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Holes Around The Wick Problem Again!


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I'm getting very frustrated by all this candle stuff. I was using IGI 4627 Comfort Blend. I tried it because all the reviews I read gave it an overall 5 Star rating but also said it was too hard to use. "Too Messy", "not packaged properly", blah, blah, etc. I bought it and found it was very easy to work with, you just cut it while the wax is cold. But that's not my complaint. It turned out beautifully. The instructions I read said to not accelerate the cooling. So, I didn't. I left it where it was to cool and left it. I even heated the jars in the oven for the first time. The temperature in the room was 77 F. THREE DIFFERENT SOURCES all gave the exact same pouring temperature range. One of those was the manufacturer!

Candle Science, Candlewic, and IGI all said the pouring range was 175-185. I did that exactly and came back later only to find holes around the wicks again. 

 

I've been told that the hole around the wick means I'm pouring too hot. Or is it too cold? It doesn't matter! Why do I say that? Someone just please explain one thing for me. If I'm pouring in the recommended range, then how can I be pouring EITHER too hot OR too cold? I'm sick of this.  

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It really depends on the wax and technique. You can pour some waxes hot and leave them to cool slowly. Other waxes need to be poured cool and hit/not hit with a fan. Then again, some waxes can handle being poured hot and rapidly cooled. There's no universal guideline for pouring temps and rate of cooling because each wax is going to be different. Manufacturer/supplier recommendations are... iffy, in my experience. They're rarely updated and no one really knows what conditions were present when they came up with those numbers. In short, if you're pouring too hot or too cold, yet remaining within the recommended range, then the recommended range may be flawed or not suitable for your set of conditions.

 

Wasn't sure if this was straight paraffin or a parasoy so I took a peek at Candlewic's page. The listed pouring temp is 145-150F, which is what I was going to suggest. If 170F+ is causing problems, try that range (if you haven't already).

 

 

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1 hour ago, Kerven said:

Wasn't sure if this was straight paraffin or a parasoy so I took a peek at Candlewic's page. The listed pouring temp is 145-150F, which is what I was going to suggest. If 170F+ is causing problems, try that range (if you haven't already).

 

1 hour ago, Quentin said:

I was using IGI 4627 Comfort Blend.

 

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Pouring temp and rate of cooling are related. The change of weather has caused quite a few changes to people’s candles from the chatter on groups. Cooling too fast creates the cavities. The outer parts of the candle cool and solidify before the middle, which causes the center of the candle to contract the only way it can, by splitting. The center of the candle sucks air down the wick which is the easiest path, boom cavities around the wick and often sunken tops. 

 

The lab where the wax was made and tested likely has controlled conditions, and very limited container types to test. The container material makes a difference. Thin tins or libbey type glass cools more quickly than heavy glass and ceramic. Heating glass helps, but still allows ambient temps in the room to accelerate the cool. When I soak my ceramic containers in hot water as the wax melts those candles turn out darn near perfect every time with no other effort.

 

You could try creating a little warming chamber to cool candles. I used several stone floor tiles heated in hot sink water as a heat sink under a plastic bin. The candles sit on the warm tiles under the lid of the overturned bin to cool. It really helped. Towels over the bin helped more. If that works, then you could scale up with a heated countertop, such as Christmas lights under a board or a seed starting mat. 

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Reading this gave me an idea. I made five candles in jars yesterday. The first two were different FOs and the last three were the same. After they were poured I put them back in the box they came in. The first two developed holes, but not the last three. I think that if I had taken a couple of extra jars and filled them with hot water that would have done the trick. So next time I’m going to get a box that will hold a couple of jars more than the number of candles I’m making and try this. Of course I could just stick with tureens, I never have this problem with tureens.

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When I started with soy I had the worse time with lumpy, bumpy, ugly tops and wet spots. Tried the cardboard box method and it worked surprisingly well. Just flip a box over the candles and leave it there while they cool overnight. I don't know why or how it works but it does (most of the time).

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1st let me say that I do not use soy wax.......only paraffin.    One day, I  poured three containers at the same time........one of them ended up with a tremendous hole around the wick.  ok....same wax, same temp,  exact same pouring time,  etc, etc.....is there an explanation for this???  Maybe I poured too fast into that one jar....who knows>>> I'm not going to stress out over what  caused one single jar to go weird on me..........just hit it with the heat gun and chock it up to the candle Gods....lol

Know, If I were pouring to sell, then I might take a closer look at the situation if I had multiple jars go weird on me but since I don't sell, I'm not going to get excited.......afterall, that is what God made heat guns for.

Like I'm really a lot of help...huh??????

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Quentin, when you say "holes", do you mean cratering?  This most likely could mean that you're not using a one-pour wax.  My paraffin-based blend requires a first pour and then a top-off at a higher temp to adhere the first pour to the few ounces needed to create a smooth finish and fill in the crater.  So my wax is considered a two-pour.

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17 hours ago, *Dee* said:

I used to get homes if I poured too quickly so that could also be an issue. 

Yes, that could be the problem. I tend to rush. I've been trying to concentrate on pouring slowly. Thanks

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4 hours ago, Arch Rock said:

Quentin, when you say "holes", do you mean cratering?  This most likely could mean that you're not using a one-pour wax.  My paraffin-based blend requires a first pour and then a top-off at a higher temp to adhere the first pour to the few ounces needed to create a smooth finish and fill in the crater.  So my wax is considered a two-pour.

Hmm. Cratering is probably the word I should be using.  This last episode happened when I was using IGI 4627 Comfort Blend. The manufacturer's product info sheet says it is a "one pour" (their words) wax. Well, well. I just noticed something. I'm glad you came along @Arch RockLooking down their sheet, it also says "Good single pour properties under optimal conditions...".  Now that sounds a little strange to me. Maybe it's not a true one-pour wax? Are single pour and one pour two different things? I wonder what they mean when they say "optimal conditions". 

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4 hours ago, ScentedPleasurez said:

4627 is a one pour wax and if u pour at the correct temp there is no issues. You do not have to warm containers put boxes or none of that mess with this wax. 

:laugh2:I love the way you worded that! I really don't want to add cardboard boxes to the process :faint: As far as pouring at the correct temp, I promise I was right in the range given by two different sellers and the manufacturer. I was watching it like a hawk. I'd be willing to take a polygraph test. :lol: 

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On 10/28/2018 at 10:46 PM, Quentin said:

Candle Science, Candlewic, and IGI all said the pouring range was 175-185. I did that exactly and came back later only to find holes around the wicks again. 

Perhaps you are not comprehending what you read because this is what you said in your original post. If you go to candlewic site and read it does not say that's the pour temp SO your holes are in fact coming from pouring way to hot. 

 

On 10/28/2018 at 11:09 PM, Kerven said:

Wasn't sure if this was straight paraffin or a parasoy so I took a peek at Candlewic's page. The listed pouring temp is 145-150F, which is what I was going to suggest. If 170F+ is causing problems, try that range (if you haven't already).

@Kerven even pointed it out to you.

 

This is a true 1 pour. I have worked with this wax for numerous years. You do not have to do all this extra. If you pour at the correct temp you will get an amazing candle every single time. 

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1 minute ago, ScentedPleasurez said:

Perhaps you are not comprehending what you read because this is what you said in your original post. If you go to candlewic site and read it does not say that's the pour temp SO your holes are in fact coming from pouring way to hot. 

 

@Kerven even pointed it out to you.

 

This is a true 1 pour. I have worked with this wax for numerous years. You do not have to do all this extra. If you pour at the correct temp you will get an amazing candle every single time. 

OK. I'll go back and check again. If I'm wrong, I'll come back here and admit to it.

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16 minutes ago, Quentin said:

OK. I'll go back and check again. If I'm wrong, I'll come back here and admit to it.

I was wrong about what Candlewic said. Yes @ScentedPleasurez I just saw the same thing you just clipped and posted from the Candlewic site. I said I would be back and report if I was wrong. Here I am. Looking back at my notes, it was Candlescience that listed the pour temp as 180F (+or- 5 degrees). I have the sheet I printed from the CS site here beside me. I also have the IGI sheet for 4627 Comfort Blend beside me on the desk. It gives the pouring temperature as 175-185F. You're right that @Kerven did point that out to me and I truly apologize to him for not paying better attention to what he was trying to tell me. I now need to determine if Candlewic has the wrong information listed or whether the manufacturer and Candlescience have it wrong. We are very fortunate to have people on this forum with your experience to help clear up issues like this, and to help out beginners like me with medically diagnosed cognitive handicaps. I'll get out of the way now.

 

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Would still take recommended pour temps with a bit of skepticism. We already know that weather, humidity, drafts, etc. can impact the pour. While the suggested pour temps may work under some conditions they're not sure-fire. There's a certain amount of trial and error to find what works for your particular set of variables. Otherwise, it would be too easy, and nothing is ever that easy (tongue in cheek).

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11 minutes ago, Kerven said:

Would still take recommended pour temps with a bit of skepticism. We already know that weather, humidity, drafts, etc. can impact the pour. While the suggested pour temps may work under some conditions they're not sure-fire. There's a certain amount of trial and error to find what works for your particular set of variables. Otherwise, it would be too easy, and nothing is ever that easy (tongue in cheek).

Thank you. :)

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53 minutes ago, Quentin said:

I now need to determine if Candlewic has the wrong information listed or whether the manufacturer and Candlescience have it wrong

Why do u need to determine that? Adjust your pour temp and try again. You are making things harder than they are. You are being given your answer and you now have to determine something else. 

Nobody helped me I tested and tested but in all my testing I never had holes. 

 

Candle making isn't for everyone that's for sure. I seen someone (not here)calculating her costs and had nearly 7$ for her wax on a 7 oz candle. Kinda makes u wonder about her Candle making if her math isn't right for costs😂

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15 hours ago, ScentedPleasurez said:

I have worked with this wax for numerous years. You do not have to do all this extra. If you pour at the correct temp you will get an amazing candle every single time. 

At what temperature do you pour IGI 4627 Comfort Blend? That's the temperature I want to try. Do you use the 145-150 range? Thanks in advance.;)

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Those very specific terms of “optimal conditions” are important. Optimal conditions can include ambient temperature and humidity as kerven already noted, and you witnessed during warmer months. 

 

 the container size and material are also factors when defining optimal conditions. A tin will cool very quickly allowing for cavities to form as soon as the top skins over. Very heavy glass vessels may or may not develop cavities, it all depends on the “rate” of cooling.

 

people can scoff all they want. Variables matter. You’re right to question @Quentin

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As someone who makes candles in two different locations that differ in climate, I can personally attest to the fact that environmental factors can play a major role.  I don't use 4627, but I do use several different waxes, 6006 being the most problematic.  When I am in WV making candles, I have to be very careful of my pour temp and cooling process or I have major problems with holes.  However, if I am making the same exact candle when I am in coastal NC, I have virtually no problem with holes without taking any extra steps,.  I don't know exactly what factor is the problem in WV...temp, humidity, altitude, etc.  So, I can only conclude that the suggested pour temps vary by source depending on their specific testing results.  I take them with a grain if salt.  I find this forum to be way more useful due to the availability of so many varying experiences and everyone's willingness to share.

 

(As an aside, there are also differences in the way my candles burn depending on my location.)  

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