Wick Migration when wax is low

[LightMyCandleCo]

What do you use to secure the wick to glass jars? I have been using hot glue, and using a straw to press them down to the jar. When the wax is low(almost gone) the flame remelts the hot glue causing the wick to slide to the edge of the jar. It doesn’t happen all the time, but once is enough. Should I use something else to secure my wicks?!  I’ve heard of glue dots, epoxy, but I don’t know which is best. Please help! 

 

 

 

 

[GoldieMN]

I use wick stickers.  

GoldieMN

[Trappeur]

Wick stickers

 

Trappeur

[LightMyCandleCo]

Do the wick stickers hold when the candle wax is super low. Like almost gone? Which company do you get them from? 

[GoldieMN]

As long as your container is clean, they will stick.  Once in a great while, I will get a jar that must have some kind of residue in it.  I know as soon as I use the wick sticker as I give my wick a little tug after placing/adhering the wick.  It will come loose then if there is a problem.  

 

I've bought from a few different companies.  Northstar Candle has free shipping, but most candle supply companies have them.

GoldieMN

[Trappeur]

I have never had a problem except 1 time and that was years and years ago with BC but they fixed the problem and stopped selling them till they got their new stickers in.   I order mostly from Flaming.  But I also get them from Lonestar, the Bulk. CS and still BC...I've never had a problem with any of these companies.  When you order the, get the 20mm ones.

 

Trappeur

Edited July 10, 2018 by Trappeur

[Trappeur]

And yes, MAKE SURE that you have either washed the jars or used alcohol to remove any residue/greasy film that a lot of jars come in with  that is on the interior of the glass.  And like Goldie said, give a little tug on the wick after adhering.  After I place my wick on bottom of jar I use a wooden dowel and slide down over the wick and push real firm down on the metal tab.  The after I pull out the dowel, I then take the dowel and go around the metal tab and push down on the edges of the tab all around it...like 6 to 7 times I do.  Most people will use a pen for this same purpose with the guts removed.  I wouldn't think using a straw has much strength to do the same thing as a pen or dowel.  That's my opinion.

 

Trappeur

[moonshine]

I used to use wick stickers and still do for my test candles BUT they are not permanent and do have potential to come loose and slide while burning especially if you get a real hot burning candle - I have heard enough horror stories to now use permatex gasket sealer in all my sale jars - nothing is making that come off and it’s seriously easier and faster to do than wick stickers - you don’t have to do all that pushing down to make sure it’s stuck

A small glob is all that is needed and stick it and when it dries it isn’t moving  - I haven’t even been able to get them loose with pliers hence why I use the stickers still for all my tests 

You can find it in auto or hardware stores and it’s red in color and not expensive - found out about it on here somewhere in a thread 

[grama]

I use the high temp glue sticks and a high watt glue gun &  they hold very good, very seldom does a wick move.  I usually have to put jar on my griddle to loosen the wick.   The multi temp does not hold good at all. 

[Trappeur]

Moonshine...when you use that glue, how long do you wait before your able to pour?  Is it overnight or hours?   I've used that same permatex and yes I agree it is there stuck for good...but did have to wait quite a long time for glue to dry.....

 

Thanks!

 

Trappeur

[Kerven]

Wick stickers are the bane of my candlemaking when a container needs to be reused. Absolutely can not get them to release from the glass, even after freezing. Have to get in there and try to pry it off, which inevitably ends up with the bottom half of the sticker still stuck to the jar. Not to thrilled by how much they lift the wick of the bottom. Unfortunately, they're my go-to when making non-tester candles. I get mine from Candlescience.

 

Had the same melting experience with hot glue (and I'm terrible with hot glue and made a stringy, webby mess). Not doing that again.

 

Oh, permatex! That's what I've been trying to remember for a while now. I knew someone mentioned it here a year or so ago and I made a note to try it but I lost (read: "misplaced") the note and all I could remember was that it was a red adhesive.

 

I think someone also mentioned another product... Aleene's Tack-It Over & Over. Come to think of it, I think I learned about that on a youtube video for diy glue dots. It's supposed to be a tacky adhesive similar to that of glue dots, but all I could find was Aleene's quick dry tacky glue, which dried hard like acrylic.

[TallTayl]

I discovered high temp glue with a little hot pot to dip wick tabs into. No strings and no picking up putting down the gun. My trigger finger was getting tendinitis (no joke). 

 

https://www.menards.com/main/paint/adhesives-glue-tape/glue/glue-guns-glue-sticks/surebonder-reg-4-diameter-40w-glue-skillet/805/p-1444430633156-c-14002.htm?tid=-842603709105402187&ipos=7

‘

 

it uses high temp pellets. Saves me a ton of time wicking tins. That glue is stuck on their tight pretty quickly. No strings either. I tried to set it on fire to make sure it isn’t flammable. Nope it’s not. 

 

when I used wick stickers half the time they’d pull away from the tin. But when they stuck they were on good. I used a heat gun to melt the adhesive and release them. 

 

Permatex red gasket sticks VERY well, but it takes a day to cure it. I just don’t have that kind of time or space to lay out containers to sit for a day. 

 

[Trappeur]

Thats the downfall when I used the red GE gasket silicone, I would have to wait like overnight for it to dry and I don't have that kind of time to wait.  But it sure stuck and I had to get pliers to pull the wick out of jar and it would always leave red glue stuck to the jar after I pulled out wick which I could never fully remove.   But that glue I will say is terrific.

 

TT how does this little pot work?  You put the pellets in and they melt and then you dip your your wick with wick tab attached into the pot?  How can you do this and not have the glue come onto the top of the wick tab or it doesn't matter?

 

How long does it take to dry that you can pour wax into after?

 

Trappeur

Edited July 13, 2018 by Trappeur

[TallTayl]

1 hour ago, Trappeur said:

Thats the downfall when I used the red GE gasket silicone, I would have to wait like overnight for it to dry and I don't have that kind of time to wait.  But it sure stuck and I had to get pliers to pull the wick out of jar and it would always leave red glue stuck to the jar after I pulled out wick which I could never fully remove.   But that glue I will say is terrific.

 

TT how does this little pot work?  You put the pellets in and they melt and then you dip your your wick with wick tab attached into the pot?  How can you do this and not have the glue come onto the top of the wick tab or it doesn't matter?

 

How long does it take to dry that you can pour wax into after?

 

Trappeur

I touch the bottom of the wick tab to the glue. Enough gloppy glue hangs on to the tab that it has plenty to stick to the container. It is cool enough to pull tight within about 15 seconds. It's totally hardened within 2 minutes.  I Wick the tins, clip the clothes pins to hold them taut and pour. Super quick and easy.

 

If I see strings it just needs to heat up a bit more. When heated to temp no strings.

[Candybee]

On 7/11/2018 at 8:50 PM, grama said:

I use the high temp glue sticks and a high watt glue gun &  they hold very good, very seldom does a wick move.  I usually have to put jar on my griddle to loosen the wick.   The multi temp does not hold good at all. 

 

I do the same. Either the high temp glue sticks or the gorilla glue sticks.

[LightMyCandleCo]

Thank you everyone for your feedback!! I decided to try out the gasket sealant. I bought permanex copper high temp. It’s super tacky and can withstand up to 700 degrees. I did some tests and...PROBLEM SOLVED! I think you can only buy this stuff at auto stores like autozone or pep boys. The didn’t carry it at Lowe’s or Home Depot. 

 

Thanks again ❤️

[Bia]

On 7/12/2018 at 6:57 PM, TallTayl said:

I discovered high temp glue with a little hot pot to dip wick tabs into. No strings and no picking up putting down the gun. My trigger finger was getting tendinitis (no joke). 

 

https://www.menards.com/main/paint/adhesives-glue-tape/glue/glue-guns-glue-sticks/surebonder-reg-4-diameter-40w-glue-skillet/805/p-1444430633156-c-14002.htm?tid=-842603709105402187&ipos=7

‘

 

it uses high temp pellets. Saves me a ton of time wicking tins. That glue is stuck on their tight pretty quickly. No strings either. I tried to set it on fire to make sure it isn’t flammable. Nope it’s not. 

 

when I used wick stickers half the time they’d pull away from the tin. But when they stuck they were on good. I used a heat gun to melt the adhesive and release them. 

 

Permatex red gasket sticks VERY well, but it takes a day to cure it. I just don’t have that kind of time or space to lay out containers to sit for a day. 

 

 

do you use the Surebonder skillet/pan blue in pellets? I looked into it and it does not say it's high temperature.  Just want to make sure. 

this is the greatest suggestion!  Thank you!!

[Bia]

On 7/12/2018 at 6:57 PM, TallTayl said:

I discovered high temp glue with a little hot pot to dip wick tabs into. No strings and no picking up putting down the gun. My trigger finger was getting tendinitis (no joke). 

 

https://www.menards.com/main/paint/adhesives-glue-tape/glue/glue-guns-glue-sticks/surebonder-reg-4-diameter-40w-glue-skillet/805/p-1444430633156-c-14002.htm?tid=-842603709105402187&ipos=7

‘

 

it uses high temp pellets. Saves me a ton of time wicking tins. That glue is stuck on their tight pretty quickly. No strings either. I tried to set it on fire to make sure it isn’t flammable. Nope it’s not. 

 

when I used wick stickers half the time they’d pull away from the tin. But when they stuck they were on good. I used a heat gun to melt the adhesive and release them. 

 

Permatex red gasket sticks VERY well, but it takes a day to cure it. I just don’t have that kind of time or space to lay out containers to sit for a day. 

 

 

Also can I use this for glass and ceramic vessels?  I would like the client to be able to remove the wick and tab after candle has burned completely and utilize the jar for something else. Thanks for your help!

[TallTayl]

i threw away my package (grumble grumble). Pretty sure it is this one https://www.menards.com/main/paint/adhesives-glue-tape/glue/glue-guns-glue-sticks/surebonder-reg-skillet-pan-glue-1-lb/b-2001/p-1444430629385-c-14002.htm?tid=5031253741023570089&ipos=11

 

The pellets are pretty white, not tan though as in the description. Softening point is about 200*F

• High strength/superior bonding/minimal stringing
• For use in Surebonder® #805 glue skillet
• 1 pound bag
• Ideal for artificial floral arrangements and various craft projects
• Softening Point: 176°F to 212°F
• Color: light tan

 

I’d give them a good long, hard test in your containers before selling. These definitely are sturdier thank typical glue sticks, but nowhere near permatex tough. I use in tins and am fully satisfied with it for that container.  If a wick wanders a bit in a tin it’s not as much of a deal breaker as in glass. 

 

As an aside, permatex red gasket sealer is available in most auto parts sections of big box stores. Great stuff for when it absolutely positive

y has to stay stuck. 

[TallTayl]

Also, the melt pan has an adapter to use a glue stick.  I know my big box has super high temp glue sticks 

[Sponiebr]

On 7/10/2018 at 11:50 AM, moonshine said:

I used to use wick stickers and still do for my test candles BUT they are not permanent and do have potential to come loose and slide while burning especially if you get a real hot burning candle - I have heard enough horror stories to now use permatex gasket sealer in all my sale jars - nothing is making that come off and it’s seriously easier and faster to do than wick stickers - you don’t have to do all that pushing down to make sure it’s stuck

A small glob is all that is needed and stick it and when it dries it isn’t moving  - I haven’t even been able to get them loose with pliers hence why I use the stickers still for all my tests 

You can find it in auto or hardware stores and it’s red in color and not expensive - found out about it on here somewhere in a thread 

Ok... (YIKES!) Wow! Yeah, um, High temp Permatex will work fine, but it's EXPENSIVE (at least compared to other alternatives). 
And now for the disclaimer:
I DON'T MAKE CANDLES, so you are forewarned. 

I DO make a LOT of other things that have high temps and (ok, I'll just say it: I use non "standard" stuff in fixing cars all the time.) It's the knowing WHERE and WHEN you can use a non standard part or adhesive is really key but knowing WHAT the materials are made of... Oh; that is the real magic.  I really like to approach things like this as though I were a monster sized factory making product "X". How would they go about sticking their tabs into the jars? Why are THEY able to do this and I'm NOT? Unless it's a synthesizing materials situation, I find that 99% of the time I can do it almost exactly the same way that the factory does it. I can just about guarantee that "BIG CANDLE INC" is using a solvent based adhesive to stick wick tabs down (if they stick them down at all).  

If you really want a Type 2 Silicone adhesive to stick your candle wicks down just get a squeeze tube (or get a caulking gun tube if you're in mass production) of clear Type II 100% silicone caulking. It'll work FINE, and a tube will last you probably 10 lifetimes. (You will have to keep it properly sealed and all.) 

Just out of curiosity, why aren't all y'all using a contact cement like "Weldwood"? Yeah, it's got all kinds of nasty solvents in it and junk, but we're talking about a dot in the bottom of the jar and a dot on the tab, not bathing in the stuff like me. I'd do all the jar bottoms in one shot and then do all of the tabs, by the time you are done with the last tab everything will be ready to stick together and BOOM! Yer done.  You could leave them in the sun for a day to gas off if you are concerned about the smell.  (Small disclaimer: rubber can deteriorate over time when used exclusively with petroleum based products *e.g.: paraffin.*)  

Anyway, just thought  I'd offer those alternatives if it could help. Also, if you are going to stay with the Permatex, ( or any of the above suggestions) go with Walmart. I hate them as much as any human, but they DO have the best prices I've ever seen on adhesives. 


HTH!

Cheers,
Sponiebr
The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services

 

[moonshine]

Thanks executor of bad ideas for the ideas 😂

Red gasket sealer in my parts is under 5.00 a tube and lasts a really long time- I didn’t think that was expensive 🤔

 

so this silicone caulking....is that a permanent stick and okay for high temps? I’m not versed in these type of things and went with it based off many on here using it successfully 

[Sponiebr]

45 minutes ago, moonshine said:

Thanks executor of bad ideas for the ideas 😂

Red gasket sealer in my parts is under 5.00 a tube and lasts a really long time- I didn’t think that was expensive 🤔

 

so this silicone caulking....is that a permanent stick and okay for high temps? I’m not versed in these type of things and went with it based off many on here using it successfully 

I went and pulled up the spec sheet for the GE 100% silicone II Window and Door Sealant (The link is below), and it's showing 400F as the maximum temperature for elasticity which is to say that's the maximum that they guarantee it maintaining structural integrity. So, yeah... If your roof gets up to 400F your skylight will stay sealed, the shingles and roof will have slid off, but that skylight will be water tight!----- Dammit! 

Red Permatex RTV's max is 600F continuous. Permatex's claim to fame is that it is supposed to stand up to hot fuel and oil as well as high temperatures. For engines it's required, for candles, meh... Kinda like bringing a Howitzer to a turkey shoot. 
So <$5 for 3 oz. or $4.47 for 10 oz... If it was me, I'd be willing to try it out to see if it was as good as the permatex at least... I'd be willing to bet the clear silicone could withstand the wick burning right down to the tab without any deterioration. The clear would look better at the bottom of a glass jar too, (Y'know if you took the sticker off and actually looked at the bottom of the jar)  

https://www.builditsolar.com/References/Caulks/Silicone II Window &amp; Door - TDS[1].pdf

 

[scrubzz]

Clear silicone caulk is all I have ever used

[birdcharm]

On 7/11/2018 at 7:50 PM, grama said:

I use the high temp glue sticks and a high watt glue gun &  they hold very good, very seldom does a wick move.  I usually have to put jar on my griddle to loosen the wick.   The multi temp does not hold good at all. 

 

I also use a high temp glue gun and it works fine for me.  The glue is set as soon as it's cooled.  I always gently tug on my wicks to make sure they are secure, that way, if I don't have a solid setting, I can redo it if I need to.  I haven't had any issues with the hot glue, btw.