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angelcandles

Premier wicks in 4630?

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I'm about to order a sample pack of CD wicks from Flaming Candle to try and finally find a wick for my 4630 wax in a straight tumbler jar (3 inches). LX and HTP and Zinc sample packs were all failures for me (sooting, every one of them). I am thinking about getting the Premier wick sample pack too but am not sure how they work in a 4630. Anyone have any experience? 


Also, I've heard paper core wicks work well with 4630, but I can't seem to find a sample pack that includes a wide variety of sizes.

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Premiers were a big fat no to me in 4630, or anything really other than soy.  Zinc, LX, HTP, paper core and RRD are the best of the lot for 4630 IMHO.

Are you still testing without FO?

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12 minutes ago, bfroberts said:

Premiers were a big fat no to me in 4630, or anything really other than soy.  Zinc, LX, HTP, paper core and RRD are the best of the lot for 4630 IMHO.

Are you still testing without FO?

Yes I am. And I will say that one Zinc wick looked good to me (44-32). This wick gave me my best melting pool but when I tried a second burn, the sooting was there. I think I will start off with the CD sample pack (they've been recommended to me multiple times). If those don't work, I will branch out to paper core and RRD, maybe my best best is to find wicks in RRD and paper core equivalent in size to the 44-32.

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When are you seeing the soot?  Is it puffs of smoke coming off the wick or soot around the jar? 

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1 hour ago, bfroberts said:

When are you seeing the soot?  Is it puffs of smoke coming off the wick or soot around the jar? 

Smoking wick, large flame. Of course there were some (smaller) sizes of HTPs, Zincs, and LXs that did not soot, but I wasn't satisfied with my melt pools (seemed too small, no FMP after 4 hours of being lit). Also, weak flames on second burns was a common occurrence with the smaller wicks.

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I find those kinds of jars more difficult to wick than a jar with shoulders such as a mason jar, straight sided jar, etc.  IME, it is impossible to get a FMP in the early burns without having a large flame, scorching hot jar and soot in the latter burns.  Without shoulders to hold in the heat, that pretty FMP just does not happen early.  The wick series doesn't matter as much as you might think.  The results are the same pretty much across the board.  If it's big enough to get a FMP early, it's too big later and all you're gonna get is an ugly, messy, unsafe burn.  Zinc 51 - 60 is what I use for 4630 in status jars, which are basically the same diameter.

 

Because you were having so much trouble with soot, I decided to burn a 4630 candle with no FO.  It does have one drop of dye, but I don't think that makes much difference.  It is a square mason jar, wicked with LX 18 and I have had no soot at all.  It has burned perfectly clean, and despite my efforts, I have not been able to coax it to produce even a smidgen of soot. 

Have you tested larger zincs....51z-60z?  Have you tested LX 18-20? That should be about where you land when you add in FO.  But you will have to be content without that FMP in the early burns.  I just don't think it's gonna happen in that jar, not with the clean burn you want.  It is easier (for me, at least) to balance that FMP early AND a clean, safe burn in other jar types.

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22 minutes ago, bfroberts said:

I find those kinds of jars more difficult to wick than a jar with shoulders such as a mason jar, straight sided jar, etc.  IME, it is impossible to get a FMP in the early burns without having a large flame, scorching hot jar and soot in the latter burns.  Without shoulders to hold in the heat, that pretty FMP just does not happen early.  The wick series doesn't matter as much as you might think.  The results are the same pretty much across the board.  If it's big enough to get a FMP early, it's too big later and all you're gonna get is an ugly, messy, unsafe burn.  Zinc 51 - 60 is what I use for 4630 in status jars, which are basically the same diameter.

 

Because you were having so much trouble with soot, I decided to burn a 4630 candle with no FO.  It does have one drop of dye, but I don't think that makes much difference.  It is a square mason jar, wicked with LX 18 and I have had no soot at all.  It has burned perfectly clean, and despite my efforts, I have not been able to coax it to produce even a smidgen of soot. 

Have you tested larger zincs....51z-60z?  Have you tested LX 18-20? That should be about where you land when you add in FO.  But you will have to be content without that FMP in the early burns.  I just don't think it's gonna happen in that jar, not with the clean burn you want.  It is easier (for me, at least) to balance that FMP early AND a clean, safe burn in other jar types.

Wow, it must be the jar making the difference then with the LX 18. I can't imagine what other major variable there could be. I have some apothecary jars, maybe I'll give them a shot with my new CDs (just ordered the sample pack) as well as my tumblers and compare results. I'll  keep in mind that I'm not looking for an FMP in the early burns. Just wondering, when do you categorize a candle as "tunneling" and not "well, maybe it just needs to burn a little more to melt down the wax on the edges of the candle"? 

 

I have tested LX 18-20, my notes say there was soot on the first burn. I have not tested 51z-60z, I have a 51z-32z, I'll move to the CDs if there's not a good result.

Edited by angelcandles

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The internet has gotten "tunneling" all wrong (and IDK if I can properly describe it).  If a candle is tunneling, it actually creates a tunnel.  If there is a thin shell of wax left on the container that weeps down and corrects itself before the candle extinguishes, no tunnel is there.  So, not tunneling.  Just hangup.  For some reason, everyone all of a sudden thinks tunneling happens if a candle doesn't reach a FMP.  Which is odd to me, because the candles I buy off the store shelves rarely reach a FMP early on. Unless it's a multi-wicked candle, but that's a different beast anyway.  Once you've made a few like that and see the hangup eventually correct itself, you'll be able to tell pretty early on if you've got tunneling or just hang-up.


Based on the unscented candle I'm burning w/LX18, I can only assume you got soot w/your burn with LX18 because it was struggling.  Mine is textbook perfect in this mason jar, and I've had the fan on, I've blown on it, partially covered the jar, all kinds of stuff and I can't make it soot to save my life.  You will definitely need at least a couple sizes bigger in your unscented tumbler.

 

 

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Cd wicks burn much like htp wicks. Lx wicks to me burn very clean and tidy. Try testers with other jars and compare. Or adjust the wax, add some soy and clean up The paraffin.

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@angelcandles This video may help you see how hang up burns down and why you don't want an edge to edge MP in your early burns.  They're testing with soy but the same principles apply.

 

 

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2 hours ago, bfroberts said:

The internet has gotten "tunneling" all wrong (and IDK if I can properly describe it).  If a candle is tunneling, it actually creates a tunnel.  If there is a thin shell of wax left on the container that weeps down and corrects itself before the candle extinguishes, no tunnel is there.  So, not tunneling.  Just hangup.  For some reason, everyone all of a sudden thinks tunneling happens if a candle doesn't reach a FMP.  Which is odd to me, because the candles I buy off the store shelves rarely reach a FMP early on. Unless it's a multi-wicked candle, but that's a different beast anyway.  Once you've made a few like that and see the hangup eventually correct itself, you'll be able to tell pretty early on if you've got tunneling or just hang-up.


Based on the unscented candle I'm burning w/LX18, I can only assume you got soot w/your burn with LX18 because it was struggling.  Mine is textbook perfect in this mason jar, and I've had the fan on, I've blown on it, partially covered the jar, all kinds of stuff and I can't make it soot to save my life.  You will definitely need at least a couple sizes bigger in your unscented tumbler.

 

 

Yes, sounds like I got it wrong. I will retest with the few wicks I have, see if anything pulls through now that I know the difference between tunneling and hang up. So many wicks/candles I've vetoed because I thought they were tunneling...well, maybe it was just hang up! I agree, I have a single wick Ikea candle that has hang up. My multiple wicked Bed Bath & Beyond candles don't have hang up, I will keep that in mind.

 

I am going to retest with my LXs (if I have any left) and see if I can get a good burn. 

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1 hour ago, NightLight said:

Cd wicks burn much like htp wicks. Lx wicks to me burn very clean and tidy. Try testers with other jars and compare. Or adjust the wax, add some soy and clean up The paraffin.

Aah add soy! I think it's best for now to eliminate the variables and see if I can get a good burn either in my tumbler jars or my apothecaries. I may just need a jar adjustment. Will make all the tests I can with the few wicks I have left in both my jars to compare. I have ordered the CD sample pack, I hope I have enough LXs left to test with now, you have really tempted me to go for them.

Edited by angelcandles

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47 minutes ago, pughaus said:

@angelcandles This video may help you see how hang up burns down and why you don't want an edge to edge MP in your early burns.  They're testing with soy but the same principles apply.

 

 

This is a long video! I will watch all I can. Thank you.

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Funny I liked the premier wicks best in 4630, followed by htp and CDs. The lx were okay but liked the burn better with the premiers plus you can really fine tune the wick there are so many sizes.

 

Bought some 6006 to play with and the premiers were a huge fail for me. 

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