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Homemade candles not working, HELP!


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Hi, 

 

I've started making candles with soy wax and whatever I do they do not work! 

 

Not only are they getting serious sinkage, but when I light then the flame is tiny then dies, and the flame tunnels. 

 

I've read a lot of material and done everything it says - dont cut the wick too short, pour at 140-160, dont set in a freezing room- but it is still happening. 

 

Am I missing something? Im only using standard wicks, and 150ml containers and teacups? 

 

Kind regards

 

Vicy 

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We are going to need a little more information here so members here can better help you out.

1 What wax are you using

2 what fragrance oil and how much are you using

3 what kind of dyes if any

4 What container and are you cleaning and or heating them

5 What wick

6 temperature in the room you are making them

7 how long after making them before you are testing

8 what temperature are you adding fragrance oil

 

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Hi CaptnKush, 

 

1. 100% soy wax

2. Teaspoon of sandalwood fragrance oil per 200ml wax

3. Half a teaspoon of mica powder

4. Vintage teacups (washed and dried), metal 100ml containers and larger glass jars from candle supply store

5. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07XSH3KHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6. A moderately warm kitchen (heatings on) 

7. 2 days

8. 160-180

 

Karen Ov- I am wondering about the wicks. The flame just burns right where the wax is and leaves the top half of the wick just charred.....

 

Thanks for your help guys....

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Vicy,

I know exactly how you feel, because I felt that way once. Then I found this board. I did a lot of searching, and I ask a lot of questions. What I found was that candle making is hard, and it takes time to learn. The internet is full of bad information, but there are a lot of helpful people on this board. The question I would ask you is why soy? I ask this because soy is much harder to learn on.

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Measure everything by weight, not volume.  Use 1 oz FO per 1 lb of wax.  Heat to 185, add FO at 185, stir 2 minutes, and then cool to your desired pour temp. Do NOT use mics for color. It may be clogging your wick.  Cure 2 weeks before burning.  I am not familiar with your wax, but Eco 14 is probably in the ballpark for a 3” diameter container.  Make a candle as suggested and it should burn much better.  Then you can fine tune your wicking as needed.

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I would also caution against using YouTube, Facebook, blogs, etc for info.  A lot of it is extremely inaccurate, and it is very hard to tell good advice from bad when you are just starting out.  This forum is the best place to learn.  There are hundreds of threads regarding soy with a wealth of info within.

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I'd just like to add that because your teacups are beautiful and colorful, I would not dye the wax at all.  The creamy color would look great.  If you want to color soy in the clear jars, I would recommend using liquid dye made for candles.  It's by far the easiest to incorporate into wax.  The chips works as well but it takes some prep of the chip and lots of stirring or you end up with specks.

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2 hours ago, Forrest said:

Vicy,

 

I know exactly how you feel, because I felt that way once. Then I found this board. I did a lot of searching, and I ask a lot of questions. What I found was that candle making is hard, and it takes time to learn. The internet is full of bad information, but there are a lot of helpful people on this board. The question I would ask you is why soy? I ask this because soy is much harder to learn on.

 

 I didn't realise soy was difficult! I went for it as it seemed a more natural product. Is there a better wax for beginners? 

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42 minutes ago, kandlekrazy said:

I'd just like to add that because your teacups are beautiful and colorful, I would not dye the wax at all.  The creamy color would look great.  If you want to color soy in the clear jars, I would recommend using liquid dye made for candles.  It's by far the easiest to incorporate into wax.  The chips works as well but it takes some prep of the chip and lots of stirring or you end up with specks.

 

Good point. To be fair the colours never turn out as i hope they will so natural might be best! 

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43 minutes ago, Vicy said:

 I didn't realise soy was difficult! I went for it as it seemed a more natural product. Is there a better wax for beginners? 

To me the biggest advantage of paraffin is cure time. I let mine cure a week, but most people will only wait a few days. It slows the learning process if you have to wait two weeks to tell if your candle is good or not. Paraffin is also more consistent from batch to batch.    

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3 hours ago, bfroberts said:

Measure everything by weight, not volume.  Use 1 oz FO per 1 lb of wax.  Heat to 185, add FO at 185, stir 2 minutes, and then cool to your desired pour temp. Do NOT use mics for color. It may be clogging your wick.  Cure 2 weeks before burning.  I am not familiar with your wax, but Eco 14 is probably in the ballpark for a 3” diameter container.  Make a candle as suggested and it should burn much better.  Then you can fine tune your wicking as needed.

What do you think the ideal pour temp is? A leaflet with a gift set said 140, but online said 180 but both caused a slight collapse! The last try I warmed up my containers and glasses on the radiator so they weren't cold. 

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1 hour ago, Vicy said:

 I didn't realise soy was difficult! I went for it as it seemed a more natural product. Is there a better wax for beginners? 

I started with soy almost a year ago with all the same questions, but I'm still using it, and have come a long way, even though I'm still learning.. Soy is difficult but just like other waxes people still have some problems.Look for a wick guide to help with diameter of your jar .I use cd wick for soy 464 and they work really well.. 

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25 minutes ago, Karen Ov said:

I started with soy almost a year ago with all the same questions, but I'm still using it, and have come a long way, even though I'm still learning.. Soy is difficult but just like other waxes people still have some problems.Look for a wick guide to help with diameter of your jar .I use cd wick for soy 464 and they work really well.. 

Every wax has its own set of problems, so does every wick, that's what makes this so much fun.

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1 hour ago, Vicy said:

What do you think the ideal pour temp is? A leaflet with a gift set said 140, but online said 180 but both caused a slight collapse! The last try I warmed up my containers and glasses on the radiator so they weren't cold. 

Optimal pour temp could be anything. Not knowing what wax you are using makes it impossible to recommend.  I’d start with the pour temp recommended by the manufacturer and adjust from there.  Pour temps affect the aesthetics of the candle.  If you are experiencing holes under the surface, adhesion issues, unattractive tops, that kind of thing, adjusting the pour temp can help. 

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Your wax, wick and container combination do not seem right. Have you tried making a candle without adding any color or fragrance?  If not, I would suggest you start there. 

 

1. Make a candle with just your wax, wick and container. 

2. If the candle burns as you expect, then and only then make another candle and add fragrance this time. The more variables you add the more difficult the candle becomes to burn properly. If the candle does not burn as you expect then you should adjust your wax, wick or container combinations before moving on to dyes and fragrances. 

 

Save your fragrance and dye until you have found your base. (Wax, wick and container combination.)

 

I hope this helps.

 

 

 

 

 

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41 minutes ago, Forrest said:

People get into candle making to learn to make candles, but what happens is you spend money and learn patience.

 

Kind of like that crafting quote we all see... (updated for candle costs, lol) 

why spend $20 on a candle when I can make one for $2,398 in supplies and failed tests? 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update- as suggested, I made a simple candle - no colours, mica or fragrance- let it cure for 2 weeks, and it burns perfectly! Its been going for 30 mins, wide burn pool and strong flame. So its definitely what I'm adding. Tomorrow I will do the same, but add fragrance and again leave for 2 weeks then test that. Slowly but surely I'm getting there! 

 

Thanks everyone x

20200222_170535.jpg

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  • 11 months later...

Hello, I am also new to making candles and already purchased mica powder before I knew it shouldn't be used! One of my many mistakes, but is there a way to use mica to color a candle safely, without it clogging the wick? Please let me know, I don't have any other use for all this mica I already bought! Thanks! 

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14 minutes ago, Kellies Candles said:

Hello, I am also new to making candles and already purchased mica powder before I knew it shouldn't be used! One of my many mistakes, but is there a way to use mica to color a candle safely, without it clogging the wick? Please let me know, I don't have any other use for all this mica I already bought! Thanks! 

Not sure about the candles but mica will be better in wax melts if you make those.

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On 2/5/2020 at 11:23 AM, Vicy said:

 I didn't realise soy was difficult! I went for it as it seemed a more natural product. Is there a better wax for beginners? 

 

I have used soy wax since I began making candles in 2009.  I started out making them in cups like you do.  Your main problem probably is your wick is too small.  I know nothing about adding mica to wax.  I use chips or liquid dye.  I much prefer the liquid.

 

As for sinkage, I leave a little wax in my pitcher. If I have sinkholes after the candles harden, I remelt  a little wax and repour to fill in the craters.  You can also use a heatgun.  Dyed soy candles sink more than undyed; at least for me they do.

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