small, Im thinking maybe the wax cling on the walls of the vessel is melting and the wicks trying to catch up. The flame stays small for a few burns during the middle of the candle, and once all the cling catches up and melts down, the flame returns to normal throughout the rest of the candle. Would you guys wick up? Or call this a success? Don’t want too weak of a flame. It’s about a half inch tall flame 

[Forrest]

What I would do is to continue testing until the very end, if at that point you still have a lot of wax on the sides I would wick up. But others here know more than I do when it comes to jars.

[bfroberts]

If you aren’t sure, make another tester one wick size up to compare. Then choose the one you think is best.  I find it helpful to do a side by side comparison.

[dustinryan2010]

2 minutes ago, bfroberts said:

If you aren’t sure, make another tester one wick size up to compare. Then choose the one you think is best.  I find it helpful to do a side by side comparison.

Yes I did that actually, this ones a CD3 I did a CD4 as well but that flame was a little unruly the first few burns so I just stopped and continued on with this one. This is the same candle on the next round of burning, flames much better!

[dustinryan2010]

20 minutes ago, Forrest said:

What I would do is to continue testing until the very end, if at that point you still have a lot of wax on the sides I would wick up. But others here know more than I do when it comes to jars.

After the halfway point in the jar, my candles will (usually), finally come to a complete edge to edge melt pool and it’s an even steady burn from there on out. There’s just one or two burns towards the middle where the clings catching up, where the flame does look to be struggling a little. But it always catches up have yet to have one drown. I think I’m being too paranoid haha 

Edited May 1, 2020 by dustinryan2010

[bfroberts]

32 minutes ago, dustinryan2010 said:

Yes I did that actually, this ones a CD3 I did a CD4 as well but that flame was a little unruly the first few burns so I just stopped and continued on with this one. This is the same candle on the next round of burning, flames much better!

Sounds like you’ve covered the bases. The only thing I can add is to make sure it’s fully cured because the burn can change as the candle ages. I’ve found that if it’s slightly overwicked initially, it usually settles into being just right after 2-3 weeks.  
Also, you can always try a different wick series if you feel like you need an in-between size. 

[dustinryan2010]

49 minutes ago, bfroberts said:

Sounds like you’ve covered the bases. The only thing I can add is to make sure it’s fully cured because the burn can change as the candle ages. I’ve found that if it’s slightly overwicked initially, it usually settles into being just right after 2-3 weeks.  
Also, you can always try a different wick series if you feel like you need an in-between size. 

Yeah these guys sat on a shelf 3.5 weeks before I began burning. I have a question, just something I noticed.. my candles seem to have better HT after the first few burns, any idea as to why? At this mid point, my candles become very strong and start to throw well. I wish they Threw this well from the first burn 

[ErronB]

Funny I'm testing the exact same wick in a 6006 jar too, except mine is a bit smaller diameter, it's a flint jar like B&BW. 

 

I see people all the time using way bigger CD wicks and now it makes sense. They must be trimming them after every burn and not burning for long periods of time, there's just no other way they can work. I just started the CD3 off at 1/2 inch before lighting and looks good so far, I'm just over half way down. 8% FO load, 1 drop of dye.

[dustinryan2010]

7 hours ago, ErronB said:

Funny I'm testing the exact same wick in a 6006 jar too, except mine is a bit smaller diameter, it's a flint jar like B&BW. 

 

I see people all the time using way bigger CD wicks and now it makes sense. They must be trimming them after every burn and not burning for long periods of time, there's just no other way they can work. I just started the CD3 off at 1/2 inch before lighting and looks good so far, I'm just over half way down. 8% FO load, 1 drop of dye.

I’m using the same jar pretty much! I’ve read so many times how people hate CD’s with 6006 so I stayed away for a long time but I really think I like them! They must be overwicking. After the first few burns, I rarely find a need to trim the wick. Less maintenance is the best 

[ErronB]

5 hours ago, dustinryan2010 said:

I’m using the same jar pretty much! I’ve read so many times how people hate CD’s with 6006 so I stayed away for a long time but I really think I like them! They must be overwicking. After the first few burns, I rarely find a need to trim the wick. Less maintenance is the best 

 

I'm either gonna have to drop the fragrance load a bit back to 6 or 7, or find a CD2 wick. It's getting a bit smoky towards the bottom. Not that it's unusual for a candle to do that, I just like it to be best as it can be.

[dustinryan2010]

5 hours ago, ErronB said:

 

I'm either gonna have to drop the fragrance load a bit back to 6 or 7, or find a CD2 wick. It's getting a bit smoky towards the bottom. Not that it's unusual for a candle to do that, I just like it to be best as it can be.

I haven’t experienced that yet, I use 6% fragrance load for all scents 

[dustinryan2010]

8 hours ago, ErronB said:

 

I'm either gonna have to drop the fragrance load a bit back to 6 or 7, or find a CD2 wick. It's getting a bit smoky towards the bottom. Not that it's unusual for a candle to do that, I just like it to be best as it can be.

Scratch that.. a few scents are now smoking and getting a little hotter than I’d like with CD3. The beginning of the candles have been burning beautifully but they’re showing their butt’s now that we’re in the lower half of the candle. Bittercreek is the only company that carries 6 inch CD 2’s. The cheapest form of shipping they offer, is 22.00... they only ship UPS and FedEx? No USPS? Either way, screw that.  I’m truly beginning to think that these flint/straight side/jelly jars are just way too small of a vessel for 6006. Ive tried HTP, Zinc, LX, Eco, CD. Zinc came the closest, but I don’t like that you MUST trim them. Many customers don’t and won’t, no matter how much you stress the importance. I’m unsure what to do now. I don’t wanna waste 40.00 on CD2’s that will inevitably be too much as well. I just ordered 60 pounds of 6006 so I don’t wanna change waxes. I have a larger diameter container here that’s closer to 3 inches. I’m going to see what I can do with it before I bail on 6006. Sad day.

[ErronB]

1 hour ago, dustinryan2010 said:

Scratch that.. a few scents are now smoking and getting a little hotter than I’d like with CD3. The beginning of the candles have been burning beautifully but they’re showing their butt’s now that we’re in the lower half of the candle. Bittercreek is the only company that carries 6 inch CD 2’s. The cheapest form of shipping they offer, is 22.00... they only ship UPS and FedEx? No USPS? Either way, screw that.  I’m truly beginning to think that these flint/straight side/jelly jars are just way too small of a vessel for 6006. Ive tried HTP, Zinc, LX, Eco, CD. Zinc came the closest, but I don’t like that you MUST trim them. Many customers don’t and won’t, no matter how much you stress the importance. I’m unsure what to do now. I don’t wanna waste 40.00 on CD2’s that will inevitably be too much as well. I just ordered 60 pounds of 6006 so I don’t wanna change waxes. I have a larger diameter container here that’s closer to 3 inches. I’m going to see what I can do with it before I bail on 6006. Sad day.

 

I totally get ya, that's why I kinda liked wooden wicks, almost no maintenance, but even with priming they still won't start the burn right all the time. I look at it like this... When CD is too big, I go to the small sizes of HTP like 41,52,62. They don't burn as hot so it's less HT, but that's the trade-off you make. Sometimes with some scents it works out better than way it's just a crapshoot like always, gotta just test each fragrance to figure it out.

[bfroberts]

10 hours ago, dustinryan2010 said:

 I’m truly beginning to think that these flint/straight side/jelly jars are just way too small of a vessel for 6006. Ive tried HTP, Zinc, LX, Eco, CD. Zinc came the closest, but I don’t like that you MUST trim them. Many customers don’t and won’t, no matter how much you stress the importance. I’m unsure what to do now. I don’t wanna waste 40.00 on CD2’s that will inevitably be too much as well. I just ordered 60 pounds of 6006 so I don’t wanna change waxes. I have a larger diameter container here that’s closer to 3 inches. I’m going to see what I can do with it before I bail on 6006. Sad day.

This jar shouldn’t be tough.  What problems are you having with other wick types....HTP, LX, Eco?

[dustinryan2010]

15 hours ago, bfroberts said:

This jar shouldn’t be tough.  What problems are you having with other wick types....HTP, LX, Eco?

A lot of mushrooming and a little soot with LX, Eco burned too hot But threw so well! and HTP’s as well, 52 or 62 could’ve worked but couldn’t coax a decent flame out of them. Puny little flame Looked ridiculous. Zincs, mushroom heaven, 100% need for trimming or you’re gonna have a flame from hell.  The smallest size of most lines of wicks just still seems to be too much almost. It’s like mushrooming is inevitable and makes me feel like I’m over wicked. Trimmed burns are great, Untrimmed results in a big bouncy erratic smokey flame with a little mushrooming And I only use 6% and always cure no less than 2-3 weeks. I’m trying to find a wick that I can feel confident enough to sell knowing a lot of customers won’t be trimming. I’m satisfied with my controlled trimmed burns, but I get nervous about what could happen if they weren’t to be trimming like they should be. I cannot with down any further without getting into tea light territory. It’s crazy how soft and easy to burn this damn wax is! I guess I’m going to have to accept that a candle that doesn’t require trimming just isn’t always possible. 

[bfroberts]

@dustinryan2010 In the past, I’ve had great luck with LX 16-ish, Eco 4-6, HTP 73-ish, zinc...something in the 44’s, so ordinarily I’d say you are wicking too small.  
 

BUT......
 

About a year ago I bought a couple of cases of 6006 that just didn’t burn well.  It seemed like it was more viscous, like all of a sudden the wicks I had been using could no longer draw up the wax.  I did a lot of extensive testing and Eco wicks were the best.  They burn hotter, and they were the only wicks that didn’t seem to struggle so badly, but I couldn’t find a good fit for all my containers.  It was a testing nightmare.  Eventually I just found a better wax.

 

I mention all that because if you really can’t wick that jar with any of the suggested wicks, you may have some of that junky 6006.  I haven’t heard of anyone else noticing a change in 6006, and when I asked a supplier they weren’t aware of any change.  But I know what I know. Something was off with that wax.  

Edited May 4, 2020 by bfroberts

[dustinryan2010]

1 hour ago, bfroberts said:

@dustinryan2010 In the past, I’ve had great luck with LX 16-ish, Eco 4-6, HTP 73-ish, zinc...something in the 44’s, so ordinarily I’d say you are wicking too small.  
 

BUT......
 

About a year ago I bought a couple of cases of 6006 that just didn’t burn well.  It seemed like it was more viscous, like all of a sudden the wicks I had been using could no longer draw up the wax.  I did a lot of extensive testing and Eco wicks were the best.  They burn hotter, and they were the only wicks that didn’t seem to struggle so badly, but I couldn’t find a good fit for all my containers.  It was a testing nightmare.  Eventually I just found a better wax.

 

I mention all that because if you really can’t wick that jar with any of the suggested wicks, you may have some of that junky 6006.  I haven’t heard of anyone else noticing a change in 6006, and when I asked a supplier they weren’t aware of any change.  But I know what I know. Something was off with that wax.  

See I felt the same way, I thought there’s no way this can be right. I mean granted I do wick to leave a good solid wax ring around the jar for the first few burns, which Then turns into a wall, which eventually melts down into the pool. But a wick for votives? Crazy. Something must definitely be off because if I put an eco 6 in one of these candles I would have a sooty fire ball! I plan to mess with a larger vessel and eco wicks, gonna see what I can concoct. I’ve thought about trying some other waxes as well. I experimented with 4627 briefly but remember it being pretty sooty. I think I read you comment somewhere before that you preferred one of the CBL’s for single wicked containers, which one was it again? I can’t seem to remember now 

[bfroberts]

9 hours ago, dustinryan2010 said:

See I felt the same way, I thought there’s no way this can be right. I mean granted I do wick to leave a good solid wax ring around the jar for the first few burns, which Then turns into a wall, which eventually melts down into the pool. But a wick for votives? Crazy. Something must definitely be off because if I put an eco 6 in one of these candles I would have a sooty fire ball! I plan to mess with a larger vessel and eco wicks, gonna see what I can concoct. I’ve thought about trying some other waxes as well. I experimented with 4627 briefly but remember it being pretty sooty. I think I read you comment somewhere before that you preferred one of the CBL’s for single wicked containers, which one was it again? I can’t seem to remember now 

I’ve been happy with CBL 125 & CBL 130. The 129 has an excellent throw and is easy to wick, but it requires repours and it’s had a bad inconsistency issue lately.  4627 & 4630 also have great throw.  
They are all good in their own way, but they all come with their own quirks too. 

[ErronB]

On 5/4/2020 at 12:16 PM, bfroberts said:

I’ve been happy with CBL 125 & CBL 130. The 129 has an excellent throw and is easy to wick, but it requires repours and it’s had a bad inconsistency issue lately.  4627 & 4630 also have great throw.  
They are all good in their own way, but they all come with their own quirks too. 

 

I just ordered all 3 to try out, I can't get this latest 6006 to wick properly at all, nothing will self-trim,  looking forward to trying out the new stuff!

[TallTayl]

I have a couple ideas that have solved similar problems in that jar (with different waxes) in my shop.

 

1) wicks. For in between when cd is not quite right, CSN is my next choice, followed by CDN.  They burn just different enough to improve over the CD.  Rarely do HTP or lx work well for me. 
 

2) if it is slightly too hot at the bottom, either
a) pour a harder to burn wax for the last 1/2-3/4 inch or so. When the candle gets toward the bottom, the harder wax, like 444, 464, C3,C1, etc. can take the extra heat from the flame and convection. It will usually end up a clean, safe candle. if you scent that hard layer it will throw well also.
 

b) if the difference in wax is apparent rough a clear jar, (makes a visible line that you find unattractive) make a tea light size puck or short votive of a harder wax and thread your wick through it when you set your wick into the jar. pour your 6006 around it to conceal it. Same principle as (a) in that the harder wax will slow the burn down at the crucial point. It is more work, but also provides a stiffer joint between the metal wick tab and the floppy flat wicks to help keep them standing tall without a lean for the candle’s life. 
 

I find smaller jars harder to wick than larger. Things heat up quickly and make an otherwise perfect candle a nightmare. 

[ErronB]

10 hours ago, TallTayl said:

I have a couple ideas that have solved similar problems in that jar (with different waxes) in my shop.

 

1) wicks. For in between when cd is not quite right, CSN is my next choice, followed by CDN.  They burn just different enough to improve over the CD.  Rarely do HTP or lx work well for me. 
 

2) if it is slightly too hot at the bottom, either
a) pour a harder to burn wax for the last 1/2-3/4 inch or so. When the candle gets toward the bottom, the harder wax, like 444, 464, C3,C1, etc. can take the extra heat from the flame and convection. It will usually end up a clean, safe candle. if you scent that hard layer it will throw well also.
 

b) if the difference in wax is apparent rough a clear jar, (makes a visible line that you find unattractive) make a tea light size puck or short votive of a harder wax and thread your wick through it when you set your wick into the jar. pour your 6006 around it to conceal it. Same principle as (a) in that the harder wax will slow the burn down at the crucial point. It is more work, but also provides a stiffer joint between the metal wick tab and the floppy flat wicks to help keep them standing tall without a lean for the candle’s life. 
 

I find smaller jars harder to wick than larger. Things heat up quickly and make an otherwise perfect candle a nightmare. 

That’s interesting I’ve got literally every single wick types except those LOL, will have to give them a go.

[dustinryan2010]

On 5/20/2020 at 9:37 AM, TallTayl said:

I have a couple ideas that have solved similar problems in that jar (with different waxes) in my shop.

 

1) wicks. For in between when cd is not quite right, CSN is my next choice, followed by CDN.  They burn just different enough to improve over the CD.  Rarely do HTP or lx work well for me. 
 

2) if it is slightly too hot at the bottom, either
a) pour a harder to burn wax for the last 1/2-3/4 inch or so. When the candle gets toward the bottom, the harder wax, like 444, 464, C3,C1, etc. can take the extra heat from the flame and convection. It will usually end up a clean, safe candle. if you scent that hard layer it will throw well also.
 

b) if the difference in wax is apparent rough a clear jar, (makes a visible line that you find unattractive) make a tea light size puck or short votive of a harder wax and thread your wick through it when you set your wick into the jar. pour your 6006 around it to conceal it. Same principle as (a) in that the harder wax will slow the burn down at the crucial point. It is more work, but also provides a stiffer joint between the metal wick tab and the floppy flat wicks to help keep them standing tall without a lean for the candle’s life. 
 

I find smaller jars harder to wick than larger. Things heat up quickly and make an otherwise perfect candle a nightmare. 

I think I need to pick up some CDN and CSN’s. And yes smaller jars have been a nightmare. I purchased some larger jars. They’re in the middle of the 2 week cure. Wish me luck! Haha 

[dustinryan2010]

On 5/4/2020 at 11:16 AM, bfroberts said:

I’ve been happy with CBL 125 & CBL 130. The 129 has an excellent throw and is easy to wick, but it requires repours and it’s had a bad inconsistency issue lately.  4627 & 4630 also have great throw.  
They are all good in their own way, but they all come with their own quirks too. 

I’m considering ordering CBL 130! What are the differences between it and 6006? I wanna give it a shot but don’t wanna waste 50 bucks if it’s pretty much identical to 6006

[bfroberts]

1 hour ago, dustinryan2010 said:

I’m considering ordering CBL 130! What are the differences between it and 6006? I wanna give it a shot but don’t wanna waste 50 bucks if it’s pretty much identical to 6006

It has more soy.  Burns better, cleaner, and has a creamier appearance. A little pickier about FO, but overall I think it is a superior wax.

[dustinryan2010]

5 hours ago, bfroberts said:

It has more soy.  Burns better, cleaner, and has a creamier appearance. A little pickier about FO, but overall I think it is a superior wax.

Say less lol. Just ordered 10 pounds to play with hehe