JoyPeaceElise Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 Hi all, I have been making soy candles for a year now but have always done so in tins. Now that I have switched to glass jars, I am having an issue where a small sinkhole appears in every candle in the same spot. I tried to heat the jars first and pull them out of the oven RIGHT before I pour, but that hasn't worked. Can anyone give me some advice or other options to try so I can get a solid pour in the glass? I attached another photo of something strange that has never happened before. I used to never have frosting, but now I do. Wax: Nature Wax C-3 Heated to: 180 FO added: 170 (because I read that I am supposed to add it relatively close to flashpoint to help bond?) Pour temp: I have tried several times between 140 and 125 but continue to get the same sinkholes. The photo was poured at 130. Wicks: Eco 10 6" Jar size: 9 oz Thank you so much!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted October 8, 2018 Share Posted October 8, 2018 Looks like it is from uneven cooling. This thread may help https://www.craftserver.com/topic/111969-got-craters-slow-your-cool/ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoyPeaceElise Posted October 9, 2018 Author Share Posted October 9, 2018 @TallTayl Thank you! I will take a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerven Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 (edited) I agree with the uneven cooling. Was there a breeze/air circulating or was the temperature in the room a little low? It looks like the top and bottom set first, the middle didn't. I'm thinking, as the middle cooled it contracted and caused that sink hole. The main purpose for heating the jar is to prevent (or try) wet spots and jump lines, from what I've read. I don't use that technique. Thicker glass will hold the heat longer, especially if heated too high, and that retained heat could theoretically keep the wax from hardening when it should... a slower cool down. Was that candle made with CS Fallen Leaves like those in the other thread? Edit: nevermind. It was 130F. There have been some reports that C3 is behaving a bit differently than before but not to the extent of AAK waxes. Edited October 19, 2018 by Kerven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightLight Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 Try pouring hotter. Pour temp I believe for C3 is 160. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 C3 will develop massive cavities throughout the candle if poured hot and not cooled in a very controlled environment. I have to pour about 105 to prevent cavities and ensure a smooth finish. Jar size and type are influential. I tend to find the smoothed st sides and best adhesion using Warm jars. Stir very very well as wax and FO cool in the pour pot. I find it helps to cool the pot over a fan stirring every few minutes. Works like a charm. Take accurate temps for consistency from batch to batch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoyPeaceElise Posted October 27, 2018 Author Share Posted October 27, 2018 Thank you SO much for this advice! I am going to try your suggestion tonight. Do you have any suggestions for what kind of soy wax does best in glass containers? I will be out of the C3 soon and am looking for something that is a little less trouble. I used it originally because of the recommendation for glass. Thank you!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NightLight Posted January 6, 2019 Share Posted January 6, 2019 C3 is really particular. Try pouring at 160. Also control the temp of your pouring enviroment. It can be fussy. I get perfect pours every time but it’s due to being very diligent with temp. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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