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Jar adhesion/wet spots


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Hello all.... 

I’m oh soooo super new to candle making and I think I’m going to like it :) . I poured some candles on Saturday using 464, I know I need to let them cute before I begin to test them. I just want to know is this what is meant by jar adhesion / wet spots. I think my tops came out pretty good for my first time making candles. 

 

Thanks for your input

 

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Edited by Sheree00
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Hello and welcome Sheree...

You did a perfect awesome job in making that candle.   Doesn't come any better than what you did!

So what procedure did you do when you made the candle and what scent did you do?

Awesome job!   DO let that jar sit 2 weeks curing b/4 you burn it.

Yes, that is a wet spot on your candle and there is not a thing you can do about it.   You have to accept it.    I wouldn't even waste one minute worrying or trying to think you can remedy that.  No one will ever say a word about it.    I use that wax and sell to shops for years now and no one has ever said one thing, so don't even worry 1 sec about it.   Great job!

 

Trappeur:thumbsup:

Edited by Trappeur
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Candles like a nice warm room to cool down in. I found you let a candle cool down over night in a chilly room you will shrink your wax and get wet spots.  Make sure you pay close attention to the temp of the wax every time you pour. Some waxes like a high temp some low for good adhesion. Also adding too much fragrance oil can ruin adhesion. Start around 6 per cent of fragrance for your wax.

What I find super handy is a digital gun thermometer - you can online cheap or go to Home Depot Lowe’s to get one - it’s a lot easier to get correct and fast readings using one of these. Some waxes are prone to wet spots. A good wax with excellent adhesion is C3but it has other quirks you have to work through. 

Read through the boards. Candle making its like trying to play at Carnegie Hall!

Practice, practice, practice.

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@Trappeur thank you!! I heated the wax to 185, added FO (Bamboo and coconut) at 160, and poured at 130. I am going to let it sit for about 7-10 days before testing. 

 

@NightLight I actually used 6% FO. The area they cooled down in overnight was a bit chilly ( the kitchen). I’m also going to invest in a digital thermometer, for some reason I think that would works best. Thanks. 

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Hi Sheree!

Good job! 

I also made a candle with bamboo and coconut. It’s a nice clean scent, I don’t get much of the coconut but everyone likes it. Trappeur is right though, you must cure a minimum of 2 weeks. I’m finding mine are even better after 1 month, I use your wax with coconut wax.🌸

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Hi and welcome! 

 

The one thing to remember as you learn chandling, even if you follow every piece of advice above to the letter you will still get wet spots.

 

As soon as that candle gets to someone else’s hands, is shipped, burns, etc. there will be wet spots.  Don’t sweat it. Make a candle that burns well, burns safely and smells nice and you’re pretty much there. 

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Trappeur, Initially I started with coconut wax from Northwoods, the candles got increasingly better with a long cure. I then began to blend 464 and Northwoods coconut was, 50/50 but still cure them longer if I can. I do not see a huge difference scent wise. Both are the same, wether blended or not. I’m just stunned how they improve 1 month out. I do use 7-9 % f.o. I prefer the blended wax, seems to solve any cratering or issues 464 has time to time. I also don’t want to be married to one wax cause what if? Maybe someone else can chime in.

 

talltayl, yes, agreed, just embrace the wet spots, save your fretting for other stuff!!!🌸

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When you look at your jars, if you see any parts with the wax has pulled away from the glass it looks like it’s wet. Wet spots are generally caused by shrinkage.

 

One way to control wet spots Is to make sure that all of the wax pulls away from the jar equally. Some container waxes specialize in this.

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17 hours ago, TallTayl said:

When you look at your jars, if you see any parts with the wax has pulled away from the glass it looks like it’s wet. Wet spots are generally caused by shrinkage.

 

One way to control wet spots Is to make sure that all of the wax pulls away from the jar equally. Some container waxes specialize in this.

 

CBL130 pulls away completely, almost like a pillar wax. Zero wet spots. The down side is, as the wax pool reaches the sides of the glass while burning, it flows down between the candle and the glass, creating an almost lava-like wet spot around the top 1/4. It's hardly any more noticeable than wet spots, but some people might be bothered by that aesthetic. 

When I mix Palm wax with CBL125, it has the same characteristic. 

 

image.jpeg.7c43243ca576116c5a97ee8786f8ea51.jpeg

 

IDK if you can see it happening there, it's less noticeable with white wax.

 

Anyway, my point was, sometimes in trying to solve one problem, another is created. I consider this kind of issue the "small stuff", and I try not to sweat it. 😁

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Sheree your candles look lovely. As others have already pointed out wet spots are a part of working with wax like soy or paraffin. Just embrace them and don't worry about them. You are going to get them no matter what you do. Instead, concentrate on making a candle that burns well, safely, and scents well. That is the ticket to a good candle.

Edited by Candybee
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  • 1 month later...

I use 464 and love it.  As everyone else said, wet spots are par for the course.  Sometimes your label can cover it.  One thing you want to watch is making sure your wicks are centered.  Its super important for an even burn.  Great job!

Edited by burnsv1
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