Auntjulie Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 1 minute ago, TallTayl said: You will be fine. Just start a few simultaneous wick tests and dial in from there. It's possible. thanks TallTayl, do you think one week is long enough to cure for wick testing? I know you mentioned this hardens over time? my wax comes in tomorrow and i think maybe i will make a few simultaneous wick tests with my 3 christmas fragrances and dyes and then a few more with no fragrances and dyes, maybe I'll get lucky 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 6 minutes ago, Auntjulie said: thanks TallTayl, do you think one week is long enough to cure for wick testing? I know you mentioned this hardens over time? my wax comes in tomorrow and i think maybe i will make a few simultaneous wick tests with my 3 christmas fragrances and dyes and then a few more with no fragrances and dyes, maybe I'll get lucky 🙂 That's a rather philosophical debate around here. Suppliers and some members say 3 days. Most of us notice major differences with time. If you have enough jars, make at least one extra to test at 3 days and again at a week. hang on to one and burn in a month. this will be a nice base line to learn from. I can say for certain if you are underwicked at a week, that won't change. throw will usually improve over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightLight Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 Agree with TT about making extra. Me I would do wax and fragrance and leave out dyes, that’s throwing another thing into the works. if you pour without wick, you can switch out the wicks to try different types, and different sizes. Do you have to do color? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auntjulie Posted October 16, 2019 Author Share Posted October 16, 2019 2 hours ago, NightLight said: Agree with TT about making extra. Me I would do wax and fragrance and leave out dyes, that’s throwing another thing into the works. if you pour without wick, you can switch out the wicks to try different types, and different sizes. Do you have to do color? Yes thank you nightlight that is something I have learned 🤣 I heat gun the tops wait and pull out wicks with pliers and insert another wick🤣 but I usually use the colors I am going to go with because my jars are clear and I love color I try and test my white colors first “white chocolate clean cotton odor eliminator etc” when I have time But I am a nervous wreck trying to nail down enough to sell nov 23😩 I am learning also to work on wet spots etc later it’s more important to get that hot throw for me now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auntjulie Posted October 17, 2019 Author Share Posted October 17, 2019 On 10/11/2019 at 5:31 PM, NightLight said: First test C3 without coconut, then test with coconut. You have to see how C3 burns first. I like htp wicks with C3. Similar to Cd wicks. with tins I like to go down a wick from a glass jar because of the tin material and also the depth of the tin. You don’t need a super edge to edge clean burn on a tin as the tin hides remainder, it will usually clear up after half way if that makes sense. Have you worked with plain C3 first? Nitelight - I took your advice and TallTayl - I made tins ( 2 of each frag) with the new C3 no color I will wait 3 days and test one set then one week and test the other set, My question is do you think i should be ok with using the winning wicks for these tins and bump up one for my glasses? (12 oz rocks glass 3" diam)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightLight Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 No guarantee but I have found that tins go down one size from glass. Give it a go! C3 gets very hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 Gosh it is impossible to say without a Proper test. In glass I would not skip testing because the material and dimensions are so wildly different. i wick down for glass, especiall if taller than wide since the convection really amps up as it burns deeper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auntjulie Posted October 18, 2019 Author Share Posted October 18, 2019 22 hours ago, TallTayl said: Gosh it is impossible to say without a Proper test. In glass I would not skip testing because the material and dimensions are so wildly different. i wick down for glass, especiall if taller than wide since the convection really amps up as it burns deeper. Oh no now I’m Frantic again. I just made a lot of the tins x 2 and went back and made the glasses too. I was thinking one size bigger too. Because the jar is 1/4 “ wider and 2 inches taller than the tin I thought it needed to be bigger to handle more for longer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightLight Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 Don’t despair. Just test see how it goes. You can’t rush it. If it’s a fail. Dig out the wax, if you glues the wicks, and redo. Everyone has different methods and different wax blends and wicks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auntjulie Posted October 18, 2019 Author Share Posted October 18, 2019 11 minutes ago, NightLight said: Don’t despair. Just test see how it goes. You can’t rush it. If it’s a fail. Dig out the wax, if you glues the wicks, and redo. Everyone has different methods and different wax blends and wicks! Thank you yes I am afraid right now I need to rush to have something to sell for nov 23rd but I know I need to test because I certainly don’t want my first sales to be dangerous or not burn at all. How did I get myself into this? Oh yeah it’s the dang wax changing every time I buy something 😩 at least I have some from last box of cb adv so I’m testing with what worked for that to start with crossing my fingers I’ll get lucky 🙏🏼 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 I swear the manufacturers do it to sell more wax to us chumps. keep at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auntjulie Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 42 minutes ago, TallTayl said: I swear the manufacturers do it to sell more wax to use chumps. keep at it. Yeah or get us to buy it by the pallet😡 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auntjulie Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 On 10/15/2019 at 5:22 PM, TallTayl said: That's a rather philosophical debate around here. Suppliers and some members say 3 days. Most of us notice major differences with time. If you have enough jars, make at least one extra to test at 3 days and again at a week. hang on to one and burn in a month. this will be a nice base line to learn from. I can say for certain if you are underwicked at a week, that won't change. throw will usually improve over time. so the results of my one week test - 3 different fragrances - c3 with 1 oz coco2 per lb - (1)8 oz tin, (1)12 oz whiskey glass each - every one of them - no matter the wick - cd18,20 - cdn16,18 and htp126,1212 everyone of them burned too high, melt pool eventually widened but looked too deep, and most mushroomed, all had tiny beads of sweating when lit can I assume none of these wicks will work? or do I need cure longer? or do I have too much coco and/or fragrance? I am literally at my wits end and may have to cancel my show on the 23rd even though i wont get my money back 😞 any suggestions please? ps: the throw both hot and cold were great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 Take a deep breath. I would pull those and replace with cd12 or cd14. Let cool 5 or so hours and relight. mushrooms like that and deep pools mean overwicked. Not the end of the world you’ve got this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auntjulie Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 47 minutes ago, TallTayl said: Take a deep breath. I would pull those and replace with cd12 or cd14. Let cool 5 or so hours and relight. mushrooms like that and deep pools mean overwicked. Not the end of the world you’ve got this. Omg thank you thank you for responding! I’m ready to hit the liquor cabinet 🙃 I went hog wild with too many fo and wick combos I will only deal with 3 for now and pray later today that works better. I really like the cd they seem to have worked the best in my other candles. Just concerned if they were too hot or if this wax needs longer cure wish I could predict the future 😩 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 3 is good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auntjulie Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 4 minutes ago, TallTayl said: 3 is good I want you to know how grateful I am for all your expertise and help☺️ I would be crying and have given up today. Thank you so much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 We are all in this together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auntjulie Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 6 minutes ago, TallTayl said: We are all in this together. Yes. I love this forum !! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patricia Sanderson Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 Hi folks, I'm an avid reader on here and thought to join the c3 debate. I've been testing c3 for a good while now and my problem is how it looks after it's been burning. I'm talking about the aesthetics of it post burn when it's hardened again. My scent throw is great but they look so ugly, lumpy, bubbles everywhere and discolored towards the last third. I'm just wondering what you all think about it, can I add anything to help it keep it's smoothness. When i compare it to a paraffin candle I have at home, mine look so battered. I can imagine this being noticed by a customer. Any thoughts? Many thanks, Patricia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 17 minutes ago, Patricia Sanderson said: Hi folks, I'm an avid reader on here and thought to join the c3 debate. I've been testing c3 for a good while now and my problem is how it looks after it's been burning. I'm talking about the aesthetics of it post burn when it's hardened again. My scent throw is great but they look so ugly, lumpy, bubbles everywhere and discolored towards the last third. I'm just wondering what you all think about it, can I add anything to help it keep it's smoothness. When i compare it to a paraffin candle I have at home, mine look so battered. I can imagine this being noticed by a customer. Any thoughts? Many thanks, Patricia Welcome to soy. Many use paraffin to smooth out the ugly. Some are trying to use coconut oils and coconut wax, but it really can’t chemically compare or compete with a basic paraffin wax. discolored wax , in my case, was from overwicking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightLight Posted October 31, 2019 Share Posted October 31, 2019 You have to let the candles sit at least a day or two. Wax has to settle or it will be to difficult to test properly. make sure your wicks are trimmed to proper height. Test one wick series at a time. Test one container and get it nailed. Start with one fragrance. CDs work well in the wax. Do a burn test for two three hours you will be able to tell which wick is okay. When you switch out wicks. make sure wax is level before trying another wick. You can test three containers, but do follow steps. Harden wax, test with one wick series. Level wax, test another wick. Do burn test for at least two three hours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patricia Sanderson Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 On 10/31/2019 at 12:18 PM, TallTayl said: Welcome to soy. Many use paraffin to smooth out the ugly. Some are trying to use coconut oils and coconut wax, but it really can’t chemically compare or compete with a basic paraffin wax. discolored wax , in my case, was from overwicking. Many thanks for your reply. Yes I think you are right, it will never look like a paraffin candle. Although sometimes I buy a natural soy candle from the shops and they seem to burn really well and re-set smoothly. Could it be 464? I live in Australia, i'm talking about Ecoya soy candles if anyone knows them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary in Canada Posted December 1, 2019 Share Posted December 1, 2019 On 10/19/2019 at 2:56 PM, Auntjulie said: I am literally at my wits end and may have to cancel my show on the 23rd even though i wont get my money back 😞 any suggestions please? Im curious, as I'm sure others are too....how did your show go on the 23rd...or did it not go?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auntjulie Posted December 2, 2019 Author Share Posted December 2, 2019 10 hours ago, Gary in Canada said: Im curious, as I'm sure others are too....how did your show go on the 23rd...or did it not go?? Thank you for asking! It went pretty well, in as I learned a LOT😉 I made tiny 2oz tins with the C3 wax and only 1 fragrance in the 8 oz tin that I tested all other candles were with my CBadvanced wax. But I didn’t sell many candles 🙁 I sold a few candle melts and warmers though. I think I priced the candles too high? All in all I made enough to pay for the booth but I had fun after all the hard work and I know what I would do differently now😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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