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I've got CWS, the candle-wicking shanks, lost my mojo......


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So, it appears I am suffering from an episode of CWS.  For those of you who are not familiar with the term (because I just made it up), that means Can't Wick Sh**.  Also known as The Candle-wicking Shanks (golf reference).  I have lost all my candle-making mojo. 

I have this container.  Actually, I have a ton of them because I thought they were gonna be the next big thing for me.  Ha.  I can't wick it.  Been trying for MONTHS. 

It's a tumbler with a 3 1/4" diameter at the top that tapers to a 2 3/4" diameter at the bottom.  I've tried everything.  Every.stinking.thing.  I'm using 6006.  Please gimme some wick suggestions.  

 

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Yes, tried CD 14-20 and & HTP 93-105.  What happens is I get too much hangup and when it starts to melt down, which is near the end, the flames want to drown.  If I go with a wick that's big enough to handle that, it's just too big.   If I stick with a smaller wick to get an appropriate sized flame, it either drowns or won't come close to cleaning the jar.  I did not try 1212, but I will.  Nothing to lose at this point.  Thanks.  

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@bfroberts   LX wicks?  I do find they provide a larger melt pool when I need it without getting too hot down the jar.  Maybe an lx 18 or 20 for that vessel? 
  They're not my 1st choice for wicks but sometimes they are the only thing that works...

Edited by pughaus
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1 hour ago, pughaus said:

@bfroberts   LX wicks?  I do find they provide a larger melt pool when I need it without getting too hot down the jar.  Maybe an lx 18 or 20 for that vessel? 
  They're not my 1st choice for wicks but sometimes they are the only thing that works...

Unfortunately, no luck there either.  LX 18 - 20 are leaving way too much hangup at the top and drowning at the bottom.  LX 22 does OK at the top, but it's too hot and too ugly in the bottom half.  Big mushrooms too.  I'm at such a loss with this jar.

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8 hours ago, Laura C said:

I love the glass. Just some ideas, try some wide wicks? Wood, cottonwood or ribbon wicks. Would two small double wicks get too hot at the bottom?

Of those 3, I've only tried wood.  I only have the 2 ply Unity wood wicks, and medium wasn't big enough but large was too big so I gave up on that pretty quickly.  Have you tried ribbon and/or cottonwood wicks, Laura?  If so, how easy are they for the customer to trim?  

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37 minutes ago, bfroberts said:

Of those 3, I've only tried wood.  I only have the 2 ply Unity wood wicks, and medium wasn't big enough but large was too big so I gave up on that pretty quickly.  Have you tried ribbon and/or cottonwood wicks, Laura?  If so, how easy are they for the customer to trim?  

 

I don't sell candles yet, it's just a hobby right now. Yes, I've tested the ribbon and cottonwood wicks and overall I like them, was mainly using coconut 83 and soy I believe. I don't remember the specifics, it's been a long time since I've made and burned those candles. The cottonwood is different and takes some getting use to because when you light the wick it frays or fans out and curls. It looks like the fingers on a hand with the finger tips curling down. If I remember correctly, I would trim the wick a little taller than 1/4" due to the ends curling.

Actually, this picture on Atkins & Pearce's website looks like one of their cottonwood wicks but doesn't show it from the angle I'm talking about. http://www.atkinsandpearce.com/

I've been buying ribbon wicks from North Wood Candle Supply https://www.northwoodcandlesupply.com/collections/candle-wicks/products/ribbon-wick-sample-pack

 

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@bfroberts I'm glad you brought up wicking, I need to get back to making candles and wick testing. I want to start from scratch with my testing. I have more knowledge now and I'm in a better frame of mind, LOL. I've been making melts lately. I've been looking up wick posts and here's some related to cottonwood and ribbon wicks if you or anyone is interested.

 

https://www.craftserver.com/topic/110339-ribbon-wicks/

https://www.craftserver.com/topic/107459-helix-and-cottonwood-wicks-from-ap/?tab=comments#comment-1007273

https://www.craftserver.com/topic/113334-cottonwood-braided-wicks-northwood-candle-supply/?tab=comments#comment-1072575

https://www.craftserver.com/topic/114659-coconut-wax-wicks-sigh/?tab=comments#comment-1085235

 

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Here’s a thought.

 

Two pour candle.

Bottom 6006 plus percentage of soy or stearic

Top 6006

You want the bottom to not burn as fast with wick for top, so harden up lower with with above.

then pour top layer just 6006.

 

It could be done I think, but pain to test!

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Wood, this type https://www.northwoodcandlesupply.com/collections/candle-wicks/products/sample-pack-dual-wood-wick

 

Not the Premiums, they're too thick for 6006. I couldn't get a regular wick to burn worth a crap in anything bigger than a 8oz JJ with 6006 (as you already know lol), the wood is all I could use. Plus it's a lot easier testing wood you get a FMP quicker, not gambling on waiting for 2 or 3 burns hoping you'll get one in bigger vessels.

 

And if you wanted to get really technical you could cut the wick thinner towards the bottom so it doesn't burn as hot. Can't do that with a regular wick!

Edited by ErronB
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4 hours ago, Sarah S said:

@bfroberts, not to throw a giant wrench in the whole business, but have you considered a different wax for that container? I have one jar that gets downright ugly with CBL 125, but has the most beautiful burn ever with palm. And vice-versa. 

Great minds...
I am actually currently burning one with CBL125 & HTP 93 that looks decent on the 2nd burn.  Fingers crossed.  

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I have a few jars that even with straight sides burn like you described.

 

I have had success making either a votive or a tea light of harder to burn wax so that you can do an over pour and everything looks uniform if your jars are clear. This method doubles to hold floppy flat works nice and straight for the whole burn on soft waxes

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  • 7 months later...

@TallTayl  I have had success making either a votive or a tea light of harder to burn wax so that you can do an over pour and everything looks uniform if your jars are clear. This method doubles to hold floppy flat works nice and straight for the whole burn on soft waxes

 

I don't understand, please further explain.  If you do an over pour of harder wax wouldn't that effect only the top of the candle?  How would it keep a floppy wick straight on the whole burn?  Thanks.

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27 minutes ago, Terry said:

@TallTayl  I have had success making either a votive or a tea light of harder to burn wax so that you can do an over pour and everything looks uniform if your jars are clear. This method doubles to hold floppy flat works nice and straight for the whole burn on soft waxes

 

I don't understand, please further explain.  If you do an over pour of harder wax wouldn't that effect only the top of the candle?  How would it keep a floppy wick straight on the whole burn?  Thanks.

In soft waxes the wick weight tips the wick the entire length of the wick. The weakest point is usually at the top of the wick tab.  Supporting more of that wick helps it stay more upright from the top. 

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