bktolbert Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 (edited) I'm planning on making my first hot process soap, and I'm wondering if there's any majorly wrong with this formula? 25% Mango butter 30% Shea butter 20% Moringa oil 10% Sunflower oil 5% Grapeseed oil 5% CBD (50mg in hemp oil) 2.5% Meadowfoam seed oil 2.5% Castor oil 2% (of total) Tea tree extract - antibacterial, anti-fungal .98% (of total) White kaolin clay - colorant .02% (of total) Rosemary leaf extract - antioxidant/preservative Edited March 19, 2019 by bktolbert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 Shea and mango might make that insanely brittle. Sunflower (unless high oleic) and grapeseed oil are high in linolenic acid. It could make it prone to Dos. There’s another thread today about clay causing soap to be possibly drying. What is your goal for this soap? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightLight Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 That’s a lot of hard oils and could make it hard for you to work with it in hot process. You’re using CBD in wash off product. Bye bye CBD down the drain. I would add sodium lactate, it will make your soap batter more fluid and easier to work with. And also grape seed oil will go bad fast. Sunflower oil has to be as TT said has to be high pelican or it will go bad quickly too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 33 minutes ago, NightLight said: That’s a lot of hard oils and could make it hard for you to work with it in hot process. You’re using CBD in wash off product. Bye bye CBD down the drain. I would add sodium lactate, it will make your soap batter more fluid and easier to work with. And also grape seed oil will go bad fast. Sunflower oil has to be as TT said has to be high pelican or it will go bad quickly too. I love autocorrect. High pelican is my favorite of the day. 🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bktolbert Posted March 19, 2019 Author Share Posted March 19, 2019 52 minutes ago, TallTayl said: Shea and mango might make that insanely brittle. Sunflower (unless high oleic) and grapeseed oil are high in linolenic acid. It could make it prone to Dos. There’s another thread today about clay causing soap to be possibly drying. What is your goal for this soap? I understand. Maybe I can test between shea and kokum butter. I believe kokum is harder -- trying to avoid cocoa butter because of high comedogenicity and am unaware of any other butters. https://lotioncrafter.com/products/sunflower-oil-high-oleic Think I could forgo sunflower and grapeseed and just use hemp? I want a good ol' basic white bar soap (eventually to sell in a vegan line of CBD products). I'm purposefully avoiding coconut oil because it's not agreeable with my skin. 23 minutes ago, NightLight said: That’s a lot of hard oils and could make it hard for you to work with it in hot process. You’re using CBD in wash off product. Bye bye CBD down the drain. I would add sodium lactate, it will make your soap batter more fluid and easier to work with. And also grape seed oil will go bad fast. Sunflower oil has to be as TT said has to be high pelican or it will go bad quickly too. Ah. I don't know why I forgot about CBD being washed off I ordered sodium lactate but thought I might make a batch without to see if it's a necessary item. What % would you recommend to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 Hemp is short shelf life too. How bout the holy trinity as a base formula? Olive50%, coconut (a couple fairly equal subs would be palm kernel or babassu) 25%, palm or similar 25%? Olive and rice bran are pretty interchangeable too. Castor at a low % is nice. I find 3% or less to not be so sticky, but enough to enhance the lasting lather. A little shea is lovely for creaminess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 I usually buy my soap oils from Soapers choice. They have high oleic versions ofsunflower and safflower. Sunflower in one of my blends makes it trace super fast and HOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightLight Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 Haha high pelican didn’t see that. Agree with Tall Tayl. Pk is good. I love Kokum butter myself. Hemp I believe doesn’t have super long shelf life, same with rice bran tho I love rice bran for lotion. You will have to google percentage for sodium lactate I believe Brambleberry has a calculator. It works for keeping soap fluid. Also sodium lactate is great in lotions so it won’t go to waste. you can do a a three and four ingredient soap and it will be great. Sometimes simplicity is best to work out the kinks in your soap formula. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 Specialty oils and butters are great, but seem like a waste in soap 🤷🏻♀️ Im slowly reducing oils in my shop to serious multitaskers. For lip and leave on, plus hair, I lean on jojoba. Ditched kokum, babassu, mango, etc a while ago as they didn’t do anything measurably different enough to keep stocking. Simple is good. The Soapers bell curve always rings true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 Oldie but goodie: the Soapers bell curve: https://www.craftserver.com/topic/109252-main-recipes/?do=findComment&comment=1024693 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CandleRush Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 How exciting! I was in total awe when I made my first batch. Cutting it in bars was so rewarding! Heres what I know my my soaping. Kaolin clay doesn’t add color but it is a gentle exfoliant plus improves lather so does castor oil. I use 2 tsp. of clay Per pound of oils. I’ve never had issues with it being drying to the skin but I also super fat my recipes. 2 tsp. Is such a small amount. None of my customers mentioned this in the 10years that I’ve been selling. Mango and Shea are beautiful in soap, smaller amounts though,I use one or the other. Palm kernel oil is great for a harder bar but keep the percentage lower as it is very drying to the skin. I always reserve those nice oils for stay in products like morenga, Kokum and meadowfoam. Have fun!🌸 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarah S Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 21 hours ago, TallTayl said: Specialty oils and butters are great, but seem like a waste in soap 🤷🏻♀️ Im slowly reducing oils in my shop to serious multitaskers. For lip and leave on, plus hair, I lean on jojoba. Ditched kokum, babassu, mango, etc a while ago as they didn’t do anything measurably different enough to keep stocking. Simple is good. The Soapers bell curve always rings true. I can't agree with this more. I save the luxurious oils for leave-on products. Why wash all that money and nutrients down the drain? I personally love tallow, rice bran oil, coconut oil, and a bit (tiny bit!) of cocoa butter. A great vegan option would be palm, olive, rice bran, and a bit (tiny bit!) of macadamia oil. Really simple is better with soap. I personally love kaolin clay in my soap, but I have oily skin, and I sweat at ton at my job. 20 hours ago, CandleRush said: How exciting! I was in total awe when I made my first batch. Cutting it in bars was so rewarding! Heres what I know my my soaping. Kaolin clay doesn’t add color but it is a gentle exfoliant plus improves lather so does castor oil. I use 2 tsp. of clay Per pound of oils. I’ve never had issues with it being drying to the skin but I also super fat my recipes. 2 tsp. Is such a small amount. None of my customers mentioned this in the 10years that I’ve been selling. Mango and Shea are beautiful in soap, smaller amounts though,I use one or the other. Palm kernel oil is great for a harder bar but keep the percentage lower as it is very drying to the skin. I always reserve those nice oils for stay in products like morenga, Kokum and meadowfoam. Have fun!🌸 Yes! I love the exotic butters in my lotion formulas, so luxurious! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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