Forrest Posted December 21, 2018 Share Posted December 21, 2018 I’m working with 8oz tins these days, having more or less mastered my tureens. OK mastered is probably too strong a word, but I can wick them without wanting to smash them into little pieces when I burn them. I’m finding that the need to wick up or down with various FOs is much more pronounced with tins. My question is, how do I know when my wicking is right. My current rule of thumb is the smallest wick that melts all the wax in the tin. Does that seem right? As I’m starting to work on next year’s Christmas candles I really want to get the wicking right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arch Rock Posted December 23, 2018 Share Posted December 23, 2018 Since everyone else is wrapping presents and baking cookies, I'll chime in here Forrest. I think the same approach we've all adopted for our jars applies to tins too - don't expect a FMP on the first burn and yet you need a nice flame height with a good consumption rate. Maybe your NASA buddies could help figure this out: When I tested tins, I was always horrified to see how much the hot sides of the tin sped up burn rate. Clearly, metal conducts heat faster than glass and I almost always wicked down even though the container opening on my 16 oz. tins was larger than my 16 oz. jars. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abbeycatherine Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 On 12/23/2018 at 9:39 AM, Arch Rock said: Since everyone else is wrapping presents and baking cookies, I'll chime in here Forrest. I think the same approach we've all adopted for our jars applies to tins too - don't expect a FMP on the first burn and yet you need a nice flame height with a good consumption rate. Maybe your NASA buddies could help figure this out: When I tested tins, I was always horrified to see how much the hot sides of the tin sped up burn rate. Clearly, metal conducts heat faster than glass and I almost always wicked down even though the container opening on my 16 oz. tins was larger than my 16 oz. jars. That is really good to know! Makes sense about the metal conducting heat, so glad i read this before blindly buying tins the same size as my glass jars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 1 hour ago, Abbeycatherine said: That is really good to know! Makes sense about the metal conducting heat, so glad i read this before blindly buying tins the same size as my glass jars! I'm testing 8oz tins right now with various FOs and have been surprised at the differences in how they burn, even ones that don't need a different wick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbara AL Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 Do you mind sharing what wax and wicks you are testing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 18 hours ago, Barbara AL said: Do you mind sharing what wax and wicks you are testing? Check out my test results in the Wax & Wick section. Last week I poured 8oz tins with HTP 93, HTP 104, LX 18, and Zinc 51. I poured the zinc to compare the results to the test I ran during the hot summer months. I'll be posting the results when I burn those, I may cut a couple of days off the two week cure because They won't let me go to work and sitting around here waiting for candles to cure is difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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