ncraiders Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 I got wick suggestions from a supplier for my container size both single and double wick. Since i new to candle making I am curious what is the best way to start testing the wicks. Would it be best to test a candle without any dye and scent first? Or should I start testing with a candle that has scent and dye? I only have enough fo coming to make one candle in each scent since i did not wanna have fo that i might not like sitting around. I figure it is better to ask more experienced chandlers. I know different people do it different ways but suggestions will help me decide on what i think the best method for me would be. I am sitting here really wanting to make some candles but i have to wait on the order to get here and it went from Texas to Maryland for some reason completely bypassing Missouri were i live. So while i wait i am trying to get any questions i have answered now to lessen the potential screw ups i will probably make testing this wax. All info is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 To better help and understand your questions I suggest you do tell us the following: 1. What brand wax are you using and where from? 2. What jar or jars are you using? Need the size of jar and where you got from. A PICTURE of the jar would be better yet posted here. 3. What style wicks and what size are you going to test out ? for example are you using a cd 10 or eco 12? So you are going to be testing this particular jar with a single wick and also double wicking? 4. What oils do you have coming? The name of the oil and where from? I'm assuming you ordered 1oz samples? What percentage of oil to wax are you doing? Trappeur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncraiders Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 (edited) 6 hours ago, Trappeur said: To better help and understand your questions I suggest you do tell us the following: 1. What brand wax are you using and where from? 2. What jar or jars are you using? Need the size of jar and where you got from. A PICTURE of the jar would be better yet posted here. 3. What style wicks and what size are you going to test out ? for example are you using a cd 10 or eco 12? So you are going to be testing this particular jar with a single wick and also double wicking? 4. What oils do you have coming? The name of the oil and where from? I'm assuming you ordered 1oz samples? What percentage of oil to wax are you doing? Trappeur 1. IGI R2322A Glass Glow Palm Container Wax 10 pounds 2. 16oz Apothecary jar 4" diameter 3 Will be testing CSN wicks both single and double. from CandleScience Single CSN 14 & 16 Double CSN 7 & 9 4. FO: Lilac, Flowering Dogwood, Banana Nut Bread, Apple Cinnamon, Strawberry Kiwi, Honeysuckle, JAPANESE CHERRY BLOSSOM, Monkey Farts(got this one jsut cause of the name😀) Also i have sugar cookie and hot apple pie that was bought for me at a local craft store. i think the brand is Country Lane or something like that All are 1 oz samples. Supplies came coming from Lone Star Candle Supply unless otherwise stated in post. Still waiting to receive them sadly. As far as percentage i figured when i get to that point i would start with 6% since that is pretty much the standard and I have no idea how strong any of the oils will be. I will also be using dye blocks since they were the most economical way of ordering dye to test in with my FO samples. just inccase that matters Edited May 7, 2018 by ncraiders Forgot some Info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Perfect NC! Ok, now I don't use that wax....so I can't even make any suggestions as to wicking, but I know with all the info you gave others will be here to help with suggestions... Good luck and wish you much success! Trappeur 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncraiders Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 Thanks Also as far as the wicks go I bough a CSN sample pack not just those specific sizes. the sizes i listed are whatCS suggested me to srat with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncraiders Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 Since i am making candles for myself and maybe some family later on. I don't plan to make unscented non-dyed candles should i still test the candles without dye and scent in them first? I did find some info on the forums about candle development but it did make me wonder if i need to do that step since i am not selling candles or using candles without dye or fo. I imagine this question is probably dependent on the person but all info is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncraiders Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 8 hours ago, Trappeur said: Perfect NC! Ok, now I don't use that wax....so I can't even make any suggestions as to wicking, but I know with all the info you gave others will be here to help with suggestions... Good luck and wish you much success! Trappeur I didn't notice till just now but i wasn't really asking for wicking help in general i was actually trying to figure out the general way to test candles in general. like if i should start with uncolored/unscented candles even tho i don't plan on making any like that for myself or my family. Or if i could skip that part without causing myself more work in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichelleinMD Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 Hey! I work with palm wax and it sounds like you are on the right path regarding wicks and such to get to the stage of testing candles. When I have tested candles I have done them without oils or dyes because - in my opinion, you want to check to see what will be the best wick to use for your jar. Things to look for is tunneling in the wax, mushrooming/smoke, how steady the flame burns - is it too high or two small of a flame, does it create soot or discoloration (even if the candle doesn't have any dye), etc. With your first candle I would burn it for 2-4 hours - however long it takes for the pool of wax to get to the edge of the glass and take notes whether it does or not and how long it takes. Based on your notes on the performance of the candle then you can tweak it to make it burn better say experiment with two smaller wicks or go up in the next size. Once you have found the right wick, then you can experiment with oils and dyes. I just find it less wasteful/more cost effective to start with no dye and scents. Good luck!!! In case you are looking for some sources for wicks and such, I created an ingredient and equipment checklist (totally free and easy to download) - with resource guide of places that sell candle making supplies, they may help as you start to search for more suppliers for various items.... Here's the link https://bit.ly/2s1GBTy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 On 5/7/2018 at 4:57 PM, ncraiders said: Since i am making candles for myself and maybe some family later on. I don't plan to make unscented non-dyed candles should i still test the candles without dye and scent in them first? I did find some info on the forums about candle development but it did make me wonder if i need to do that step since i am not selling candles or using candles without dye or fo. I imagine this question is probably dependent on the person but all info is appreciated. Makes absolutely no difference if you are selling or not. I really hate when the whole ‘I don’t sell so is it worth it to learn my wax’ defense comes up. It does you a disservice to brush off learning the basics. Making a naked candle to learn your wax is worth it every time. Palm wax can vary lot to lot just like ay other wax. Fragrances impact the burn in so many ways you will never know where your baseline is which compounds future problems, meaning you will waste exponentially more supplies and MONEY. At least of your wicking is off on naked tests you can just melt it down and start again. Not so with scent and dyes added since the various components will not reheat well. Plus with uncolored and unscented Wax you can easily see if the wick Choice discoloration the wax without the added variables of dye or fo - each of which can discolor the melt pool. 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncraiders Posted May 25, 2018 Author Share Posted May 25, 2018 On 5/23/2018 at 10:25 PM, TallTayl said: Makes absolutely no difference if you are selling or not. I really hate when the whole ‘I don’t sell so is it worth it to learn my wax’ defense comes up. It does you a disservice to brush off learning the basics. Making a naked candle to learn your wax is worth it every time. Palm wax can vary lot to lot just like ay other wax. Fragrances impact the burn in so many ways you will never know where your baseline is which compounds future problems, meaning you will waste exponentially more supplies and MONEY. At least of your wicking is off on naked tests you can just melt it down and start again. Not so with scent and dyes added since the various components will not reheat well. Plus with uncolored and unscented Wax you can easily see if the wick Choice discoloration the wax without the added variables of dye or fo - each of which can discolor the melt pool. Thanks I have been doing wick testing with naked candles. Figured that was the best way to go. I did end up with 3 candles that did not burn fully so i remelted the wax and had already poured that along with new wax into some more test candles before i read this. I Really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question as well as giving me a good reason as to why i should test naked candles like i started doing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 My wish is for every chandler’s learning curve to be as short and inexpensive as possible. Shortcuts invariably mean longer learning curve and loads of excess $$. At least with palm you know within a few days of your candle will make it or not. Unlike soy and blends that require weeks, so good choice on that wax!! Plus I love how pure the scent is with palm. Cold and hot the fragrance shines instead of the wax. ❤️❤️ The stability is the third rung of why I love palm. Your candles won’t continually change over time, making you wonder if you’ve lost your mind 😬. Wicking for summer versus winter is the same. The list goes on and on. Now to find that elusive non crystallizing palm wax so people don’t get all freaked about palm looking so different. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncraiders Posted May 25, 2018 Author Share Posted May 25, 2018 I love glass glow palm. i thought about palm pillars but my only 2 options there is feather palm and crystal palm and i am nut sure how i would like either of those. I wish glass glow was in a pillar form as i absolutely love it. Even in a naked candle they look beautiful. My mom saw me test burning the candles in my room and loved them as well. My dad wants some wax melt made for him to use so i might end up buying some of the feather palm wax when i go dto order more glass glow. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcandleattic Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 2 hours ago, TallTayl said: Now to find that elusive non crystallizing palm wax so people don’t get all freaked about palm looking so different. LOL I know I've only been doing palm now for about a little over a year, however, most people I know love the look of palm, and never get freaked out over it. They just want to know why it's so much prettier than other wax/candles. (at least that's the only question I've gotten from anyone) 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncraiders Posted June 3, 2018 Author Share Posted June 3, 2018 Ok the wick test for the size 16 CSN was a failure. It did use a good amount of wax and has probably a 1/8 of an inch shell left after the final burn. So for a single wick you would need a 18 to cleanup all the wax from the jar. i found the melt pool depth to be around 1/4 inch or so the entire burn. In 2 more days i will begin the dual wick testing with CSN 7 and 9. The 16 will work if you don't want all the wax to be cleaned up off the sides of the jar. A CSN 18 probably would of been perfect but for whatever reason we do not have the CSN-18 for sale in the U.S. They only place i can find the size 18 was a site that ships from somewhere around China. So onto dual wicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarah S Posted June 3, 2018 Share Posted June 3, 2018 I searched back through the forum on palm wax, and came up with a lot of great stuff. One palm user stated she likes to have a very thin shell through the whole burn on her containers so she can enjoy the pattern throughout. I thought that was interesting. I poured my testers last night! I did the flip after two hours with no problems, yay!! I'm leaving them flipped until I get home from work this afternoon, but what is the minimum time I should generally leave the containers flipped? Is 12 hours enough? I want them to be completely cool and solidified, yes? They look so beautiful! I'm so excited to burn them, but I am going to try to wait a week, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncraiders Posted June 3, 2018 Author Share Posted June 3, 2018 I wait till i feel no heat at all in the candle before i flip it back over. Can't say as i have waited 2 hours to flip mine. I keep a close eyte on the top shell and flip it as soon as the shell is sturdy enough that i can put a tiny bit of pressure on it without it giving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncraiders Posted June 3, 2018 Author Share Posted June 3, 2018 Yeah the CSN-16 give the candle a top to bottom glow the entire burn which some people like. I still wanna test to see which way i prefer it. plus the other issue is that if fo changes and requires a wick up that is not possible from a size 16 so regardless i need to test dual wicks. I am thinking of also testing CD wicks after this as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncraiders Posted June 6, 2018 Author Share Posted June 6, 2018 OK started test burning with dual CSN 7 & 9 wicks both had full melt pools in 2.5 hours or less. I found that no matter the size of wick i can't wick the jar to do what i want with CSN wicks the best one that allows the wax to glow like it is meant to is the CSN616. I will pour more test candles with CD wicks this weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarah S Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 My tests have begun! Wow, this is soooo different from the CBL 125! I have been spoiled! I have a naked tester and a colored and fragranced tester going at the same time, because I wanted to see what this wax does as is, and I was so curious about the color and throw I just couldn’t wait! I think I have my baseline wick for one of my containers. It’s tricky to get the right size for a good melt pool but leave a little shell for the glow! I actually really like how the 12 looks in both of those. First burn. Thats at the end of the 3rd burn, 4 hours long. I’d like a little more of a shell, but the CSN 9 had too thick of a shell and the wick was drowning. Throw is so-so, but heck, I’m only one week into this wax! 🤣 I love this wax so much! This is the third burn, one hour in. I’m going to do a couple more test with the CSN 9 in this container before I rule it out. The 12 is pretty hot. Thoughts?? This is the 8oz tumbler from EAP, 2.5” opening. Holds about 5oz wax with some headroom. I would love some feedback! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncraiders Posted June 10, 2018 Author Share Posted June 10, 2018 I find the lack of in between wick sizes in CSN kinda sad especially since oversees they get a few more sizes than we do. they get an 11 and an 18 size wick. I am getting ready to start testing using another wick series so that i might get a better burn seeing as my jar is to big for a single wick and not wide enough for a dual wick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ladymvb Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 On 6/2/2018 at 9:25 PM, ncraiders said: Ok the wick test for the size 16 CSN was a failure. It did use a good amount of wax and has probably a 1/8 of an inch shell left after the final burn. So for a single wick you would need a 18 to cleanup all the wax from the jar. i found the melt pool depth to be around 1/4 inch or so the entire burn. In 2 more days i will begin the dual wick testing with CSN 7 and 9. The 16 will work if you don't want all the wax to be cleaned up off the sides of the jar. A CSN 18 probably would of been perfect but for whatever reason we do not have the CSN-18 for sale in the U.S. They only place i can find the size 18 was a site that ships from somewhere around China. So onto dual wicks. i tried csn 14, 12, 10 , and 8 and the flame was really tall in all if them i didnt have any 6 or 4 tp try i tried the flip method but i dont know why that scares me so much i am going to try the relief hole method Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncraiders Posted June 11, 2018 Author Share Posted June 11, 2018 23 minutes ago, Ladymvb said: i tried csn 14, 12, 10 , and 8 and the flame was really tall in all if them i didnt have any 6 or 4 tp try i tried the flip method but i dont know why that scares me so much i am going to try the relief hole method CSN wicks have a tall flame that is just a characteristic of the wicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichelleinMD Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 Did you make sure the wick was not more than 1/4 inch when burning it? I always trim them at 1/4 inch once cooled and when burning them for my own pleasure. Without seeing photos I am not sure what you are doing other than making sure the wicks are trimmed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ladymvb Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 yes i have a wick trimmer so it was cut 1/4 maybe im just not used to the tall flames. i may try them again thanks eveyone so far im loving the palm wax Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ladymvb Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 heres a picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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